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I Forge Iron

stuartthesmith2

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Posts posted by stuartthesmith2

  1. some guy in blacksburg virginia is selling a nice either peter wright or henry wright(peter's brother) 402 pound anvil for 800 dollars, which seems like a good deal.......the guy lost the letter from postman identifying his anvil as a probable "henry wright", but this anvil looks like a sweet one.

  2. In 1977, when I bought my williams 150 pound hammer, I had to pour babbit bearings. Other than oil and grease, this is the only maintainance I have done since then on this hammer. It is very similar to the champion trip hammer design, just as durable, and just as versitile........I highly recommend this hammer that some guy is selling right now on ebay! I run my hammer at up to four strokes a second, and I have done some hard pounding on my machine over the years. Nuff said!

  3. There is a magnificent trip hammer for sale on ebay right now, with only one day and change left. It is a Williams 100 lb. trip hammer. Some guy in wisconsen has it for sale, for $2000 bucks. I have an identical hammer in my shop, a williams 150 lber, which is 1/12 times as big as the one he has for sale. This hammer hits harder than any of the "popular" hammers, and is easy to maintain. I have been using my williams hammer for 30 some odd years, banging out thousands of slate shingle rippers, brick hammers, etc. The williams hammer is a workhorse!. The guy on ebay selling it doesn't realize what a treasure he has. I am hoping someone on iforgeiron grabs this hammer, it is a leaf-spring actuated hammer.

  4. I hope this tip helps a lot of blacksmiths working in cold climates. One of the tools that I manufacture are slate shingle rippers. My shop is in what is considered the "snow belt", high in the mountains of Northeastern Pennsylvania. At night, during the winter, it sometimes goes down to 20 degrees below zero farenheit. The handles of these tools are mild steel, forge welded to a 1080 blade which is drawn out under a triphammer and then flattened at the far end into a blade. As I was finishing forging out these high carbon blades, I would toss them on the floor to cool before grinding the blades later. After grinding and finishing them, usually about 100 of these tools at one time, I would send them out to a heat treater. To my absolute shock, a batch came back, ALL cracked on the blades where they have the groove for cutting nails going through slate shingles. I had forged these tools on a day in which the thermometer plummetted to 18 degrees below zero. After finishing the forgings, I had thrown these tools on the COLD FLOOR. The heat treater explained to me that at those ambient temperatures, the floor itself had HARDENED the blades unevenly, causing stresses in the forging. He recommended that I buy 100 lbs. of playground sand and put it in a large container. He suggested that before I forge any slate rippers in cold weather, that I heat up, in my forge, a six inch by six inch by six inch big block of steel welded to a long handle to a yellow heat, then immerse it into the sandbox, stirring the sand around this big block of hot steel to heat all the sand in the box. Then, as I finish forging slate rippers, he suggested that I "quench" the still-warm blades into the extremely hot sand, allowing the rippers to slowly cool down over the period of about 8 to ten hours. By annealing the blades in this manner, it eliminated my problem! I never had a problem with my forgings cracking like that again from accidentally hardening them on my cold floor. I hope this tip helps some people.

  5. My blacksmith shop is in the basement of a 40x60 cowbarn that I converted into a shop. Most of the floor is concrete. Thirty five years ago, I removed the cow stantions in favor of shop space for forges, triphammers, and all other manner of blacksmithania. On part of my floor, it was dirt, rather than concrete. For more than thirty years, I have been mixing clinker, ash, and playground sand to make a very nice floor in that section of the barn. Concrete floors stress a blacksmith's legs, so the composite of clinker, ash, and sand make a wonderful floor for a blacksmith shop. You could imagine how much clinker and ash I have created over three decades! My next project will be to clinker my driveway down to the doors of my shop!!! That should take a couple of decades too!

  6. forge without leaving hammermarks,,,,,,flatters are unnecessary if you have hammer angle control, which takes practice.............you will eventually learn to forge without leaving hammer marks.............it takes a ton of practice.....practice...........practice...........

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