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I Forge Iron

utaholdiron

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Everything posted by utaholdiron

  1. Thanks for the info, arftist, that makes a lot of sense. The original pan was either rusted through or the forge heat over a period of time destroyed it. I don't know anything about lining a forge pan with clay but I'm assuming it is mixed with water first? Any info about that would be appreciated. Thanks, Alan.
  2. While trying to remove the blower blade assembly I managed to bend one of the blower gears! Here's how: I stuck the screwdriver handle into an opening on the gear and proceeded to try to loosen the nut holding the blades. I didn't push very hard, but did manage to bend the gear the screwdriver was in. The gear with the red markings. Now the blower "locks up" when I turn the crank. I want to remove the gear and see if it can be straightened. There's a two-sided nut on each end of the gear housing, but I don't have the right tool to loosen them. For future reference, does anyone know the correct way to remove that nut on the blade assembly. I already know the INCORRECT way! I like this unit, and have $200+ into it so far, but if I can't fix that gear I'll have to scrap the project. Any suggestions will be appreciated. I replaced the forge pan with a heavier gauge metal.
  3. While trying to loosen the nut holding the blower blades in place, I inadvertantly bent one of the blower's circular gears! I put the screwdriver handle through an opening on the side of the gear to keep the gears from turning as I pushed on the socket wrench. I didn't think I was applying all that much force but apparently I did because it ended up putting a wooble in the gear. Here's a mock up picture: The damaged gear has a brassy color and isn't nearly as hefty as the primary blower gear. Could it be made of a softer metal, and if so, why? It sits on top of the "spiral gear" that the blower blades attach to. Did the gearing cause the force of my action with the socket wrench to amplify and thus bend that gear? What would be the correct way to remove that nut without damaging anything? The damaged gear has the red markings. I want to remove the damaged gear, is there a special tool needed to remove these type nuts? The Champion #401 is really cool and I hate to scrap the restoration project. The forge pan was rusted out so I put in a new one of a heavier gauge metal.
  4. Thank you, now that I look at the numbers again, it is an A at the start. Here in low humidity Utah we don't have much of a problem with condensation rusting.
  5. Thanks for the info, it is nice and I got it for $125.
  6. Thanks, Sask Mark, I wasn't even able to see the 110 you refer to, I'll take a closer look.
  7. Any help with the markings on this anvil would be much appreciated. Is it possible to determine the age of the anvil from the marks on the front? It has the numbers 15136 with another mark on the left of them that looks somewhat like a 1. On the other side 07 is stamped, would that be the year manufactured (1907)? Under the horn on the front is another symbol. I'm including pictures. Thanks for the help, Alan.
  8. I can't tell for sure, but it appears not to be angled at all. How the drilling and tapping was done in such a small, tight space is beyond me. I have a welder friend, I'll see if he can do as you suggested. Thanks for the info.
  9. I was attempting to dismantle the gears, but came across a tiny bolt whose head was broken off. This particular bolt, when tightened, holds the largest blower gear to its shaft (axle). I can go no further till I figure out how the xxxx to loosen this tiny bolt. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I don't believe it's possible to use a "screw extractor" because of the close confines. Also, drilling out the broken bolt is not feasible for that same reason. I'm enclosing several pictures.
  10. I drove 70 miles one way and through a blizzard to buy this. I wasn't able to open the top of the blower and check the condition of the gears before I bought it, but it cranked smoothly and moved alot of air. I've since verified the gears are in great condition. I paid $200 for it, and although not a red hot bargain, I don't feel I got hurt too badly. As can be seen, the forge bed has been beefed up with 1/2" circular plate metal. I was able to put the whole thing in the trunk for the ride home. There's a quick disconnect that frees the blower from the forge, and the 4 legs also can be taken off quite easily.
  11. Is $300 a fair price for a 97# (0-3-13) Peter Wright anvil in fairly good condition? Any idea how old the anvil is?
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