brynnb

Thanks for the helpful replies, especially FieryFurnace. As I mentioned in the original post - I was exhausted. Outdoors in the heat for 3 hours, I was in the middle of grinding a piece after class when my instructor approached me and gave me directions. It was straight forward at the time and I normally don't have any issue remembering something like that - but again, exhausted and distracted and no note taking material on me at that precise second. Lesson learned. I appreciate those who felt the need to address this and were polite about it.

I need to harden and temper a round punch, but I don't remember exactly what my instructor told me to do (I was exhausted and was trying to remember other stuff when he told me). I think it was like: 1. Heat in forge, tip in first, until non-magnetic 2. Quench the bottom half in oil (the side with the tip, not the handle) 3. Put in oven at broil until a certain color 4. ??? don't remember the rest Anyone got instructions on how to best do this? They're made of tool steel but the exact type I do not know.

Some people have mentioned putting a layer of paint on their anvils, but I think I'd rather have whatever protection I put on there be clear so the actual metal is showing. Anyone got some suggestions on what I can put on there to keep it from rusting? It doesn't seem like a regular clear coat would really work.

That's the exact hose I had I believe, thanks for the verification that this works. I was under the assumption that a regulator helped even out the pressure and eliminate "burps" but that's apparently inaccurate. I have a pencil torch from Bernz, but it's the "jumbo" type which I decided to get because many people complain that a regular pencil torch isn't as hot as they'd want. I'm making my forge with Inswool, satanite, and ITC 100 so hopefully I can get it pretty hot.

Thanks for the replies. If I stop posting suddenly you guys can assume what happened!

I'm making a coffee can forge, and most every set of instructions has a soldering torch attached directly to one of those little 1 pound bottles. I figured it'd be a lot cheaper to simply hook it up to a 20lb bottle you usually buy for grills. The problem exists that these are two different types of connections. I have bought a hose that goes straight from the big bottle and attaches directly to the soldering torch. The problem here is that there's no regulator, and there's seemingly no way to add a regulator to the hookup since they're all designed to be attached directly to the bottle. So - can I run this soldering torch without a regulator? I was told the pressure in the 20lb bottle is the same as the 1lb bottles (which don't have or need a regulator) and that it should work. I didn't want to blow myself up, though. My backup is to just refill the 1lb bottle over and over but that's a pain.

Turns out it says "56" and then "B" below, so more like 123 pounds. Thanks!

Bought it for $200: It looks darn near brand new. I'm gonna shine it up a bit and it probably will look new. No real knicks or pitting anywhere. Whoever has owned this in the past hasn't done anything with it. Pings super loud and long when I tap it.

Okay so I decided to pick it up today anyway. I can always flip it for at LEAST as much as I'm buying it for, if not more. Screw being responsible! I feel like this is going to happen a lot in my life.

Ugh! This was such a good deal. Was going to get it for $175, but I guess I have to be an ADULT and not buy it because I've already too much on blacksmithing stuff. Having to pass on it. It was listed in the Dallas craigslist if anyone is interested.

Good call, I forgot that I think he also said it had "Sweden" on the side. I think the spelling is Kohlswa. Looks like they make good anvils, so this is a heck of a deal! Thanks so much

Going to check it out tomorrow, it's a screaming good deal I came across on craigslist. The guy wasn't sure about the weight, but he guessed 150 (probably a fair bit less than that in reality). He said it has "Burlington, WI" on the side and the numbers (I think this is what he said) 58 and 3. Unfortunately the small image is all I have. edit: meant Burlington, not baltimore as the title says

You could try Etsy - see what's popular there and make whatever it is too.

I'm in a similar position to you, but I just graduated and now have a garage so getting started will be easier for me. I found blacksmithing classes for really cheap at a local community college (in DFW if you're also in the area). Maybe there will be something similar near you? I'm getting a railroad track section mailed to me to use as a starter anvil to keep costs down for now. It was free and I only paid for the shipping, about $15. It isn't a very good option but it works and is super cheap. Even small real anvils are super expensive ($250 is about the cheapest I've seen for a 80 pounder). From what I read your setup is probably fine. I'm going the coffee can forge route, which you might want to look into because it's more portable and cleaner. Also probably cheaper.

So I'm looking at getting some woodworking tools, and a hand plane is obviously an important piece. There's seemingly a lot of pseudo-science surrounding these but perhaps I shouldn't be so quick to discount it before I try it. Anyway, people often say that it helps to buy a third party blade if you're buying a less than top of the line hand plane. It seems strange that the types of steel used would really differ that much. But on to my question: What's the ideal type of steel for making these blades?

Lesson learned! No gloves and don't overheat. I was kind of wondering about the heat part, but since I was just grinding away on scrap I wasn't really concerned. I thought I was being safe with the gloves, but I guess not! Good thing I'm taking a class soon so I can hopefully learn to not do that sort of thing.

I wear gloves and eye protection with mine The metal got pretty hot (too hot to hold without gloves)

I tested out my $20 harbor freight upright belt sander and was pleased with the results of only a few minutes gentle work on a quite rusty rail road spike: 80 or 120 grit belt, I forget which. Some random cheap AO type. Semi-mirrored polish on top real quick. In terms of stock removal it's not super fast, but sharpening the end to an edge sharp enough to cut myself was easy. I wasn't able to press hard enough to stop the belt. I imagine a 40 grit ceramic belt will work really well at stock removal. Quick question though: Is it bad to use the area of the belt that isn't pressed against a back plate? It's a lot quieter and easier to use there. Thomas: I'm starting blacksmithing classes in a few weeks which will hopefully give me the foundation to start working on tools and knives.

Looks like your PM box is full, says you can't receive any more. How much were you looking to get for the 148 anvil? Any idea what shipping would run? It may be a couple weeks before I actually purchase an anvil, if you still have it by then. Feel free to reply back via PM since I hopefully can receive them.Thanks!

Hopefully this is the correct place for this: I'm having a heck of a time find a smaller anvil (needs to be portable) in DFW. If anyone knows of one for sale or sitting around, let me know!

Beats hand files though Picked one up from craigslist today for $20. Works well so far and even if it winds up being garbage I can still use the motor for other applications.

Thanks, that guide is useful!

Is the disc on the side actually useful for knives or should I get a model that doesn't have it?

Thanks for all the replies. I know the machines I'm looking at are not professional quality and will break eventually. I'm only just now starting out, however, and don't want to spend/invest a ton into parts/machines until I feel like it's something I'll stick with. As MattBower said, I know many people who have used both types just fine for small hobby knife making, but I was unsure which type would be better. I'll stick with the upright model as Matt said. I'm going to be giving the Gingery metal shop books a shot and those larger belt sanders look like something I could make with a lathe/milling machine. I'll also invest into a set of files as you mentioned southshoresmith, but I'll have to do some reading to see which types I will need since I've never looked at them before.

I've noticed there's two major types of bench-top belt sanders. Ones like this: http://www.amazon.co...13938725&sr=1-4 and ones like this: http://www.amazon.co...13938927&sr=1-3 In many of the books I've read, they recommend at least 2 inches wide and I think 48 inches long. I don't understand what the benefit of a longer belt is and which type would be more appropriate for grinding/sharpening knives. The 1" wide (first one) has the benefit of there being a table attached to rest the blade on and has a longer belt, while the second is a lot wider.