Silent

That section of the forum is pretty hidden man I only noticed it because you guys referred tailgate. Im used to always see classifieds :p

 

Anyway made my post there. Thanks guys!

Its legal to own swords here, theres shops and stores of sword a nd knifes, all are XXXXXX wallhanger stainless steel though.

 

Legal to own collect, not carry out. I think thats clear, my question was where to cut the steel profiles that i already got.

 

And yes I intend to start making some knives, then tantos first.

 

Just asking where to cut the steel to keep some reserv bars, to make swords when i got the Expirience.

Hi,

AFter reading loads and lots :P

I dicided to give it a try, the main reason that got me into it has that, swords are iligal in my country, yeah I  can't import or buy even inside Europe.

 

Anyway, its has always been my dream to own a real japanese sword, and so on, u get it. u all get the thrill, its the same. Besides most japanese retail swords on market, xxxx compared to the real fully handmade and properly  DH HT blades.

 

The steel im using it got me even more fascinated into it cause I was able to find the very rare AISI 1080V in Europe.

 

Composition 

C: 0,75% - 0,85%
Si: 0,10% - 0,30%
Mn: 0,10% - 0,40%
P: Max 0,030%
S: Max 0,030%

Thats the standard Specs, with +Cr 0.5, V 0.16

I bought some flat bars with the following sizes:

6mm x 25mm x 1200 mm

6mm x 30mm x 1200 mm

 

 

I would like to cut off pieces of it in a way , the left over is enough to make a katana or Ko-katana.

 

 

I was thinking of cutting 30cm to make tantos of each and leave the rest,what i want to know is that proporcional, i never really forged anything yet so i dont have clear idea of how much it can extend or grow in lenght.

When you say leaves "scuffs", is it your existing hammer face that needs dressing, or are you not hitting the material square on, leaving edge dints from the hammer face?

A new hammer will not solve basic technique problems, and will probably have to be dressed to your liking anyway.

Pictures of the "scuffs" may help

The hammer i use, doesnt have a flat surface, it's irregular.

That's why im interested in a "Rough Forging hammer"(1,5kg) and a "Precise one."(1000gr Octavated)

I will buy 2 with cable, and One without. i just need to Choose.

Regards

I need Help Choosing some Hammers.

Im having some trouble forging the bevels (japanese Style) into my recent works. Sooo... im looking for a hammer that wont leave Scuffs that my older ones do.

The Steel i use is W1 with 0.85% Carbon or C80U/C80w2 or C105w1(because is easy to hammer), sizes 900mm x 30mm x 9 mm (Thick)

The Store

Regular Hammers
http://www.bricodap.com/contents/pt/d324.html
Martelo de pena 1500gr OSCA (OC01103P15)
13,10€

Heavy Stuff
http://www.bricodap.com/contents/pt/d326.html


This is what i was thinking to buy(Click Screarch , because Portuguese for you must be like a bora looking for a Palace xD)


1x Marreta - VITO (VI31xx) 1Kg (without Cable)
2,30€

1x Marreta 1,25K DIN6475 OSCA (OC01125P12) or 1,5Kg?
7,50€

1x Marreta oitavada 1000grs - VITO (VIM1000)
6,30€


Need some Help:P

Regards

1x

In Netherlands
http://www.vd-international.nl/

Tools Steel Suplier

Has C80w1/C80w2 and C105w1/C105w2.
Pay attention C80w1 and C80w2 aren't the same thing, as well as C105w1 and C105w2.

Regards

Maybe english isnt your first language. but could you clarify what you meant by the statement of "over .8% carbon wont fully harden?" As I totally disagree.

Actually my bad there. Yes English is not my first language.
What i meant was 1095 has more Carbon that it's required to fully harden steel(0.8/0.85), that is taking in consideration you are giving it the proper quenching Medium following the Chart to achieve Full Hardness.
So the rest of the Carbon won't go "in solution" , creating britleness , the rest of the carbites work to improve Edge retention.

Yap i concur with this statment, after you start doing blades aiming for hamon there are a lotof variables, just like when you Quench/harden it.

"Quench medium , quenchant temp , temp of steel , quench interuption, number and type of normalisations , blade section , clay type , clay thickness, clay pattern.
It can be a persuit all of its own . "

Regards

I think you might very well be correct about the reason why. It certainly explains the choice for 0,50% carbon, I never quite understood that part.
1069: I never saw this steel in particular anywhere, do you know where I can find information about it?

Also, I found a company who can supply me with C80W2 steel, here is an analysis:
C: 0,75% - 0,85%
Si: 0,10% - 0,30%
Mn: 0,10% - 0,40%
P: Max 0,030%
S: Max 0,030%
I think this steel will be perfect for creating a Hamon, and tough enough for a katana, what do you think?

Louis

C80w2 is what we Call AISI w1. But you know W1 varies from mill to Mill.
You can Find it in a lot of Places in Europe, Cheap!


About the Hamons:
1050 to 1095 and the W1/W2 series are Shallow Hardening , and you will get Hamons with them, if they are well treated.

AISI 1060, is a Good Baseline for longer Blades and Will make a Good Hamon. 1075 Too, a litle lesh flashy, but more defined though.
W1 Will be better then Any AISI 10XX Series (Even then 1095, because it has More then 0,8% Carbon wich , by logic doenst allow it to fully harden , and makes it a bit messy to Heat Treat when it Come to Long Blades, and you have very litle time when it Comes to Quenching Temps)

I wish you The best Luck. I wouldn't mind some W1 myself

Regards

Hi There C85w2 , just for the Record is W1 Steel.

Has we know the W1 batchs Carbon contents may change from Mill to Mill.

It's good Stuff, The Closer from it you can get with Simple Carbon Steels is AISI 1084.(Wich is Very good Too)

You can Quench in Water or Oil, dependes what you want, if You are doing japanese Style Blades you Probably Should Water Quench. But still you can just Pre-Curve then Quench you will still get Good Hamon With C80 w2(W1 Tool Steel).

If i were you:
With 1084, w1 or W2 i Would do a Interrupted Quench like Water 3 Seconds , Then Mar-Quench into Hot Oil(350 F).

Regards