cvmikeray

I probably will not touch it. Just beat on it with respect. I just want to learn what I can and can't do. And I like the price of the used ones. I did not want to spend the dough on a new one now. I will probably settle on the Soderfors and sell the other two at some point and pick up a new 125 lb one that I can lug around. Still thinking about that part. I am still looking out for one over 400 to setup next to my forge area when I get it built.

Thanks !! I had already planned to attend and I also have contacted one of the members.

I am not bent on milling the faces, but the H-B is tool steel from the waist up and does not have a plate on top. Sooo it could be dressed up pretty easily? That waist up tool steel does expain the pronounced ring that it has compaired to the Soderfors. The Soderfors does have better spring though.

I am in Alabama and want to know where I can get get bituminous coal. You figure with all the coal fields in the state folks would be hockin it by the road side If you have source lists in your state that would be good on this thread also.

Can you hit the sides of it with a wire brush so we can see the markings. I think 1.50 to 2 is what it would bring here in Alabama. Where is the anvil located?

I then was able to tap the shaft for this gear out without the need of the press. The angle toothe gear was another matter. It has bushings on both sides. I tried to press the shaft out towards the thin stde of the case and that is when I got a crack. I pressed it the other way and it came out. The issue as you can see in one of the pictures the angle gear has a straight small gear that is the drive gear off the first gear I removed. it has a bushing with a flare on it that only lets it come out one way. So be carefull here. The output shaft appeared to be the same way and I was able to press it out towards the output shaft side. I found that the only thing I am going to need to really fix if the output shaft. I knew this and that is why I took the unit apart. More to come as I figure out how I am going to fix this thing. Havin fun !!!

Here a some of the pictures of the gear box disasembly. You will need a press to get some of these bushings out. I did have one issue where I did not have a good backing on the bottom and put a small crack in the case. I do not think this is an issue since I caught it before it actually broke. I will see. But that is a lesson learned an I hope these pics help others doing this same project. Once I opened the cover I had to figure out how the thing was put together. I saw some set screws and what I thought was a pin. I did not know if it was screwed in or press in. I figured it was press fitted so I tapped it with my rubber mallet and a blunt punch a few times. I got it to move so I grabbed it with the VG pliers and worked it out. I figured out after I got it out that the hole goes all the way through and the pin can be pressed or punched out the bottom into the crank case. Pulling out from the top worked fine also.

Well I guess i'll try this again. Typed a long winded post only to loose it. The life of blogging . Anyway I am rebuilding a Champion Lancaster #40 Blower. I picked it up a week ago and thought it was in pretty good condition. The castings and base are good, but the gear box has a few issues. Which were pointed out to me by the seller, and the price was right on the unit. $50.00 so I'll use it to learn these gear boxes a little and see if I can get it back in shape. So if you are hunting a blower do your homework and make sure you getting a solid unit before you go shopping. This unit had been repaired (rigged) at some point and the fan was welded to the output shaft of the gear box. I took a thin cut off wheel on my little buddy (4 inch Milwalkee grinder)and slowly worked my way around the shaft and removed the weld. I even managed to not screw up the fan or the shaft to much. I'll post a few pics of the clean up of the castings. I do not have before pics. Does anyone know if they put a glazing putty on these things before they painted them? Mine had this layer of crust on it that looked to be old body filler or something. Either that or this thing spent many years in a gunky place for sure !!!

I dug a little deeper when I went back to my shop. The anvil with the 8's on the feet is the Peter Wright not the one I suspect being a Hay Budden. That one (Hay Budden) does have a SN on the foot 156752. So I would still like to know if someone can tell me if it is a H-B or a Trenton.

Picture order. 1st 2 are the Soderfors, Middle 4 are Hay Budden ??, last three are Peter Wright. How D all !!! I am in Central Alabama and I am starting to collect all the tools I need to setup my forge. I started with these anvils. I went to get two but picked up the one with the hour glass bottom (Can yall tell me if it is a Hay Budden ??? ) and the horn is complete. It weighs about 220lbs on the scale we put it on. I was told this was a Trenton when I bought it, and I know they had a depression in the bottom, but after reading a bit, Trenton and Arm and Hammer have an oval bottom and the Hay Budden has a hour glass bottom. If it is a Hay Budden it would explain the faint markings I have in one of the PICS that shows B (I thought was an R) a bunch of space and then N.Y. Also it has a 21 on the tail and on the horn side of the foot it has two 8.s (not pictured) I also got a 198lb Soderfors. The guy I went to had just taken it in on a 400plus pounder that I really wanted. It has less ring than the first one I mentioned, but has a lot better spring. It rings good, just not as good at the other one. It also has a nice top and the edges are pretty good. The only issue is someone cut off the tip of the horn. Looks like to do some special stuff becuase it has a little dimple in the top of the horn right behind where it is cut off. The thrid one I bought it was painted solid silver and knew it was European style. Took a shot that it was a Peter Wright and it was once I stripped off the paint. I got this one (0-3-18) 102lbs becuase I can move it around and work it over if I want. Question on this one. Being soild Wrought Iron, did they harden the surfaces on this one? I would like to mill it a little to bring the faces back a little, but I do not want to ruin it. I paid a little over $2 a pound for these but I think they are good anvils. I will choose between the two lager ones once I get my forge setup and sell the other or trade it and something for a lager anvil. I want the 400 plus anvil to sit next to my forge an NEVER move !!!