Rhrocker

I've wanted a "real" tig for several years. I had the aftermarket "add-on" that you can attach to a regular welder, but the welder wasn't made for that, so....
I got a really good buy on a Lincoln Square Wave 175 not to long ago. So far it's performed ok, but I need some more time on the tig to practice with it. I have some thick aluminum to weld (.250"), and was wondering if this machine would do it? In fact, does anyone have any experience with a square wave 175? Good, bad, or otherwise? I do need some new tig parts (ceramic nozzels, etc) and so far haven't located anything for that, but should just be a matter of time.
Robert

Just a note of caution, from this link http://www.medicineonline.com/drugs/h/2723/halobetasol-propionate-cream-0-05.html

Halobetasol propionate cream is a super-high potency corticosteroid indicated for the relief of the inflammatory and pruritic manifestations of corticosteroid-responsive dermatoses. Treatment beyond two consecutive weeks is not recommended, and the total dosage should not exceed 50 g/week because of the potential for the drug to suppress the hypothalamic-pituitary-adrenal (HPA) axis. Use in children under 12 years of age is not recommended.

As with other highly active corticosteroids, therapy should be discontinued when control has been achieved.

Exactly, and thanks! As with all meds, take the standard precautions, read labels. In fact, with this cream, you'd need a prescription anyway, so your doctor will know how to advise you (if he even wants you to try it). Again, it sure helps cracked fingers, in much less than 2 weeks. Appreciate the link John B!
Robert

I've had the severe cracking fingertips for years and years. I tried everything, and Mane and Tail was pretty good. I finally asked my doctor about it, and he perscribed a lotion made by the Perrigo company, called "Halobetasol Propionate Cream, 0.05%". Bar none, this is the absolute best cream I've ever used. I put about 1/2 teaspoon full in my palm and start
working my hands like I was washing them. I also put a little extra on the cracks. It just takes less than 5 minutes of rubbing, and Guys my hands come out like baby hands, it's unreal. Plus, no worry about toxins, etc. I don't know what it cost because my medical policy covers it, but even if it didn't I'd buy it. I think I'm addicted! There may be a generic that's over the counter or at least not as expensive (if it is). I sure wish I had enough to send everyone a spoonfull!! I used it about 2 hours ago, and my hands and fingers still feel like silk. No, I have no connection with the company, I'm just happy with a good product that really works for me, but of course, and you guys say, YMMV (but I don't think so!).

Hey Don, as a professional furniture builder, and can appreciate the fine work that went into
his cabinet. I enlarged the photos and really went over them with a fine toothed comb, and his
work is absolutely excellant. I hate to say it, but it's better than I could do, although chairmaking is my
speciality. Now, the thing that really sets this fine cabinet off, are your hinges. Even from a distance,
you see the cabinet, but the focal points are the hinges.
Well done Don!!
Robert

http://www.scribd.com/doc/10097282/Uri-Hofi-Interview
It seems Hofi states the answer in this interview.

Ok, my question is answered. I went to the page with the interview, and the first rattle
out of the box he was asked what he liked to be called. His answer:


Uri Hofi: "Let me tell you something, when I was a child in the kindergarten, were 5 boys with the name of Uri. To solve the dilemma, everybody was called by his family name. Since then, till now, everybody calls me Hofi."

Thanks to all that responded!
Robert

That's my way of thinking also. Besides, he has tools that we refer to like "Hofi Hammer", and not Mr. Hofi Hammer.
I wonder why the posts/replies aren't showing? (at least they aren't for me).
Robert

Mr. Hofi, I have nothing but the absolute deepest respect for you, and your work. Which brings me to my question: I notice that in a lot of your posts, folks address you by Uri, or Hofi, or Mr. Hofi. I've personally never thought it sounded overly respectful to address a person by their last name alone, with no Sir, or Mrs., or so on.
So, would you happen to have a preference as to how you'd like to be addressed? Now, on the other end of the spectrum, you and anyone else can call me whatever you like, be it Robert, Bob, Bobby, Rhrocker, Rocker, Hey You!, nothing offends me, I just happy when someone wants to chat with me, or about me (usually).
Anyway, I just wanted to clear this up in my mind anyway. After all, no one that I know of addresses Frank as Turley!
Robert

The Oklahoma group, http://www.saltforkcraftsmen.org, had some nice, 3' tall mandrels cast as a fund raiser. See their home page for sale information.

Hey Frank, thanks. I've got one of their swage blocks, plus have ordered a few more that friends wanted. However on the cone, I'm wanting to stay "authenic" to retain it's value (and hopefully gain some over the years). I did inquire about the Saltforks cones a while back, and they're very nice and well made (and very reasonable!). I guess part of my hobby is collecting blacksmith items from the past, to have and enjoy. Maybe it's part of my "retirement" package one of these years.
Speaking of Saltfork, I recently re-watched a DVD I got from Roger Degner(sp?) where you put on a 2 day seminar at their place. You are absolutely packed full of information. Is a book in the works? If not, it sure should be, it'll help preserve and carry your legacy.
Speaking of you, I remember reading about a couple of our esteemed brethern, maybe Clay Spencer and another one of the big dogs, watching you at a seminar. After you finished a procedure you were demonstrating, Clay (or whoever) turned to the other smith and said "You have just witnessed a forge-weld in slow motion". I always got a kick out of that. :D

yeah, I've been looking for a cone mandrel for some time now (to use, not display in my living room). They're awfully hard to come by on Ebay. I just don't have that kind of
money to pay a premium for something like that. However I do realize that they're not making the old ones anymore, so you just gotta bite the bullet sometimes. But, for now, I'm still coneless in Texas. Did get a nice large swage block awhile back. A little over 300 pounds, but it was a bit high also, not to mention the shipping. Might make a great end table when I retire!

One of my favorites.

There's Wendy! I like your photo also. Just something about a girl doing what
men mostly are known to do. Shows a lot of spirit.

So Frank, you're saying Yes? No? Maybe sometimes? :blink:

Lyle, you've done a really nice job on Aaron's seminar with Brian. Well, actually you 've done a nice job on everybody's
session that you've photoed. Sure does make it interesting for the rest of us, and he'll have a good pictorial documentory for the rest of his blacksmith life showing where and how and who with, it all began.

That stack of tooling you guys made is very impressive. I love all the chisels, fullers, well heck, everything. What is the
reason for the one strip of steel with the series of round holes followed up with square punched holes? Sort of a practice strip?
And the hammers! I thought Brian would make "a" hammer for a student, but Aaron has several of them, all differienc sizes and for various purposes I guess.

Anyway, good job to you, Aaron, and Brian. Please continue with the practice of photographing students, we all get something out of it, or at least I sure do.

Here is the first firing of my little forge. The itc-100 has dried completely and my 0-30psi regulator came in so its ON!! I slowly worked the regulator up to 20 psi in increments of 5 over about 20 min to allow it come up to temp slowly. The railroad spike was in the forge for just under 2 minutes!! I'm loving it already!! Cant wait till my next stretch off work so i can play. Let me know what yall think.

I think you've done a great job with your forge! You'll get lots of use from it as long as you keep it in good shape, meaning mostly the wool lining. You mentioned you're running it at 20 psi. That seems a bit high, I usually keep mine around 6 to 12 psi depending on what I'm doing. Some guys even run theirs at like 2 and 3 psi, but I think those are mostly blown forges and don't need to extra push to pull the air in.
Anyway, congradulations, and go make something and shoot a photo of it.
This group loooooves pictures.

Yeah, I had planned to do 2 layers Thomas if I went with 2"... I just wasn't sure if 2" was needed or if it was just a slight improvement.

Mac, in your first sentence above it almost sounds like you're thinking about 2 layers of 2" kaowool (4"!). If that's right, a single layer of 2" blanket is all that you should need (or 2 layers of 1" blanket.)

Well, I don't think the steel gives a rat rip what our "intent" is. If I forge a piece of air-hardening steel, it's going to be hard after it cools down regardless of my intent. So why is it hard, if it hasn't been heat treated? If I sent it out for analysis, the report would say "heat treated".




Good example Grant. Up until I read Grants post here, I was standing by my "yes" answer. So now I'm for sure staying with it. It just makes sense, but I'm not conversant
in Metalurgy at all, so I'm really not 100% sure of what Frank is hatching up here for us. He's probably horselaughing at the monitor right now. For the record, I can't dispute Patrick's information however, but being a blacksmithing bladesmith (bladesmithing blacksmith?), and looking at it from that perspective, I'll stay with "yes" to the question.

Put those rebar cut offs to good use Brian & Mark!







#18's from ND missile site

PS Brian, I have anvil envy.

Wow Cretedog! I'd love to have a chunk of really BIG rebar like your pencil holder. Any chance of buying a 12" piece??
Robert in Texas

I'd vote yes Frank, because hot forging will re-arrange the structure of the steel. So I'd think that it's a treatment of the steel just based on that. Also, almost everyone advocates that while forging, a blade for example, that the temp of the forge be reduced with each forging cycle because in part of the grain growth that heat can cause.
Robert

That hammer does have big cheeks
Judging from the way Aaron is doing the slitting and
drifting, I'd say that he has a good eye for this. Spacing
seems right on. Now about that bird sitting in the gravel, and Aarons bird-eating smile in the next picture, he must have eaten that thing for dinner!
You guys are having way to much fun!

Hi there PM. You'll enjoy this website. There's a lot of experience here, and I've yet to see a question that couldn't be answered. I'm new (to the forum) myself and really enjoy being here. If you have time, try and go back and read the past pages of the various forums, lots and lots of good stuff there.
If you need help, one of the experts will jump in and give you a hand with your question. BTW, just where is Cape Breton Island?
It's good that there's a blacksmith club there. That'll put you way ahead.
Welcome!
Robert in Texas

Edit: I googled and found your home. Looks beautiful!

Great shots Lyle! Great work Brian! Aaron, you must be having the time of your life!
Robert

Stebblinger, that'll work to some degree. I wouldn't worry to much about specific temps unless you have a way to measure them, but using the magnet is a sure fire method. Another important part is a good slow cool, like putting the file in vermiculite, wood ash, or even leaving it in your forge (if gas) and closing off the chamber. An overnight cooldown is best for this method. Then test the file with another file. If you can take "bites" out of your hopefully annealed file, then you're good to go. However, if the file skates off of the annealed file, then you need to repeat and try and cool slower.
All of this being said, good quality knife steel is readily availiable from many places, and could be your best bet for a good knife. If the file you want to use is a currently made product, it may be case hardened, and only a fraction of the
surface is hardened.
Keep us posted and we'll try to help you along. Welcome to th e forum BTW!
Robert

Re cast iron, a fellow named Cracked Anvil once told me that cast iron was an amalgam of molasses, sawdust, and baby caca.

:D

What a vision! I can look at a pile of parts on the ground, and that's the closest they'll get to being art, just a pile of parts. All of the animals are great, but I especially love the Roo. Using the concrete mixer for the pouch was simply
brilliant. This stuff would be worth $1,000's and $1,000's to the right
person. Somewhere there's a designer looking for this exact type of art.
It really needs to be on display in a large park in Perth or Sidney or wherever you're closest to. I sure appreciate you letting us see this, in fact I'm honored that you did!
I told you the piece I liked the most, but of course the most magnificant piece is the eagle. Just pure art, all of it.
Thanks,
Robert

Kewl Beans! Now don't wear it out in the first year! Something like what you have there is what I had in mind until I got my PW about 7 miles from my shop. That sure is one shiny beautiful anvil! Congradulations!
Robert

Don't know who Tommy is save for my Father who is still called Tommy by the family in his mid 70's. I'm Thomas or to family---Tom-boy in my mid 50's.

I get most of my non-ferrous materials from the local non-ferrous scrap yard, they often have neat rectangular copper wire from old large transformers. The brass was there off and on.

OTOH you could always buy brazing rod and anneal it and wrap with it.

Well I sure did didn't I (address you as Tommy). Didn't even realize it at the time. I tried the welding rod bit years ago, squishing it in my
Say-Mak, but it work hardens of course, and as I'd try to anneal it in the forge I could
watch pieces of it fall onto the forge floor from getting to hot. Then I'd run it through faster, wouldn't anneal. Got frustrated and said no more.