Boyhowdy

Thanks everyone, I appreciate you input.

I would like to get some feedback from anyone who has used rounding hammers. I am going to purchase one, and would like to know,

"Is there any difference in the quality..............NORDIC  VS. DIAMOND?"

Thanks

Wayne should be able to take care of you.

http://www.waynecoeartistblacksmith.com/

Very Nice, indeed

Thanks to all for the great info and various tidbits of insight; all good stuff. The 'idle circuit' idea sounds interesting and would be curious about specifics. Being new, my progress on a piece of work takes a bit longer and I'm not as efficient with the forge and anvil as I should be. Obviously that will all change tomorrow :)

 

Seriously, the bottom line is that i need to plan on getting a bigger tank sometime this summer and work on getting more metal moved per heat. Thanks again! 

Here is a link, This guy has the perfect example of an idle circuit

http://traditionaltoolworks.com/smithy/forge_build/index.html

Right now at the coop near me I can get my 20 lb tanks filled for $14.25. At the exchange they are $22.00. That's quite a savings. As far as how long a tank will last a single burner forge will use (approx) 1 lb per hour @ 3 psi., 2 lbs an hour @ 6 psi, and so on..... Another thing that will make a difference in fuel usage is the type of insulation in the forge. Any gas forge should have a Reflective coating in it,(plistex,Metrikote,ITC 100 HT) if not get some. it makes all the difference in the world.

I just finished building a (single burner) gas forge, and cannot believe how well it works. I get a hell of a lot more heat from that single burner, than I ever did with the 3 burner, which will now be getting a Metrikote treatment.

Larry Zoeller has some pictures of soft bricks mortared together to make a forge body.  I've built one of those and I can affirm that it's a nice forge, but soft firebricks are not designed to be structural like hard bricks - they expand and contract and then crack.  I rebuilt my soft brick forge a few times and then called it quits and built a metal can lined with superwool. 

 

The soft bricks will work well, but they'll work better with a coat of ITC or something similar (Plistix, homebrew kaolin/zircopax, etc.)

 

You might get better results with the soft fire bricks held together in a metal frame - which you'll also find pictured at Zoeller's site.

 

I don't use a hard brick for my floor - I use a slice from a kiln shelf, which is a bit thinner, and thus doesn't suck up as much heat.

According to his website he will be closed for a couple months, due to medical problems. He does have quite a selection of parts. Thanks

Soft brick deteriate to quickly and hard brick are a heat sink.

Check out the tutorial on my website on the Forge Supplies page for building a gas forge my way.

Wayne, I did check out your website.......Impressive....I have it bookmarked......I will definately contact you when I'm ready to order some materials. Thanks again.

Thanks again guys.......Rich, sorry 'bout that..... I wasn't in the mood to put up with their crap last night.

Like I said in the earlier post, Every bit of info really helps.

Thanks Guys. Every bit of info helps.

Here is a question I asked in the Iforge chat, and Just got a bunch of jokers trying to be funny.
I have a three burner Propane Forge that uses way too much fuel for my pocketbook. I am building a smaller single burner, and would like to know: "Which is better to line it with, Soft, or Hard Bricks?" I have hard brick in my current forge, and I feel the bricks are absorbing alot of the heat. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

Yes it is.     VERY Happy with it.

After doing some serious inspection, and a little more digging, I found out it is a 125# Yost circa 1924...Made in Meadville PA.

I purchased an Anvil last thursday. I was hesitating on the Purchase because I wasn't sure whether it had a good ring, or rebound to it.

The guy that had it dropped a 1" Ball Bearing on the face, and that sold it instantly, as there was about a 90-95% rebound.

He had it advertised as a 120lb Kohlswa, but upon getting it home, and inspecting it further, I don't know how he figured it was a Kohlswa.

The only Markings I can see are difficult to make out.

On the side with the Horn Facing to the LEFT there is a FAINT marking that looks like Possibly, (UST), or (JST), and below that is what appears to be a a city name, that is difficult to make out as well... It appears to be on the lines of (M----VILLE). I have done a search and have come up with nothing. I haven't remove the Anvil from the stand to see if there are any markings on the bottom. I am attaching the Only pic I have at this time. My camera took a Dump on me this weekend, I will post more pics when I get a new camera if needed. Thanks in advance.

Normalizing is a type of heat treatment applicable to ferrous metals only. It differs from annealing in that the metal is heated to a higher temperature and then removed from the furnace for air cooling.