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  1. BP001 Easy to make tongs By Whitesmith Copyright 2002 IForgeIron Blueprints Copyright 2002 - 2017 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved. BP001 Easy to make tongs by Whitesmith Whitesmith is a 10 year old that provided IForgeIron with the following easy to make tongs. Start with 2 pieces of 1/4" x 3/4" x 20" long flat bar. Drill, or heat and drift, a 1/4" hole, 3 inches from one end, and in the center of the bar. Insert a piece of 1/4" round rod into the hole. Put a vise grip on the handle end to hold the two pieces together and heat the working end of the tongs to orange in the forge. Place the tong end in a vise. Put a crescent wrench just under the piece of 1/4" round rod and adjust the vise so there is about 1 inch of space between the bottom of the wrench and the top of the vise. Turn the wrench 90 degrees or 1/4 turn. You are turning BOTH pieces of bar stock at the same time, and in the same direction. This shows how it looks from the top and the side. Remove the rod. Heat the tong end in the forge and then shape it for what you want it to do. This set of tongs was being built to hold 1/4" round stock. The tongs can be taken apart and worked easily in the forge. When you want to see how you did, put them back together with the rod. When you have the tongs shaped the way you want, heat the end of the 1/4" round rod and put it in the hole in the tongs. Clamp it in the vise and pein the end of the rod to form a rivet head Once you have made a rivet head from the end of the rod, cut the other end of the rod off, leaving enough rod to make a rivet head on that side too. Put the whole thing in the fire and get just the end of the rivet hot. You can make the rivet head with the rod cold, but a little bit of heat makes it work a lot better. Put it on the anvil and pein the end over to form a rivet head. Be careful not to get it too tight. You can always make it tighter later, just pein it again, but you can not make it loosen up by hitting it with the hammer. Note: For the rivet, leave about 1-1/2 times the diameter of the rod to make the rivet head These tongs have just about the right space at the end of the handle to work for me. You can heat and bend the handles to adjust the space to fit your hands. These are not heavy tongs, and will not do the work of heavy tongs, but they will do a lot of work and are quick and easy to make.
  2. A wire brush and a little paint can inprove the looks of most things. There was a lot of rust pitting on the mower deck, so it had to be removed, completely wire brushed top and bottom, and then painted. I found two spray cans in the blacksmith shop that had been on the shelf way too long. They were looking for a project so the deck is blue.
  3. Neighbor had a Sears lawn mower that the Sears repairman could not get to run. She knows "I do blacksmithing" and ask if I wanted it. This is what we brought home. Carb needed cleaned, the loose parts were put back on, and it fired right up. Now we are trying to grease in ALL the fittings, straighten the blades, and give it a once over for any problems. There is some rust on it but nothing a wire brush and some paint won't cure. I told her I would cut her smallish yard for the rest of the summer in return for the mower.
  4. Forging a 7/16" dia. tenon on 5/8" square with a power hammer
  5. Forging a round ball on 1-1/2" square with a power hammer
  6. whitesmith

    metal forge

  7. test test armor
  8. Changing the shape of metal
  9. whitesmith


  10. IForgeIron Blueprints Copyright 2002 - 2007 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved. BP0166 Hammer Stand by Glenn Conner and Sean Conner (Whitesmith) You have to start with something, and lacking a plow disk (the most popular item for a base) I grabbed a tire rim. Next came a piece of 5/16" plate steel and a section of 1-1/8" pipe. Yes it is bent on the end, but I plan to cut that off and use it later. Then I found the section of 3/4" pipe had a bend on one end also.. I put a piece of angle iron against the 1/2" pipe and the start of the bend is indicated by the gap and the soapstone mark. The piece of 1-1/8" pipe was used as a close line in a former life and still had nails to attach the lines. The center was located in the plate by drawing a line from corner to corner. A good support for the 1/2" center pipe was made by welding on 4 pieces of flatbar. This would also serve as a support for the shelf I wanted to put at the bottom of the hammer stand. The welds look poor as I gathered up partially used welding rods laying about and finished them off on this project. The pipe and flat bar was then welded to the wheel rim from the inside. Looked like this when it was finished. Next I clamped some 1/4" round stock to a section of 1-1/2" pipe. A few turns later I had a coil of 2" diameter rings. All you had to do was to cut them apart. Using the same technique, I formed a 3" diameter circle from 1/4" x 1/2" flatbar. Just clamp and cold bend it around the pipe. The finished ring ready to be cut from the bar of stock. With a 2" long section of 1-1/8" pipe as the hub, and the 3" ring as the outside of the wheel, I placed the 2" diameter rings to hold the hammers on the outside. This would hold 7 handles. The outside diameter of the assembly measured 7". Using 1/4" x 3/4" flat bar, I cold formed a 7" circle for the second level of hammers. Again, with a 2" length of 1-1/8" pipe in the center as the hub, the 7" ring as the wheel, I placed the 2" rings around the outside and found that it took 12 rings. The outside diameter of the whole thing was 14". I would use 15" as the ring size for the next level of hammers ( a thrid tier if needed) All that is needed now is to cut the 4 spokes and make the wheels. The 2" section of 1-1/8" pipe would just fit over the 1/2" pipe welded to the wheel rim and give room for adjustments in height as well as a pivot to turn the hammer tier a little. This is the finished hammer stand. You can see the 2" sections of 1-1/8" pipe used for height adjustment. If you need more room between tiers, add a 2" lenght of 1-1/8" pipe. The extra adjustment pieces were placed on top of the stand. Top row holds 7 hammers, second tier holds 12 hammers. Third tier would hold 15 to 20 more I would guess. Or 15 to 20 rings for tongs, etc. As this was all assembled from scrap parts. I have about 10" of the inside pipe, only the crushed end of the outside pipe, one ring, one spoke (that I cut too short), and a couple of partially used welding rods left over. Even the 1/4" round bar was from the scrap bin. I had to sand the rust off the round bar before I formed the rings. There were only a couple of 1-1/2" sections of 1/4" round as leftover scrap. After using the hammer stand only a couple of days, the following design changes were made. I located a heavy flywheel from a vehicle, that was almost 1" thick. That is a welding rod to show scale. It was welded it to the bottom of the tire rim. This extra weight was needed in my opinion to help balance the hammer tree. A ring was constructed by cold bending 1/4" x 3/4" flatbar to form a 15" diameter ring. 1/4" round stock was used to form 26 ea 2" circles and were welded to the outside of the 15" ring. 1/4" x 3/4" flatbar was used to form the 4 spokes. Another 9 ea 2" circles were welded to the inside, 3 circles between each spoke. This is the third tier of 26+9 or 35 rings for hammers tongs etc. I used a marker and labeled each hammer with the head weight. This is to better locate the size hammer I need, till I get to know where they live by location. To do this again, I would build 2 tiers of 35 rings, and a third tier of 12 rings. You most likely will fill it up at some point. The 1-1/8" pipe was galvanized. Once the heat of the weld hit the galvanized it put off a white cloud of zinc fumes. At the first indication of zinc, I stopped and even though working on the outside table, set up a ventalation fan to blow any zinc away. Had I known this at the start, I most likely would have chosen another pipe for the project. I do NOT like working with galvanized !! That stuff is nasty - look up "fume feaver" and "heavy metal poisioning" on the internet, and then decide if YOU want to work with galvanized. During the review process it was pointed out that the warning on working with zinc was not stated strongly enough. It was brought to my attention that the affects of zinc (and many other heavy metals) are accumulative. A little now, a little later, and you add the two together. There is no set amount as to when it affects the body as each individual is different. Always use caution when working, as personal safety is just that - PERSONAL safety. Your responsible for keeping YOU safe. If I were to build another stand, I would make two of he bottom larger rings for the stand. They have been used more than I would have guessed. The top ring has taken on a secondary storage function for those hammers used often but not on a daily basis. IF I did not have this tool in my shop I would build another one as it has cleared up much drawer space and keeps the hammers within easy reach.
  11. IForgeIron Blueprints Copyright 2002 - 2007 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved. BP0165 Pry Bar from Car Parts by Glenn Conner, Sean Conner (Whitesmith) Start with the stearing linkage from a vehicle. Put it in the forge and get it hot. Drive the ball joint out of the linkage. This one did not want to cooperate, so with the aid of the hot cutter, I changed the design of the bar. As you can see, the hot cutter did not realize that I did not want the bolt cut, so it shaved about 1/4" from the side of the bolt. Take another heat. Yes, I am using a good bit of air, but you have to remember this is 1-1/8" dia stock and the end is larger than that in size. Knock the bolt out. and finish hot cutting. You can tell when your almost through the metal, as the thin section looses heat fast and forms a dark line. You can see the section that is still joined in the middle that is still attached. Upset the end and form what ever shape you desire for the end of the bar. I wanted a flat bottom on this bar for getting close to the floor. You can see the results of the upsetting. If you leave the end alone, it makes a very nice hand grip for the end of the bar. Just be sure to align this grip to the position of the hand when forming the working end of the bar. The grip does fit the hand better one way then another when rotated. What to do with the "other" end ? My purpose for making my bar called for a narrow wedge. With a thin section. These are the "pocket pieces" from this project. Pocket pieces are the left overs from any project that go into the pocket for use later. This just looks like a small ball swedge to me. I will weld it to a hardie plate later. Use it as you would any ball pein hammer, but this would be stationary with the metal placed against it and hit. It gives a bit of a different result.
  12. IForgeIron Blueprints Copyright 2002 - 2007 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved. BP0164 Short Pry Bar by Sean Conner (Whitesmith), Glenn Conner Start with an old lug wrench used to change the tire on a car. Heat up the bend. Straighten out the bend. Check to see that it is straight. Hold it against a dark background and rotate the bar. You can see the "high spot". Remember where it is and place it on the anvil and hit it on the high spot to correct the bend. DO NOT QUENCH !! Put it on the side of the forge to cool naturally. The ones that have been quenched all shattered at the bend, but the ones that were allowed to cool slowly have not. The socket on the end of the bar is a great stopping point for the hand when you hold on to the bar. Because it is short, you can use it in tight places. If you want to rework the end into something other than a screwdriver, that is OK too. Maybe a little bend like a crow bar would have. Just remember that this is not the best steel and is not intended for heavy work.
  13. IForgeIron Blueprints Copyright 2002 - 2007 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved. BP0143 Free Saw Blades by Whitesmith aka Sean Conner Many band saws use 1/2" wide blades. When they are retired from the band saw they are usually hung on the wall and later thrown away. These are the blades that we are going to reuse. If it looks like this, pass that section and keep looking. Find a section of saw blade that has all the teeth on about 10" of the blade. Find a section of saw blade that has all the teeth left. The factory blade has a 5/32" diameter hole to attach it to the hack saw frame. The length between the holes is 11-7/8" Overall length of the factory blade is 12-3/8". Mark that length on the bandsaw blade. Cut at the 12-3/8" mark. The hole is set in 1/4" from the end of the blade. Drill or punch the 5/32" hole at this location With a pair of tin ships, cut a 45* angle on the blade as shown. Make a second cut to sort of round the end of the blade. One of the five blades is a new factory blade that cost you a trip to town and a couple of bills. The other 4 blades were made in less time than it took to read this blueprint and cost nothing.
  14. IForgeIron Blueprints Copyright 2002 - 2007 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved. BP0010 Paint Markers by Glenn Conner and Sean Conner (Whitesmith) I found this paint marker at NAPA Auto Parts store the other day. It is the same one they use to identify and or write on the used car parts at the junk yard. Cost is less than $5.00 here. Welding supply, and industrial supply houses have simular markers either in stock or they can be ordered. Yellow seems to show up best on steel, but there are a variety of colors available. Works on the end of the bar stock. Is it 5/16", 1/4", or 11/32" ? I no longer have to guess at the thickness. When you cut the length you need, either cut the unmarked end, or mark both edges of the cut with the paint marker. Round stock requires a ruler to be sure of the size. Round stock is no longer a problem. And the "older" wrenches are easy to read now. Just put some of the paint into the stampings and wipe off the excess. Same thing for those hard to read indications on the chop saw. Now I can see the thing to make the correct adjustment. The paint marker is not the answer to everything, but it sure helps label the steel and stamping marks.