Jump to content
I Forge Iron

Dave Leppo

Members
  • Posts

    326
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Dave Leppo

  1. The ammount of coal consumed, i have found, can vary widely. One must use strict fire management to keep it to a minimum. I use an electric blower, and i think i would like to switch to a manual blower / bellows of some kind. I visited a professional smith a few months ago, and he uses about half the coal i use as a hobbieist!



    I'm trying to do better. ;)

  2. the local demo shop saves coke from previous sessions, and uses this exclusively, slowly making more from green coal each time they forge. The smith sources the best coal he can possibly find to do this with. This they must do because the smithy shares a park with some ballfields, all located in a residential area. The helper steps outside regularly to check the chimney discharge and wind direction.

  3. I used a few pieces of 12" galvanized pipe, and an elbow, which followed me home from work. these formed the horizontal portion. Continued the main vertical stack with 12" duct made from 2 pieces of 6" duct snapped together. this was a much lighter guage metal, but it should last a while. at the forge, the galvanized part that's over the fire is a removable hood, not part of the horizontal pipe, which stops behind the big rusty plate. (the grey disk thingie behind the vertical pipe, on the exterior wall, is an exhaust fan discharge, which I always run when working, especially in the summer time)

    7453.attach

    7454.attach

    7455.attach

    7456.attach

  4. The black may be fire scale, which resists rust. Wherever the scale breaks off, or cracks, rust will form. Leave the piece outside for a month, then clear coat with whatever. Here's a tripod plant stand I made, you can see that it's pretty black, with some rust where the ring was forge-welded. I left it out for a few days in steamy central PA, and then linseed oiled it.

    7342.attach

  5. Can you make the end stop work for the second hit only? Have it pivot on a pin, put it down for the first hit, put it up for the second. I would think that when the first hit is done, the material will grow to where the stop is, so maybe it doesn't even have to pivot, but there's head-room between the stop and the end befor you start

  6. My Dad’s neighbor, (an old blacksmith, woodworker, machinist, steam engine builder, etc), has a unique cone mandrel which I believe he built. It has the standard tapered cone on one side, and a STEPPED cone on the opposite side (maybe

  7. OK... My shop is a wood structure. Will the lightning go thru the wood to get to my steel forge, which has legs sitting on the ground?

    Actually, my flu is metal, and is attached to the forge table - but if it wasn't??

×
×
  • Create New...