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I Forge Iron

Suboc

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Posts posted by Suboc

  1. Well I've learned to look close, and for the most part the hammer was in good shape. The dies that were on it looked custom, a flat spot and two different tapered cuts. They look like dies for sharpening jack hammer bits and had a key-way taper that was different from the original. Luckily the bearings were still good so I didnt have to re-pour them. The bearing caps had been welded shut on top and a grease fitting was installed. Someone had modified the linkage so there was no feathering the clutch. I ended up re-building both treadle rods and the clutch fork. The worst part however was the ram that I had to send to Sid to have the dovetail re-cut. Whoever was running the hammer drove whatever pieces of steel and mis-matched keys in to hold the dies in place, so the dovetail was pretty buggered up. The sow blocks dovetail was clean. I went ahead and sent both the toggle arms and links to Sid as well to be re-welded and drilled. Everything is now tight and the hammer runs smooth.
    Next on the list is a Nazel, I would love to find a one piece 2-B although I'm not sure what critical areas to look at that can end up being costly to repair.
    Dan

  2. Just found these photos. I picked this hammer up around six years ago. It came out of a Mine in New Mexico. I saved it from being scrapped. Unfortunatly I was unable to get anything else before the building and its entire contents were scrapped. This include platten tables, racks of hundreds of tongs, spring tools,and a large Chambersburg. Wish I had had my camera that day, the place looked like the blacksmiths had just laid their tools down and walked out of the shop.

    Dan
    Tucson, Az.

    post-13715-0-93231400-1301621820_thumb.j

    post-13715-0-67905300-1301633693_thumb.j

    post-13715-0-29892500-1301633723_thumb.j

  3. This is my first post. I was reading your question, and although I don't know what they are made of, I have used them for years as table leg ends, and in sculpture. The only way I have had any luck working with them is to pre heat if welding to them, or they can be drilled and tapped but only after I heat them to glowing in the forge, and then allow them to slowly cool.

    Dan
    Tucson

    post-13715-0-35329700-1294196005_thumb.j

    post-13715-0-94348600-1294196047_thumb.j

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