InFire

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I agree with the general consensus. Do not heat treat power hammer tooling. It’s meant to work HOT metal, and it makes high speed UFO’s flying out from between your dies a lot less likely. Find steel you have easy access to and learn how to forge it and what processes it functions best at. The tools that require a higher quality steel such as a hack or the dog bone type cutoff you saw in Clifton Ralph’s tapes still only require toughness. Try locating some S or H series steel for any thin section tools that will have prolong contact with hot steel and make several of each. If the one you’re using is getting too hot, lay it aside and grab another. Punches are another example where it makes sense to use a good quality steel. I’ve used high speed cutting tools from lathes for punches and they will have little or no deformation after several punchings. I suppose there is some process that might require tooling to be heat treated but to date I don’t have any tooling that goes between the dies of a power hammer that’s been heat treated. Oops, I think I need to make an exception with the S and H series steel. Simply by heating it to a forging temp and letting them cool will toughen the steel. Forging and using air hardening steels does require some practice to get the best results. Again, I stress toughness not hardness when it comes to power hammer tooling. You’re also going to have to learn to weld to any type of steel that you use. Each type will need to be stress relieved after welding and often you will need to pre-heat to get the best results. The best way to avoid the problems with welding is to forge the tool in one piece if possible. Reduces the possibility of stress cracks and you get to spend more time using your new hammer.

I forged more copper than bronze. Copper is far more forgiving but not usefull for any application where structural integrity would be a critical factor. Bronze, whatever the alloy, you'll find it is expensive and finicky to work. Having said that, my expeirience is that every forging is a little different. Sillica bronze forges smooth and has allmost as wide a working range as copper. Aluminum bronzes that I have worked have a narrow working range and are difficult in thin sections. Naval bronzes can vary quite a bit in the alloying percentages which means that you have to take a piece of your supply and play with it before committing your self. Nickle bronzes that I've worked have been pretty forgiving and have the highest working range of any of the alloys, and are the best where structural integrity is critical. Whatever type you choose you will need to spend time and material to get to know what the forging characteristics are, when to anneal it. what it looks like when it's stressed etc. It's frustrating to have hours into a piece and have it break apart because you didn't anneal it properly, got it too hot, or hit it too cold. In the end the results can be very rewarding.

I've used one of the Lawler built treadle hammers for years. The only issue I've had is with the guide bearings coming apart, but that is only after years of use. Keep in mind that the Clay Spencer design is available at the ABANA website for a reasonable price. If you don’t have the time or wherewithal to build your own the Mark is a good choice, It is the one tool that once you have one in the shop you’ll be kicking yourself for not having done it years ago. I couldn’t imagine being without mine.

InFire I have some experience setting up Liitle Giants and training them to behave. If you like you can send me an e-mail and we can discuss a time. I won't be able to make the trip until sometime in April. What style of hammer do you have and what kind dies are in it?