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Loneforge

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Posts posted by Loneforge

  1. SOMpXr2.jpg?1

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    W2 tool steel with dyed yellow box elder. Last pic was taken previous to polishing out. Almost always a booboo or two to fix after the logo goes on so I don't waste the time anymore. :)  Thanks for looking.

  2. Hey Swords ....you want a kitchen knife to be nice and hard. It does need any toughness as it will never be abused such as a hunting or a camp knife. In this case I temper at 400F to ensure you remove the brittleness but retain all of the hardness you can! 2 cycles at 400 works for me....but then again this is your shop. Keep them coming.

  3. Rhitee if you see that shadow again when forging up a billet....before the unrelenting hammer blows try driiling a small hole in the center of the void. If it is a flux inclusion it may correct itself if it has a place to go.....Are you seeing what I'm saying here. :)

  4. I have done a pile of research and have had a lot of help from others. Choosing steels that etch differently is the key to a good contrast. I also try to use steels that are close in Heat Treat properties and forging temps. All of this is already known. 1095 and 15N20 have similar growth rates, forging temps and HT properties. So In short I have had great success with these steels, therefore I don't stray too far with my pattern welds.

    Thanks a lot for the positive feedback.....and Oh... most of what was asked above can be answered by reading through knife lessons right here on IFI.

  5. I scribe a center line on the blade edge and make even passes. When you grind toward the plunge line remember it is cutting on the way in and out.....you will be grinding more here every time. Try to get in and out quickly and go slower through the rest of blade. I also use a push stick. If you travel quicker to and from the plunge cuts you will get more even results and possibly eliminate that 2 inchitis! Hope this make sense to ya!

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