kraythe

LOL, ok. Fair enough. I also use computers to learn about techniques, rather than be an apprentice for 30 years. I suppose I would just like to know more about the history of some tools.

I was talking to a colleague at my paying job about the hobby of blacksmithing. He was intrigued by the hobby as any good red blooded man would be but he asked a question that I wasn't prepared to answer. He asked what era of Blacksmihing I do. Now clearly I am not an iron age smith because I don't use charcoal or smelt my own iron. I don't avoid using modern electricity in my shop and I have an anvil (albeit small) tater than a piece of metal on a rock. When I look around the shop I see that in general I eschew some modern tools. I am building a treadle hammer, not a power hammer. If I had my Christmas wish I would have a fly press and I am not interested in hydraulic presses. I use an electric blower for my forge but that is mostly because I don't have an assistant to work bellows for me and I use propane but that is because my neighbors would go ballistic if I used coal (I might even prefer coal if I could use it). Other than that, I use a file and grinder interchangeably. I could live without the grinder if I had to. So historically where am I at? What would you think? And while we are on the subject can anyone recommend a good book about the history of blackithing including appearance of various tools? I look forward to your insight.

Thanks for the ideas on the floor. I have a ton of old OSB 3/4" sheets lying about and the bigger plate under the anvil is a good idea that I will have to check if it is possible. As for the forklift, I would like to be able to move stuff around the shop that is really heavy but also be able to load and unload stuff from my pickup truck if possible and the truck won't fit in the garage

I just got my book of plans for the grasshopper treadle hammer and I am really looking forward to building it. I just had one question about the foundation for the hammer. I could put it in my garage that doubles as my shop and bolt it to the floor through concrete anchors but I am concerned I will crack the floor with working with the hammer. What do you think? Would a garage floor be strong enough to handle the pressure? If not then I wonder what I can do as cutting up the floor and re-pouring is out of the question. Could I put an industral strength rubber mat under the hammer to cushion the blows between the floor and hammer? Then I could bolt through both the rubber and floor. What I worry about there is that I will diminish the capabilities of the hammer. Any advice would be appreciated. BTW anyone know where i can get an inexpensive 2k lb electric forklift or something similar to move heavy stuff around? I would love it cheap. I thought of an electric forklift but perhaps other people have better ideas.

nice video. Very inspirational to folk new to the craft like me.

I am rapidly outgrowing my first KAO Wool lined pipe forge. I have been playing with building some bookshelf brackets and a couple other ideas that my current forge is just too small to handle. On the other hand I don't want to heat a huge area when I am doing smaller things. So I have been thinking about a design for a Ribbon burner powered forge. As you guys are experts on this stuff, I though I would pick your brains on this if I may. The body will be constructed of 2x2x 1/8" wall angle for the corners on the outside and 2x2x1/8" flat stock for non corners or hot corners (where insulation meets on doors and so on. The left side door will fold down and the back and front doors will swing to the side. The floor will be insulating fire brick topped by hard fire brick. I wanted the stacked brick floor because it allows me to increase the size of the forge if needed and also when borax eats the floor, I can just toss the bricks and replace them. The walls will and ceiling be 2" thick KAO Wool type insulation with a 1/8" to 1/4" later of 3200 degree refractory mortar on top and finally a light layer of ITC 100. The ribbon burner will be the size of a fire brick and centered over the fire bricks. The hinges are designed to prevent any doors locking on another while providing maximum protection to the right side. I had thought about mounting a bracket for the blower directly to the right side of the forge but haven't come to a conclusion there. The whole structure will sit on top of a layer of insulating fire brick on my improvised forge table. Question 1: One thing I had been wondering is that i planned to use 2" of KAO Wool with the refractory mortar on top but could I compress the KAO Wool or would I reduce its heat insulation capability? I would like to keep the wall to 2" thick and if I could I would press it after applying the mortar so it cures smoothly and 2" total. Question 2: Do you think I have enough insulation on walls and sides to carry this off even at welding temps? Question 3: With the Refractory mortar on top and ITC-100 protecting the KAO Wool, do you think I would have a problem with 2370 degree rated KAO Wool at welding heat? It stands to reason the mortar and ITC would mean the KAO Wool would take less direct heat but I am not sure. Question 4: Are there any tips or bonding agents you could suggest for holding the KAO Wool to the wall and ceiling? I had planned to use a rigidizer but I don't want it separating from the metal shell. Question 5: WIth the insulation I have do you think I would be ok Mounting the blower to a bracket on the right side or would I be better off putting more distance between them? Please see renderings from my CAD program below. Thanks.

About the venturi or the blower? Which were you talking about? I wonder if there is some calculation about the number and size of holes for a given WCI pressure capability. Anyone know?

Would a venturi generate enough pressure in the plenum to push through the holes? Hmm I don't know if that would work, I would be interested in your results if you give it a try. I am also wondering if the 164 CFM blower from blacksmith depot would power my theoretical burner.

I am fairly new to smithing. I have made hooks and some other stuff but I tried my first forge weld today and I would like to know what you think. I have deliberately left the images high res so people could see the details. Essentially I took 3/8ths bar and bent it back on itself then covered the areas to be welded with borax and then heated it to fuming hot under high propane heat and then tapped it together then hammered it hard. Clearly on the bottom of the loop I have a bit of a cold shut for a bit but above that I THINK it is welded. I dont know how to make sure short of a destructive test. I suppose I could cut through it and see what I can see but I was wondering if anyone could look at my attempt, give me an opinion or suggestions and suggest a manner I could know pretty sure that it is actually welded. Thanks for looking.

First of all, since I am new here, please pardon if I ask silly questions. I have been reading a lot about ribbon burners on this site as well as this thread on another site. There is a lot of information all over the place but I still had some questions I hoped people would be able to answer. 1. Do the ribbon burners perform so much better over normal blown or venturi burners. 2. I realize the construction of a ribbon burner is much more complex but is it hard to get right? 3. I gather from the thread on the other site that the burner has a cavity behind the bore holes where the gas and air is mixed under pressure. Is there any requisite size to this? 4. Is there any size for the burner that is an upper or lower limit in the number of holes, size and so on. Could I make one 12" x 12" if I wanted? I am planning to have a 12"(l) x 9"(w) x 4.5"(h) forge that has both ends openable along with one side and using a fire brick floor composed of a layer of insulating brick then hard brick on top of that. 5. How do I know how much blower I need for the burner. I have been looking at the 164 cfm one on blacksmith depot and wondering if that would do the trick. 6. is there any issue with mounting the burner straight vertically or is coming in from the side better? would I be better off with something like a 6" x 9" top mount or something like two side mounted burners on the opposite sides? 7. would you coat the face of the burner with ITC100 to reduce it heating? 8. Given the premix in the tube, is there significant danger of flashback? 9. Is cast or drilled batter for burner construction. I can see advantages to both but I dont know how I would mount a drilled burner to the mixing chamber and achieve a good seal. Thanks a bunch for answering my tedious questions.

I am new here so please excuse any newbieness. I was wondering what your guys perspective is on waste oil vs propane forges. I was interested in terms of burner construction, fuel cost, heat capability (need to be able to weld), residues or contamination of metla and safety (shop is in the garage). Also do you know any good sites with info on waste oil burners? I have found a few for propane but not much on waste oil.