Loneforge

That is a nice surprise....Keep us posted on the finished piece.....we love pics.

Cut off a small piece from that spring and first test to see if it air hardening,,,,,if so you will have to anneal in order to drill if you plan to make a full tang....Forge on and be safe.

That's not messing around is it? 

Nice!

Your work inspires me Zigmund. I don't know how you are getting some of the patterns but that will come time and experience, I'm in the process of collecting parts to build a forging press so the experiments can get more detailed. Thanks again for sharing your work, beautiful indeed! :)

Thanks so much guys. 

Once again.......Elegant work! What do you do in your spare time????

Well done Chris....sweet job

Beautiful

Flames pattern is way cool! Nice job

Nice steel.......Bam! Thanks for sharing.

That Handle is pretty. Sure love to see the blade in better light. I bet we'd love it even more then! Nudge Nudge!

Late model cars and trucks used 5160 for leaf springs.....5160 will make a good knife. As well as coil springs.....most usually 1084ish.....will also make good knives. If you are unsure of your spring materials shop testing will determine it's worthiness as a knife steel. And I will gladly be paid to take anyone's leaf springs.......Just one opinion. ;)

Very nice work there. I agree with above post that recommends using High Carbon steel. Your work deserves to be put into something that has good knife qualities. HC spikes don't have enough carbon to do the job you want.....do yourself a favor and forge on good known steels......Your knives will thank you. Keep at it!

52100 is hard forging unless you keep it hot......And I like forging with anything so I'm not sure how to answer that one. :) As far as tips are concerned take a close look at the knife I forged and finished and then read the posts from John at Gearhart Iron works. If I had 5/8 bar stock I would have forged an integral.

I have a buddy who uses them when he hikes and does not want to carry a pack or a large knife. He said it's a great place to have it when you're squeezing through tight stuff while Hiking.....Sounded logical to me.

Thanks John, much appreciated. Your kitchen knives are well done and I will keep these things in mind as I make the next one. It's easy to make a knife.....not so easy to make good ones. Any and all tips or critiques I get only get me further in my journey to "Almost Excellent". Up until now I didn't know what an Eviscerate was.....Thanks again John.

Darren.

John I see what yer saying about the blade transition and thanks for the tip. The bolster does protrude slightly above and below the shoulders of the tang, it is also tapered towards the blade so it has no harsh edges. Are you saying it should flow right in the blade? 

That's a brute.....did you cold forge the NS?

Not sure what you mean Rockstar? I appleseed ground the right side so food falls away from the blade instead if sticking....The flat side is ground with a primary bevel....the appleseed side is ground right to the edge. Does this answer your question?

Thanks, Darren

Thanks guys. Much appreciated.

I anneal before attempting to drill. 

52100 kitchen knife with nickle silver guard,nickle and black spacers with dyed Buckeye burl. Ground appleseed on the right, flat on the left. Thanks for looking.

That's right cool!

Sand sand sand buff and then buff some more! Then resand and buff again.