Maillemaker

Generally, a dagger has two bevels/edges, primarily used for thrusts and stabs. A knife is usually single-edged, used for slashing. However, there's a very large overlap.

chain links. You would do the welding, of course.

If you're not sure how to determine if a piece of steel is galvanized, place a small sample in a bowl of vinegar. If the steel begins to give off bubbles after a little bit, the specimen has a zinc coating.

If it is galvy, you can strip the coating with vinegar or another weak acid. File/sand between acid baths to make sure you get all of it.

Water dripping from a stalagtite. One specific stalagtite, in the center of town. From which, all other dwarven time pieces (water powered, mechanical, magical) are calibrated.

There was a study done several years ago where a soldier volunteered to spend several months in a facility where there were no clocks, or any other way to judge time. Eventually, scientists determined that without outside influence, his body ran on an approximately 25 hour schedule.

That's not really true. Granted, it'll take more work to pound round stock down into a knife blade, but it really comes down to how you heat the steel. You could have the strongest alloy steel in the world, but if you don't know how hot to work it, the steel could develop stress fractures, break outright, or burn.

If treated carefully, there's no difference in the grain structure between a flat bar and a rod. Worked within temperature range, and heat treated correctly, both will make fine knives, provided the steel itself is of knifemaking quality.

Good girls. Good Dad. I foresee many cherished memories and ironwork.

tempering can be done in the forge, you just have to be careful how you heat.

I'm looking to start a blacksmithing club at the University at Stevens Point. Just wanted to see who's in the area.

If you're in the Point area and willing to just talk forging, give me a shout.

The plan is in its infancy, so I wouldn't ask for demonstrations or anything.

do you leave the drift in the eye for drawing out the ears?

What steel did you use?

The katana (or samurai sword) was differentially tempered, with a blade that was hard enough to retain its edge, and a spine left soft to be flexible. Generally, these swords were used for personal duels, and rarely were they used against fully armored opponents.

Also, the combat techniques of the samurai were more fluid slicing, slashing motions, rather than a hack or a chop. Less shock for the blade.

How many welding heats do you usually take to "complete" a weld?

Now, I realize that "a weld" is a vague term, so let's say that you're welding two pieces of half inch square mild steel into a straight bar, using a drop-the-tongs or equivalent method.

I've been watching Mark Aspery's youtube videos on welding and scarf theory (a speedy recovery to him) and I've noticed that he usually only shows one welding heat.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ucfZIjAdXwM

I've also seen a video by The Ironwork Shop that advocates at least three heats to strengthen and refine the weld.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8jZDEtmDgxI

How many heats would be needed to sufficiently bond the two pieces together? Would the number of heats be different for decorative work than pieces subjected to twisting or bending forces?

what about a layer of sand?

that almost looks too pretty to use...

Some tools, such as the hardy chisel, or a powerhammer, are inherently dangerous. I always take the hardy out of the anvil the instant I'm done with it; the whole losing-fingers-thing is something I wish to avoid. Heated tools and stock should be quenched, or left to cool well out of harm's way. Hardened steel tools generally shouldn't make violent contact with other hardened tools. Things like that.

Gustav, I'm not sure. I could forge some brackets for it, or recess some slots in the back for screws. I'll ask the customer.

Look up "tong clips" or "tong rings". http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/1584-tong-rings/page__p__12010#entry12010

I put five railspikes to good use over my 4th of July break; see!

I'm actually northeast of Antigo a little ways, in Bryant.

I forged the nails too!

A friend of mine commissioned a coat rack for his apartment; the only requirements being that it have five hooks. So I fired up the forge, and this is what sprang out.

36" long, 5 3/4" wide, with spikes 6" on center. About four hours of smithing, $60.

How would one go about doing that?

You bend the ring open, weave it, then you force the ends together as you close the link.

What gauge wire and what diameter mandrel are you using? Looks like 1/2" or 5/8".

Check out http://mailleartisans.org. Pretty much the IFI of chainmail

Looks good for starting out. It looks like you use bolt cutters or aviation shears, correct? That being said, your closures could use some improvement. Try to butt the ends of the rings together so there is no gap.

Mr. Powers, most of the maille shirts I have seen have the "grain" running vertically, as shown in the photos.

I recently acquired a tomahawk from a friend. After some maintenance, I noticed a maker's mark stamped on the blade, as well as what look like powerhammer marks, both of which suggest that it is a genuine blacksmithed hawk.

The mark is ³J. Does anyone know who, or what company uses this mark?

Nice work!!! I like the swivel. But...... how does it work as a lamp?

The pan is filled with bacon grease, animal tallow, or wax. A wick, usually made of rolled cotton cloth or string, is rubbed with the fuel and placed in the pan. When the fuse is lit, the fuel is liquefied, and as it burns, more is drawn up from the reservoir through capillary action.