jim c
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Everything posted by jim c
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240 layer .... 15n20 and 1080 handle is iron wood ... 16 inches long -
roses....18 inchs tall...used die patina cold -
knifes like that push me to become better at my craft. frickin beautiful! -
new door handles -
thank's, thats a good one , i did not think of that one , i will try it . have a great day!
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hello, what's going on is after forging out the blade i will normalize by bringing the blade to a good orange color then setting it aside on the coal bed then again to orange and putting it in lime ( witch i plan on getting rid of ) then i try to drill a hole for pins and it's just to hard. the wraper on the material says it's an oil harding steel and it's warpless,maybee a brand name? also it has the recipe of the steel on the wraper but i am not to familar with the peticular's, maybee if i had some kind of chart?
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***** i just might try the wood stove thing ..i like that thanks!
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HELLO, I INHERITED SOME STEEL A FEW YEARS AGO AND HAVE BEEN MAKING BLADES FROM IT BUT LATELY I CAN'T SEEM TO ANNEIL THE STUFF. ON THE WRAPER ITS CALLED WARPLESS AND IM ASSUMING ITS O1 IT IS A OIL HARDING STEEL. MY FREIND THAT PASSED WAS A MACHINEST. I USE LIME AS A ANNEILING MEDIUM THOUGH IM READY TO SWITCH TO VERMECULITE AS IT SEEMS THAT MOST PEOPLE USE IT.ANY IDEAS?
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about 6'6 x 4' -
yes of course, these spikes are made of whc, a water hardening steel. -
all spike, nothing added
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side detail -
center detail -
49 bottle wine rack with accent lighting at boomers saloon , laytonville ca -
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somebody acually paid me to make one of these -
hello ironbudd, no... after forging the handle i start to forge the blade flat and stop somewhere around 5/16 then i just split it with a chisel or cut it with a band saw, then forge out the blade with a fuller to push the material one way or the other. nothing added, nothing taken away. happy forging jim c -
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inside view