Daniel.85

Very cool, I like the handle! I had thought about doing some laminate handles, I know the wood glue forms a bond stronger than wood and what not, how do you think it would hold up on a heavy use tool?

Very nice, you're going to have lots of fun in there.

150lb KZ power hammer, I wont actually have it till mid October though. Id like to add a self contained later or an Iron kiss since I have the air supply already.

Doesn't get much better than that.

It would run a little slower on just 15amp but still nice for smaller stuff. A 30amp 240v plug would be the most common for garage/shop use on a hobby level so were kinda working with that more, Ive got mine on a 50amp plug right now.

Under $2000 yes.

I started this thread over a year ago though, its progressed a lot since then but its still going to be a little bit.

What I'd LIKE to do is extend the whole shop 10ft and add another big door on that end lol, but ya I'll probably add some windows before too long.

Nick, no real reason, it was cheaper I guess and my last shop didn't have any... I may add a couple sometime if I need to.

I will probably do a drain like DSW mentioned, my compressor has an easy drain valve already and I would just need to extend the tube outside. I'll make some kind of baffle for the air intake and run it inside the shop so I wont be taking in as much moisture as if I ran it outside.

No lean-to David, my forge doesn't put off heat :) I will make some sort of small fume extractor/vent to draw away from whatever I'm heating in the coil.

A ducted ventilation system for the shop will be done sometime too, once I cut a hole to get back into the attic, I want to do something that will cycle the air pretty fast since I don't have windows, keeping my eye on Craigslist for big squirrel cage fans.

haha, thanks, Im trying to do as much as I can on my own to save money and make it look as nice as possible(obsessive planning helps) so that I can focus on actually forging again soon.

Quick video, I am using the breaker to turn the compressor on and off, once the door is shut just listen for the breaker flip and that's when the compressor is going if you cant hear it well enough :)

Quiet room for my compressor, the entire thing is insulated and has 5/8" sheetrock on both sides. I will add ventilation through the attic if I need to later.

I framed a wall-door thing, I may shop around for a real door some day...

I will put a video up of how quite it makes it.

Built a desk and a stock rack from with some ladder rack my brother gave me and leftover wood from the shop build, the only thing I had to buy was the bolts to hold it together. I can hold up to 10ft barstock which is good for me.

Still needs sanding and a clear coat.

20" Drill press makes it easy!

Cutting the horizontal support bars.

It is anchored to the wall studs with long screws as well in 10 spots.

Total cost was just under $20, its heavy and works great.

I've been busy...

R13 insulation

44 12ft sheets of 5/8" sheetrock, I had 7 extra when it was done and used some of that on the quiet room for the air compressor.

Painted and Lights hung

1x4x12 cedar for some cheap trim

Starting some shelves, 1x12x12 with about 13" between, wouldn't want to waste wall space!

Little shelf up in the back.. and a safety sign!(keeps my wife happy)

More shelves

This is that red sign on the wall, though it would be cool with my drill presses.

Finally plugged the old induction forge into the new shop just to make sure it didn't get broken in the move. Turns out my old house/shop wasn't wired very well and that was the cause of the oscillation and low power on this particular unit compared to when we used it at my brothers house.

It runs amazing in the new shop, here is a quick video heating a 1/2" bar from cold, keep in mind this is only running on 120 and it heats a 3-4" section up to sparking in about 12-13 seconds.

DSW, that is the most constructive criticism I think I have ever received, lol! I thought I did a pretty good job till I read that, Im a little embarrassed by my rebar work now. In my defense I did know about rebar helping when concrete is in a situation were flexing would occur and I didn't imagine this hammer doing much of that to the block so I just did something based off of what I had seen others do. The wire was kind of a last minute thought as well, figured I would just stick it in. I was in a bit of a rush and didn't research it as much as I normally would have.

I would have used water when cutting but I was indoors around my new drywall and using an abrasive blade, so I didn't and it was awful for sure, I had a good filter mask so I wouldn't die.

Thanks for noticing the neat and clean part at least and thanks for taking the time to explain all of that, I agree with everything you said and wish I had read it before I poured, but I think it will still work great for me.

I planned on just drilling holes for anchors just to keep it from moving around, since I did not have an exact template for the hammer as it is still being built at the moment. Nathan Robertson has had his unbolted for almost a year, uses it heavier than I probably will and it has only moved about an inch. For what I do I felt that this would be plenty and I don't think this hammer will exert the same types of loads that a Massey would.

Yes

Well..almost, just some teasing pictures for now.

2.5'x3.5'x3'

Hmm, offset or straight..

Need a bigger hammer.. I thought if I cut some grid lines I could break it up easy. Cutting concrete is awful though.

Maybe 30min with the jackhammer

My blue shop vac..

There is a bit of clay in the dirt here so I used some to smash around the sides and hold in the gravel, worked well.

3ft deep!

Lines..just cause

9 circuits total for now, I will add more as I need. I had to order some 4/3 online for the induction circuit, wasn't easy to find locally.

I have the 120v receptacles split in to 3 circuits, North(4 outlets), West(3 outlets) and South(4 outlets), the lights, a/c and 240v outlets are each separate as well.

Ya I might check out some options for the sleeving, although its not really a necessary thing at all.

Woefully busy is it. My shop is almost done though, drywall going up tomorrow and in about an hour an engineer from the power company is coming over to see about running a separate 200amp service straight to the shop. The meter box is ready for them to plug right in to, just need the trench and line ran.

I'm not sure if its available here but I'm going to ask him about 3 phase as well.

I need to rent a concrete saw today as well and cut a 2.5x3.5ft rectangle and after the drywall guys leave tomorrow, dig down a 3-5ft.

The induction project is far from dead though, still very anxious to get it all going again.

Here you can see the gravel a little.

Handy truck power

Completed.......150...................

Ive not seen it in person but it seems the price of this class would be worth it just because you get to play in Larrys shop. I know I cant make it but I'm sure it will be a full class, hopefully we will get to see pictures and finished hammers.

Refflinghaus, Fontanini, Peddinghaus, Hoffman, JHM, Nimba...... Im sure there are some more...

To be more specific you said modern "forged" I think Peddinghaus is the only forged one now.... most others are cast, but modern casting can produce exceptional anvils.

A quick internet search can answer most of your anvil questions before needing to make a new thread.