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I Forge Iron

Chance

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Posts posted by Chance

  1. No no thank you for what you have past on to me I have looked around maybe not enough yet have did lots or reading . I am sure it is on here and I have just missed it . I am looking to use soft steel in the center that will contrast . I will do some more searching and reading on here and maybe just go waist some time and coal and see what happens . worst that can happen  is it fails and I learn something . again thank you

  2. Rebar I am not fond of but i was listing what I had on hand . I am sorry if I did list every thing needed . The enchant will be home made vinegar . I would like it to be  say a medium contrast in the gray ranges . the pattern  i would like is straight down the middle ridge straight with twist raped around it as the next layer then twist around that fowled by 5160 as the blade. if this helps    5160{t{ts{s}ts}t}5160   . i will have to go out and get some clay and try it out . after every thing is said crap shoot is ok but a known waist  of time  i am not up for .would mild steel and RRspike contrast .

  3. OK to lay it out I have forged welded 5160 bits to mild steel for more then a few axe heads and blade edges . I also made a billet of lumber band some kind of saw blade and some kind of wire in to a random twist for a friend to do stock removal dagger looked fine . Question is  rail spike mild steel rebar (sucker rod i think) what would look good together for a spear head . There will be a 5160 or some other decent blade edge steel around it . blade will be 12 to 16 inch plus the socket so 20 t0 30 overall. just after thoughts before I do something to silly  .  Think I found an ash tree to split for shafts .

  4. I an trying to make a Viking like spear.  The shaft is where I am stuck in the past I just went to a big box and picked up dowel. this time I am going in to the bush and chopping down what I need. I had in my head that the Vikings would split it out of a log and work it round . now I see people saying use a sapling . any one out there have a idea how Vikings did it . the plan is that this year is to forge a pattern welded head as well then maybe even do my own smelting . yes I am even using hand forged axes to do the chopping .

  5. I do have my mixed oil hot (I know I could use better oil then what I do just a mix or motor and canola oil and what ever gets in it ) . few chunks of mild steel made red hot and tossed in (the flair up is all ways fun :) ) . I am game to try new things out so do you heat quench and repeat right out of the quench or is there a cool down time . I have some spear heads I an "aboot" to make out of 5160 . I would like to try it out .

  6. can I ask triple hardening how dose this help on 5160 (and I really like 5160) I understand 3 or 4 rounds of normalizing really worked steel . I often temper in oven and then do draw tempering on the back of middle depending on blade style . hardening more then once ? . I bring the heat up slow and soak it trying to get a even heat through out and quench in a large amount of oil . now I can believe it would help just not getting my head wrapped around . can you point me to a link or just a quick few words on it . and I will try not to talk to funny for you ;) .

  7. I say use the pipe but weld or forge weld a bit in to it say a chunk form and old shovel it would be fast .cut parts with grinder or the like and your socket is all ready done . I did that type of thing for some spear heads but used old chevy spring  for the pointy bits . worked well looked like hell . see if I can dig one up may be one in my shop stuff ends up there to die .

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