brucegodlesky

heheeheh now there's an idea Bob!! Keep 'em from getting scratched!

Heck Glenn, I have a buncha blades settin' on the bench unfinished. Thats just so I don't have to sell them yet(BOG)

Reckon ya better tell us the next to last step, as you know it, so we can tell you the last step.
The very last step I do is oil the blade:-)

Happy Birthday to ya James, and many more.Remember Captain Video??(BOG)
53 huh? I won't see that one again.

mcraigl, you'll lose that bet.
I went to forced air to save money on fuel.
I'd just as soon use aspirated when simply forging. When it comes to welding damascus, forced air can't be beat. Heat and lots of it very fast. As a matter of fact, I was checking out Jymm Hoffmans burners this week and think I'm going that route.

Dodge, the first fgorge I built from poured refrac was heated with a HF weed burner.
Sounded similar to ajet engine but got hot enuff to Heat treat anyhow.

Tom, my cousin takes those large bolts, draws the end out to a point, gives them a high polish and sells 'em to folks that like RR spikes and such. Nice novelty!.

Nice effect with the ball peen Karl.

Dodge, after epoxying the leather spacers, just take it to the belt grinder and shape it. To preserve the leather, soak in mineral oil. That will tighten up loose handles also.
That's a nice batch of old knives ya got there. I'm pretty sure the original specs are available thru the patent office.
Union Razor Co. was originally located in Tidioute Pa. and made mostly pocketknives and razors. 1896-1911.

That's jaw-droppin' beautiful Bob!

Dodge, One thing I would do is have a floor of either poured refrac or firebrick. That will keep any flux from destroying the ceramic wool lining.
The GP421 sounds like the ticket for coating the wool.

plain ol mustard will give an old timey type etch

Fun isn't it John/!!

QC, those are always fun to make.

Here ya go.
One of these days I'll remember to full quench. I've never been able to get a good etch on edge quenched cable blades.

I'd have to play around at getting a larger image, I'll try.
The walnut come from a neighbor's tree. Saw him cutting it and begged the crotches from him.
Thanks guys!

Finished this'un today.
Cable with some really nice walnut handle material. SS firniture.
Thanks for looking! bruce/birdog

Ed, my guess would be a 10xx series, mainly because it's an old steel and used a lot in the time era of crosscuts. I don't know that O1 is such an old steel. I've never run into any saws that I thought were O1.
JMo bruce/birdog

Yep, lotsa folks "want" to want to .

7000sfm, that's screaming, for sure!
You have a picture of that thing? Frankengrinder (BOG) I like that!

Pretty nice, Dr Jim!!!!!
How the heck do you hold the steel to that wheel?

Riley is quite the metalworker in his own right! :-)
He is already working on his first knife and we see a tomahawk in the future.
The sharing of ideas and concepts is what makes these endeavors so worthwhile. Thanks Riley! bruce/birdog

Here is mine. Made from a backbar off a Chevy S-10. Cut in half and welded. 2 Nuts welded on outside for snugging up the liners. Liners made from maple and faced with leather.
On the outside are 2 pieces of flat stock weldedat 12 oclock and 3 oclock. these give you 2 different aspects in the bench vice.

Thanks Hollis. Somewhere I had seen a formula related to belts and I seem to remember a thickness factor. Must have been something else.

Does belt thickness affect speed? How about width? Will I lose much with a 1 1/2" belt on a 2" pulley? Enquiring mind and all.