MikePierich

Real good stuff - thanks!

Anyone who heat treats mystery steel should read page 12 & 13 of this document: http://www.abana.org/resources/affiliateshare.old/files/ALEX_BEALER_BLACKSMITH_ASSOC/abealer_newsletter_Feb_06%20%28v%2011%29.pdf

and when you get 'round to it, read this: http://www.feine-klingen.de/PDFs/verhoeven.pdf

Just got it this afternoon (love that Amazon Prime free 2-day shipping!). Now I already "know" how to draw out a blade and "pack" the edge. It is a great book. Still glad I have the Boye book - together they're very complimentary.

I won't be making any armor any time soon, LOL. But you never know...I'm thinking a half a 20-gallon grease drum would make a good start. :)

Thanks Derek, the more choices the better.

Gosh, I'd forgotten about silkscreen. Now I'm thinking you could just use rubber cement to stick just about any mask to the surface.

Thanks.

Wow that sounded very complicated. Have you thought of silk screen. It's fairly simple to burn an image on a screen. A dark room and a lightbulb (and by dark room I don't mean photography).

Thanks Phil. Hadn't had much luck on Google so far, but if it's out there I'll find it.

Thanks, David.

I love all of Dr. Hrisoulas's books and highly recommend them, "The Pattern-Welded Blade Artistry In Iron (Equipment & Techniques)", as well as the book titled "Master Bladesmith: Advanced Studies in Steel". I look forward to when he finishes his fourth book!

I was thinking about when I get some decent blades made, maybe doing some etching. I knew about beeswax and acid, but that requires an artist to work by hand.

Then I found out about the saltwater and battery method. Wow. I etched a vine on my pocket knife blade...left it in for 3 hours and it actually got way deeper than necessary. I love this cheap method....but you still need an artist.

I used nail polish for a resist, but in subsequent experiments found that it flakes off randomly so isn't suitable for fine details.

Anybody know of a stencil material that can be printed with an inkjet printer, and then be adhered to the steel so the salt bath doesn't get under it? That would be ideal since the artist wouldn't ever have to touch the knife.

It appears that the Etch-o-matic stencils aren't adhesive, which wouldn't work in a salt bath. OTOH, I suppose one could dab it on if one pole of the battery were hooked to a wad of cotton with the saltwater on it...but it still seems to me that the saltwater would work its way under the stencil

Any thoughts?

I just looked in our county system. Thanks for the suggestion, but I figure since the book is mentioned here numerous times, it must be worth risking less than 20 bucks. But that'a good tip for more unknown books so I'll use it in the future for sure.

Actually, I have had "Step-by-Step Knifemaking" since the early 80's when I first made a few blades. You're right, it is an excellent book. I'm sure it's been updated since then, but it's a great book as is. But I have the impression that the "Complete Bladesmith" covers forging, which my old edition of Boye's book doesn't at all.

This seems to be the best book to get started, according to most people in here. Local library system doesn't have it - but I checked Amazon and it's a measly 17 bucks in paperback, and with the Prime membership you can have it in two days with no shipping fee (U.S.).

Just passin' it on.

Yeah, just getting back into knifemaking and smithing after 30 years, figgered I'd try to do it right this time.

Thanks, I'll check it out.

It sounds like you're just starting out. If someone hasn't suggested it yet, check the ABANA (Artist Blacksmith Assn. of N. America) site for an affiliate close to you, attend a meeting and you'll likely find someone willing to show you the basics.

ron

Thanks, Thomas, for the practical tips. They make sense.

Sounds like everyone's in agreement on the book...I'll check out the local library.

OK, thanks Rich. I'll do a little experimenting then maybe try to find somebody local.

Anybody know of a thread or sticky about drawing out a blade to shape? I think I have the general idea but any info would help. It would be cool to be able to do that as opposed to stock removal.

I did do a search as best I could - the results were all over the place and didn't really address the topic.

Thanks

Thanks Rich, I'll check it out.

Mike look in the knives forum and scroll down a little to the heat treating knives blades section. You will find a couple of articles on heat treating blades there. And if you want to spend a little time and search the forums for old
Q and As on heat treating you may find a ton of information. Also if you local library does not have a copy of The Complete Bladesmith they may be able to get it on loan from another library. Also look in pages section and see if the bp on heat treatment is there yet.

Thanks, Thomas. I think what I might do is to get a source where there's a reasonable chance that the material will be consistent (I know of a trailer fabricating shop where I might get pieces of lightweight leaf springs, for example) and run some snap tests on them.

Thanks again.

Alloy, design and personal preference controls heat treat! Your basic technique is great for some alloys, OK for others and HORRIBLE for others.

If you are using unknown alloys make it a part of making a blade to test heat treating of it---what we call the junkyard steel rules

Steve,

I hate to admit to being a forum dummy, but the only sticky I see under Bladesmithing is the one on "Choosing Steel". If there are others on heat treating, could you direct me to them? Or are you referring to the Heat Treating forum?

Thanks.

What happens when you tried following the information in the sticky's? I will be happy to explain in more detail if you need more help.

Because of my financial situation, I'm currently limited to using whatever I can find to make my blades. I'm using files, circular saw blades, automotive springs, and old cleavers.

Can someone describe an overall rule-of-thumb heat treatment process that will give me the best results possible, given that my material will be an unknown variable?

Right now I generally cut the rough shape with a torch, make the blade on a rough grinder and sanding belt(s), heat it to bright red and quench in corn oil, then draw a blue temper in the handle and spine, with a straw temper at the edge.

Does this sound reasonable for an overall process? Thanks.

Looking for recommendations for books - with an emphasis on heat treating. I know how to "make" a knife...but my heat treatment is completely hit or miss at this point. I'd like to make a quality blade, not just a pretty one.

Thanks.

Thanks j.P.

Thanks,

Yes, that's a common way of pricing anything, whether it be art or anything else. The catch is that when you're starting out you might make as good a blade as a professional, but it might take you 3 times as long to make it.

But as you say you'd be making them anyhow, and at least you can pay for materials and an occasional six pack. I doubt many people make anything by hand and earn a handsome living at it.

OK, thanks rich. Good stuff.

Thanks Steve.

for you who sell their work:

If you guys wouldn't mind, I'd like to ask where you sell your knives. I love to work with my hands and am fairly creative, but as a businessman I generally stink. Do you go to shows, local gun shops, word of mouth?

When I think of the time it takes to make a nice knife, it's hard to see how to make a decent wage and still find people who will pay what the work is worth. May I ask what you charge for your work?

Thanks in advance.

Thanks Grant, good info.

Also, looking at that monster blower he has on that thing, then at my little El Cheap-o hair dryer, I can see why my fire doesn't exactly...well, "set the world on fire", as they say.

Check out this thread: Cast iron floor drain for coal forge? for some more good information.