forgeman

hello, your anvil is a Trenton . It is a blacksmith style anvil , not a farriers pattern . The weight being on the front foot is common to Trentons , Hay-Buddens had the weight marks on the side . hope this helps , Forgeman

hello, i sent you a private message
thanks , Forgeman

nice find Gauge, mouseholes are good anvils. welcome aboard Forgeman

the ones I have been using for hammers are what they call 42crmo which is similar to 4140 forgeman

millwright / welder/ pipefitter/ industrial mechanic / master plumber

I would add some more to it and get a bigger power hammer Forgeman

most leaf springs are 5160. forgeman

nice hammers. forgeman

happy birthday forgeman

Steve Sells , 7018 rods are dc . they make ac7018s but to me they don't run as good . If it was me I would go with the ac/dc machine. Forgeman

I use e7018 most of the time however I also use 6010 on dirty metal . I have repaired a few anvils with 12018 and have used 11018 also . 7018 is a dc rod but they do make an ac 7018 but it does not run as well . Forgeman

Making a couple of hammers for our blacksmith club Christmas party Forgeman

JHM anvils are not ductile iron they are cast steel and are heat treated to a face hardness of 50rc not work hardened. They are the finest anvil made in the US.

emerson anvils are cast steel , 4140 to be exact. they are of good quality and would be a good anvil in my opinion , Forgeman

hey Frosty, You make some really good points for all of us to ponder on . However one moments carelessness does not necesarily mean the guy is unsafe in anything he does . He probably gets the point now that he screwed up . Lets cut him a little slack , everyone else will be afraid to post any of there screwups for fear of a frosty thrashing . that will hurt us all .Forgeman

hello, you are a lucky fellow , a 200 lb trenton is one of my favorite anvils , i have two of them set up in my shop and they are really good anvils. now to the anvil repair , first you need to determine what you have . the early trentons had forged wrought iron or mild steelbodies they used both based on cost and supply , these bodies were then topped with a steel face plate. most of the time when these anvils are damaged peices of the top plate are broken off and you can see the mating line easily . the later trentons used tool steel for the whole top half of the anvil and there was no need for a top plate .when these anvils are damaged there are chips broken off the edges and there is no mating line present . next you must decide how to repair it . alot of people will tell you to use a hard surface rod . but it has been my experience with this type of rod that although it is hard it will chip out because it will not take the pounding of the hammer . it is so hard that it does not have any flexibility and it seperates from the base metal . I like to use LH12018 and run stringer beads to fill up the voids this rod is harder and tougher than LH7018 but still has enough flexability to stay adhered to the base metal which is soft and will move under a lot of use . that is the reason a lot of the older anvils that have seen a lot of use are swaybacked. another concern is to heat the anvil a little bit before welding but not let it get to hot and ruin the temper in the rest of the top plate . I have repaired several anvils this way ,including my 200 lb trenton , and the repairs are holding up really well under some serious forging . this is just my opinion on anvil repair maybe some of the other guys have a better way. good luck Forgeman

use the anvil just like it is especially since you have another one with a horn . there are many uses for the table of the anvil good luck Forgeman

hey Pete, when the people that are asking what is that start saying hey thats neat make me one , you know you are getting there .. keep hammerin Forgeman

hey doc , by all means use the anvil. if it is indeed a (CRAPPY)anvil time will tell . use it until it is no longer useable then retire it and get another one

hey doc , me again , cast iron is noticeably harder than wrought iron . wrought is soft and easily marked with punch or chisel forgeman

hey doc , one way to tell the difference between cast steel and cast iron is the ring when the anvil is struck . cast steel anvils will ring when struck, not like a hay budden usually but still a noticeable ring . a cast iron anvil will be more of a thunk . that is why cast iron anvils are called dead anvils .hope this helps .Forgeman

hello, you anvil is what is refered to as a no name cast. it is made out of cast iron not steel . Vulcans are also cast iron with a steel plate welded to the top just like a fisher .forgeman

I am right handed and point the horn to the left but I also circle the anvil as needed

hello rainsfire , I know what you mean , I have rescued a few from the elements also from the guy that uses an anvil for a place to cut steel with a torch and leaves torch tracks across the face . by the way , anvils are not that hard to find . You can buy 10 a day off of E-bay ........if you have got the money lol

whats up doc ? nice job on the anvil repair . i have repaired many in the same way, except i use 7018 on the horn and 12018 on the sides of the hardened steel face plate . it holds up pretty well . I will have to disagree with you however , on the subject of anvil collectors . there are many many people collecting anvils and I have seen several old beaters bring more than brand new ones . I have nearly 100 anvils myself . and know of several people with several hundred anvils in there collection