castlegardener
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Posts posted by castlegardener
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thanks everyone for the replies...I will change a few things before the next blade
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wow..that looks really nice...terrific job
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I never would have guessed someone could have drawn out the hammer head so far....very nice indeed...
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I don't know anything about the hunting laws or practices but the workmanship looks great...
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thanks for the link...those are great photos...thanks Matt
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thanks everyone....will try again..
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thank you very much...sorry to distract from your sword post...
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terrific looking knife
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are you drilling holes in the handle for pins?
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any idea what the name of the tool store was on Dillingham?
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my forge is indeed in bright light, and this metal was super thin...it is a good chance I overheated it....
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here is a photo of me holding both pieces between my fingers.
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must be just the reflection.
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Hello everyone,
I would like to share a photo of a knife I crafted for a friend. The blade is bed frame steel, the handle is bloodwood with polyurethane finish. He requested a black blade. This was my 8th knife I believe.
The blade was quenched in motor oil, and tempered in a toaster oven at 400F for an hour. The rune is carved in the blade with a dremel tool while soft. -
thank you Rich...I will reforge the next blade and try again.
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terrific looking at every detail.
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Hi Steve,
the sword looks incredible. I have just begun bladesmithing on Oahu. Maybe you know where I could find an anvil? Let me know if you need something found on my island. -
I guess this should probably have been in the knife section on heat treating...I missed that folder....sorry guys
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Hello all,
This is my first real post, and it starts with a problem.
Today I snapped a knife blade in half.
A friend asked for a filet knife so I forged one as thin as I could get it. I am using a propane/firebrick forge. The steel was car leaf spring steel.
I forged the blade. Normalized it twice. Heated it to bright orange, quenched it in motor oil once. Out of the motor oil the blade warped a small amount. I then polished the blade up some, and put it in a toaster oven at 400F for an hour. Once it was finished, I put it back into the oven for 425F for another hour.
I began polishing again and sharpening the blade but still tried to figure out what to do with the warped blade.
I took a small micro butane torch and heated the blade near the warp to a dark brown/ blue thinking it would add flexibility.
I squeezed the blade in a vise but the warp remained. So, I grabbed the blade with two hands and attempted to bend it a little bit and the whole blade snapped in two.
I will attempt to upload a photo, but this is my first attempt at photo uploading.
I have crafted 10 or 11 blades before this but none this thin.
Any help on troubleshooting my work procedures would be greatly appreciated. -
Hello everyone.
I just joined the forum and thought I would say hi. I started recently with a brakedrum/charcoal forge and then upgraded to a propane/firebrick forge that I built. I have crafted 10 or 11 knife blades so far and really like the whole process. Almost all my knives are full tang. I have tried forge welding several times and have failed but am still trying.
I live on the island of Oahu, Hawaii. I have begun reading through the forum files and am eagerly soaking up all the great info.
Thanks for having me.
John.
snapped a blade in half
in Heat Treating Knives, Blades etc
Posted
so...if I am to temper a blade at 500-600 what am I supposed to use to do this? My little toaster oven will only go to 450. Am I supposed to do the tempering in my forge? And if so, how am I going to get it that low of a temperature in the forge and be able to keep it running for an hour? I still have an old brake drum charcoal forge not being used anymore since I now use the propane/firebrick forge. Is the charcoal brake drum forge a better option for the heat tempering?