psilogen

It's been a while since I've posted as I've been living 1000 miles from my poor anvil for 6 months, but I'm heading back to her in 3 weeks. This is a great idea, and I'll certainly contribute as many leaves as I can get away with. It'll be great to be back at the forge, and even better to kick off a reunion with the steel by helping out a worthy cause. Best wishes to everyone affected by the tragedy, and best wishes as well to everyone who's putting their time and hammer blows into this project.

I never met Tom, but I hope he finds safe passage now to wherever it is he's going. It's always a shame when the community loses a valued member, but thanks to the knowledge he shared, he'll live on through every hammer blow of the people he's mentored.

As already noted, a hand fuller or a handled/set fuller can be placed with more precision than using an integrated one. Spring fullers and guillotines fitted with fullers can be used with great precision -- even without great hammer control.

This is my first thought. Fullering with a hammer works fine if you're trying to make a shovel or a leaf, where you want to be able to really guide the material around in a natural way. However, if you're making the post for a hardy from thicker stock, a spring fuller will allow you to place a shoulder at the same spot on all four sides, making the drawing process much easier and neater. Same goes for any number of other applications where symmetry and accuracy beyond that which can be achieved by a hammer (dependent on the user) is necessary.

I know my limitations when it comes to accuracy. There's a lot I can do with a hammer, but there ain't much I can do with a pein that can't be done better by a stationary fuller.

I'll never understand why people paint anvils.

forgive the thread necromancy, but there's something I've been wondering, and I figured it wasn't worth a new thread.

How on earth do you get the mandrel out after welding the barrel? What material is the mandrel typically made from? I've got the Foxfire book but I think it's still at home in MN.

you can call those pliers and their value increases!

I read that book recently, it was great. I got a little excited any time he started talking about smithing when I could predict where he'd go next in the conversation.

I started working at a historic site because I didn't want to go to college and I had some connections, and there I started migrating more towards the shops area than the marching field. I've made a couple nail headers, a tomahawk, hundreds of nails, and plenty of s-hooks, among other things. It was a little tough working with 1820s tools, and I never did learn drop-tong welds or much heat treating, but it was a good start. Now I'm going back to school and hopefully I can come out with enough education to get a job where I can afford a house far away from homeowners' associations and other weaklings, so I can build a shop in the back yard.

Here's a shot of one of my trinket items - Iron worry stones

Made from 3/4" x 1" mild steel plugs left over from a punching process.

Flatten them down under my air hammer then grab whatever is in the studio (bolts, washers, welding wire etc.) to impress a pattern.

I charge 3 bucks apiece or 3 or more for 2.50 ea.

Kids and adults love em'.

this is an excellent use of scrap. I like the fact that each one is unique

Here a a couple of my favorite ones.

dang, were the edges chiseled? this one is stellar

I am happy for the guy with 1000 anvils , he worked or his ancestors worked and made some money and he is spending it on what he likes , (way to go ) .

I can somewhat respect his accomplishment if he worked his whole life in order to snag those anvils, but if he's buying with daddy's trust fund or a massive inheritance, then he may as well just be some schmo who won the lottery and said "gee golly, I really like them iron blocks, I better get 'em all!"

That's disappointing. My only anvil is a William Foster, and the only spot that rings is the heel. I guess I paid too much after all.

Could the half-attached chip in the side of the anvil be absorbing the sound energy, or is it pretty much guaranteed to be delaminated?

Yes, good point. I'd like to be the guy turning out unique and complex parts for crazy research projects rather than just being one step in a mass-production line, but I guess that means I'll have to get really good, and keep up on my reading. What parts of the country tend to have the most stable employment in the field?

I'm moving to Colorado because there's nothing here for me in the winter, and I'm hoping to go into CNC machining so I can get an interesting and well-paid job and still have the energy to come home after work and accomplish things at the forge (or work on my car or teach myself this or that). What advice can you offer to a budding machine tool operator? Jobs/tasks to avoid, supplemental classes to take, where to go from there?

We've got a side draft, and to be honest I'm not much of a fan. Ours isn't designed very well though, it's just got a three inch pipe leading in that got burnt back within a week, and a flat square firepot, also with no clear-out mechanism. Because the air comes in from the side, the hotspot is fairly irregular, and only symmetrical when viewed from the front of the forge, rather than the side where I work. It may be that I don't know much about fire-tending though, which is definitely possible, and the pipe issues probably contribute heavily to the main problems. We're also burning charcoal rather than stone coal, so YMMV.

what a horrible man. almost 20 bucks a pound for an old wrought anvil (with a chip on the edge!)? I always hate to hear about anvils possessed by people who don't deserve them. This is worse than people spraypainting them and putting 'em in some landscaping, because at least those people are likely to part with the anvils for what seems like a lot of money to the uninitiated, but which isn't really that much.

Man, I've forged in 100 degree Arkansas weather in early August, and that was bad enough. You'd have to pay me to bring a forge to Burning Man. It would be great to go there without any production obligations, though.

consumerism would be great if the average person had any taste

looking good - it's hard to tell from the picture, but, if you haven't, be sure to dress the punches with a file or grinder. if you've got sharp edges around the flat punching end, it will better cut out a plug of metal instead of just spreading it out like a drift

and I haven't set mine up yet, so I can't be sure, but I think you'll want much heavier chain around the anvil to dampen the ring

Bentiron, at least the wound is self-cauterizing!

Outsider, I understand and admire the spirit of getting as much as you can out of your setup. I used a blow dryer on my first extra-curricular forging, and while it did work, all the heating element did was constantly trip the circuit. Practical experience is highly valuable in transit.

The mushroomed chisel is a good cautionary tale. Knee injuries are nothing to scoff at. I'm not sure about you guys, but I use my knees a lot during a normal day. Even during a lazy day.

huh thats odd i wonder why mine weighs more than 100 pounds then

It is clearly infused with forge magic, which is dragged into existence by the long suffering of a workhorse anvil under useful blows.

I've worked in a modern shop a little bit, and I can say that I would love to have a disc and belt sander, and an oxy-acetylene setup. Whenever I find myself a semi-permanent place to live and some shop space, those are probably first on the list, along with a drill press. Punching holes isn't glamorous enough to justify the hassle, in my mind. Drawing, tapering, welding, bending, on the other hand...

As far as bandsaws are concerned, I'm told that you're not likely to find one that does both horizontal and vertical operations equally well for any useful value of "well", but there may be models out there that work satisfactorily in both configurations. I have not done any independent research, due to the time period of my usual work and my available funds and space.

Also, I think it is really hard to go wrong with a MIG as long as you learn to use it well. It makes short work of many long tasks.

plus, why waste the electricity. cold-air-fed charcoal gets hot enough to anything you could need

A perhaps related question: I have an 1841 William Foster with a great face, but some rough edges. No chunks out, but they are peppered with small chips. Will enough forging safely round off these edges (assuming safety glasses, etc) while minimizing loss of steel, or is it better to quickly buzz a flap disc over them before doing any shouldering or similar work? I'm leaning towards the flap disc, but I'd obviously like to leave as much steel as possible, since the old girl ain't gonna heal herself of my damages.