Dave Leppo

OK, but it sounds like Andy's saying that his anvil rings MORE now. Why would that be?

(I think their's a BP on quieting anvils)

OK, i hate to admit this, butt...

Hit myself in the eye with the hammer once - rebounding off the anvil - missed the workpiece (trying to hammer in a really tight area, in my defence)

Perscription safety glasses saved me - I didn't even get a shiner! was hard enough to knock the glasses off my face and bend them up pretty good.

I WEAR ONE OF THESE, THOUGH I WOULD LIKE TO GET SOME WALNUT HULLS AND STAIN IT BROWN / BLACK

Thak the Blacksmith &Armourer- Ontario, Canada

ONE THING I USE IT FOR YOU MIGHT NOT THINK OF - TO UNSCREW THE WIRE WHEEL FROM THE GRINDER W/O GETTING THE LITTLE WIRES JABBED IN YOUR HAND.

I asked about stainless on the GURU'S DEN @ ANVILFIRE.COM. I was forging 300 series stainless items for the bathroom and they were rusting. "Quenchcrack's" response - Friday, 08/22/08 19:10:39 EDT

- Glenn, if this is a policy violation I urge you to delete this post

This does NOT violate IForgeIron policy but is in direct violation of Anvilfire policy. Anvilfire policy is that NO AMNONT of text can be copied from the Anvilfire site, no matter how small, without permission from the Anvilfire. The responce has been reworded to pass along the information without violating the Anvilfire policy.

The stainless steel 300 series is high in nickel and chromium. 300 series with an L is for low carbon and you most likely, by getting it hot enough to form chromium carbides, depleted the chromium. The surface formation of chromium oxide is used to protect it from additional oxidation, which will not be cured by surface passivization. The carbides must be dissolved to release the chromium. Heating to 1800F-2000F and water quench will release them, and dissolve the chromium barbides which will prevent their re=precipitation. Use the L version in the future, as it does not require the additional heat treatment.

This I did with later items – heating to bright red-orange and quenching. Cant tell you if this worked or not – OK so far.

Did you weld the pieces to a round bar, then forge it flat, then bend it? That really takes talent!

uhmmmm...
-
-
- A PRACTICE WELD PIECE!

if you already have an adequate compressor, i would reccomend:
Iron Kiss Hammers

Theres always mount vernon - i think they are re-constructing the blacksmith shop, or at least excavating it

Was it a Swage Block?

if the pipe dia restriction is the depth front to back of the top plate of the hood, is it wider, and can you get an oval shape?

FP

got a pic? Or can you do a quick sketch or something?

I am fortunate enough to work in a steel fab shop, and I take home scrap & drops, and occasionally buy new pieces of flat bar directly from the company at our supply cost.

of course, i make sure to pay promptly for these purchases, and I made the shop foreman a nice oak leaf / acorn hook to return the favor of letting me raid the scrap dumsters.

Auctions are fun, but you do have to be careful. This past saturday, I saw a guy buy a post drill. he was excited to get it for les than $100, till he realized that he had bought the drill, and not the portable forge next to it! he walked away in disgust, and didn't even bid on the forge!

Also: Rust blueing - allowing / encouraging the part to rust in a controlled manner, then boiling it in distilled or rain water to change the rust to black. This is a very old gun finish technique.

In this case the drawing would serve as a guide, or starting place, for me ore anyone else interested. In the drafting business, many drawings are not precisely followed by fabricators, and some even have a built-in flexibility, with notes such as

Anyone have a dimensioned drawing of a Peeve? Someone asked me about how to make one last week.

DAWN -wakeup and yawn..

yea... IRON KISS IS THE WAY TO GO!

nice work! what do they bring, if I may ask?

Caminus Quercus

OAK EGG FORGE?

(acorn=oak egg)

try something like this:

if the 6" material is the kind with a lock seam, you can snap two together to make a 12" dia pipe. Its not as good as a fabrcated 12" pipe; it tends to want to oval. If you stagger the seams 90 degrees when you join the pipe sections together, it helps in counteracting the oval effect. You still probably have to go by more, because you will use twice as much for a given length of pipe

My apologies if this has already been addressed.

By the way, I vote agaised the smoke shelf, onthe grounds that it is a holdover from masonry construction, and not needed in steel chimneys. More important to have an opening at the forge less than the smallest area of the main stack, to maintain entrance velocity. IMHO

I was using a cheap Chinese 4" grinding wheel at vice / belly height when the wheel broke apart, sending a chunk at me right below the navel, and giving a heavy-duty bruise! This with a heavy leather apron! Probably would have gut-shot me without the apron!