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I Forge Iron

backyard smith

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Posts posted by backyard smith

  1. I have all kinds of hammer handles, smooth, dimpled, groved, short, long, fat, skinny and the one I use the most is a 2.5lb cross peen with a 14inch handle that has 4 finger groves and a thumb grove on both sides. I think it's all about you and what works for you. Try a few different handles and see witch one you like best. My best friend plays hockey and all his hammers have the same tape on them he uses on his hockey stick...I can't stand it but he loves it!

  2. Looks great! As for the pommel you could always go old school. Leave the tang just a little long and pein it like a rivet. The first knife I ever saw made was done like that...I bought it and the handle is still tight on it after 25 years. I have also seen the end of the tang threaded with a matching thread in the pommel. Just a few ideas hope it helped. TC

  3. I buy old steel wire racks at yard sales and flea markets. You can get them for next to nothing, have even fished a few out of the trash. There is plenty of 1/4 and 3/16 stock in them. The short lengths make it easy to forge your own rivets. Just remember to take a magnet with you while shopping. Because I have found a lot of aluminum racks around. TC


  4. It's not much but it works! Started with a old homemade steel charcoal grill, a break drum, some scrap pipe and a use water heater blower. Probably not the prettiest forge in the world but if I'm not careful I can melt the end of 1" key stock.

    got some photos have a look

    post-16611-0-84278600-1296702877_thumb.j

    post-16611-0-52008800-1296702942_thumb.j

    post-16611-0-89113100-1296703012_thumb.j

    post-16611-0-42355700-1296703149_thumb.j

  5. The only thing that make me cringe about power hammers is the price! I built my 30lb hammer for the cost of a 1 1/2hp motor and the scrap steel. Figure welding rods and power to melt them the steel and motor...I have 225 dollars in a hammer that I know every inch of it and can fix anything that may go wrong. Been running good with steady use for 2 years now. I do however see the photos of some hammers that look dangerous at best. Building a hammer is not for a novice mechanic, and if a novice wants to build one please reach out for some help! TC


  6. I bought mine already built, I never could get the time to go to a build, I work overseas, and there wern't plans availible at the time.

    The only real issue is the base plate realy needs to be heavier than 1/2", I'd suggest 1" at least, if not 1 1/2". Also after some use the motor base plate starts to break away from the motor houseing. Not a fault of the hammer, but sideways stress on spot welds, the motor manufacture didn't figure on the kinds of side loads a tire uses for the clutch. It's an easy fix if your a good welder, just run a quick bead and a brace and it's fixed. Just keep the heat down, my motor have been runing fine for years after modifiying.

    Here's a pic, just use thick steel for the brace and make sure you put most of the heat to the brace, and do it in short sections letting it cool between welding so you don't burn the wires.

    I don't know if I would weld on a motor housing. Motors are not cheap and if you burn the varnish off the winding's your at least going to drop HP if not burn it up. And that photo looked like a lot of weld. I have been known to make U bolts out of all-thread and use that to mount the motor. TC
  7. I think you should take a drive out of your area and find a working shop. That way they won't see you as a competitor. Talk to the boss and find out the details. I know my local shop does way more welding and machining than blacksmithing. And he is always complaining about health care prices for him and his guys, the light bill, price of steel and if the women who ordered the garden gate paid us yet. I have a Monday tru Friday job and do this as a hobby. I go to a few craft fairs and a historic village weekend or two and I make enough money to keep me in tools, coal and steel. Also it is still fun for me after 10 years, if it were work I'd need to find a new hobby! Hope I helped. TC

  8. This is a simple fix I brazzed a piece 3/8 round stock about a foot long on a 2" pipe cap and then put high temp anti-seized on both the cap and nipple. Have never had any problems getting the cap off to clean ashes out. The new forge I made has a homemade trap door on the bottom nipple, no treads to worry about at all. I think the key to all of this is keeping it simple!

  9. I agree with Matt even a RR spike stamped HC on top will be fine a full squelch. The other idea about the toaster oven is also great. I have 2 at all times. Yard sales, flea markets or thrift shops are great places to pick them up cheap. I don't use the house oven because I squelch in a oil-pariffin mix and it stinks as it cooks off. Hope this helped.

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