wathomas

The ends of links were turned from bar stock and bored for a .002" press of the bronze bushings. Used idea from this forum making up fixture when it was time to weld [aux plates with spaced holes and angled temporary bushings that align the ends of links). couple more views as details were mocked up The bearing hub is mounted on a really heavy angle (1-1/8" section) that was bored and then drilled on Kearney Trecker Rotary D The wheel is "permanently" mounted...without cutting the center crank pin plate off the wheel there is no getting at the lugs, so they are torqued tight with impact wrench. The crank plate/center section is approx 1" thick and has a turned crank pin 1" diameter. the crank pin is pressed into a through drilled hole and welded to the 1" thick disc which is itself welded to the wheel...tried to be careful to get it "square". WHY? well that is the spare I had that fit the bearing hub...I wanted the "overhang to be minimal" so I mounted same way as it mounts on the vehicle and this solution used pieces I had and so appealed to me. Making another wheel/crank pin would be pretty quick..getting this one apart not so quick but its a design trade off I made and will live with. The counterweight is something I am still noodling on.

I don't want to tick off the communitty but I wanted to use materials I had on hand as much as possible...so I didn't order the PLANS that I have seen referenced in several archived posts. My reasoning , I knew for the most part I would be making a lot of substitutions since I was not intending to go shopping for materials that would be specified in any detailed plans. (I think I read 40 pages of detail...that also wasn't appealing wanted to work with what I had and make best use of what was on hand. So I downloaded GOOGLE "tire hammer images". Started by building the "ends" for the links since I was using bronze bushings I had on hand. I had 5 that are 7/8" ID and 3 that were 3/4" ID ...well used 4 of the 7/8" and 2 of te 3/4"...that sort of decision making kind of gave design direction. May do some spring swapping down the road...but my "tupper" [read hammer] is solid hot rolled and 15-1/2" long and weighs 37 or 40 pounds without the dies or those pieces you see welded on (that is approx with a bath scale). Here are some views of construction; tupper being machined on 1930's G&E 16" toolroom (that is a universal 16" G&E Industrial in background)...the 16" was rebuilt along the way by someone much more skilled than I am and it is very capable along the full length still the tupper now machining each end and will be drilled for 2 threaded holes to mount die plate using K&T Horizontal model H

Probably not understandable as written. I started constructing a tire hammer. I am trying to choose a spring (prefereably from something in my bin of treasures). The one on the far right is 1/2 round coil stock...it was in an "equipment shock absorber pad mount" [sort of thing you put under a large industrial A/C unit as vibration isolator. Next is the smaller ID and .340" round coil stock. Both are 6" long. Two on left are die springs ...one has square coil stock about .250" and is the stiffest of the lot.

I have never seen a tire hammer except the internet. Q: found a post on LG spring sizes. Do tire hammer springs usually follow same approXimate size? REF LG[ 25 # 1.5" ID X 4.5" Long w 6.5 coils of 1/2" cross section ; 50# 1.75" ID X 5.5" to 6.375" Long w 6.75 to 7.25 coils 5/8 cross section) I have a couple of candidates ...on a tire hammer with approx 40 pound hammer what is more likely to be a good choice? 1.850" ID X 6" Long w 8 coils of .340 cross section wire or 2.750" ID X 6" Long w 6 coils of .500 cross section wire I have some die springs but concerned these may be too stiff (but saw a post by "Dodge" that looks like his tire hammer [very nice BTW] is using a die spring) Thank you for considering...if I had seen some tire hammers in the flesh I might have a better idea about the springs

I was able to make an appointment and visited the anvil shortly after it was listed on C/L. (it is about 15-20 minutes from me). The owner is eastern european and I found him to be interesting to talk with. His family had a machine shop as he was growing up and he has worked with heavy construction equipmentand seemingly isn't afraid to tackle projects of all sorts. He is not a blacksmith and has never used the anvil but in talking with him and judging by the property he is a buyer/seller of implements of all sorts. If you face the anvil with the horn to the left then the opposite side edge has some significant edge chipping....but not worn nearly as much if you don't object to working with he horn pointing to the right ...then the opposite side edge chipping is pretty minor. The face is not flat across the length but has smooth areas. I could not find markings regards maker. I think it has a welded face (maybe 5/8" or so). I did not buy it but that could be because I have very little experience examining anvils and don't know what i am looking at. My decision was mostly due to rebound. I really liked the size but it did not have anything near the rebound of my Hay Budden (163#). Maybe nearly 2X the mass would more than make up for the rebound. I was dropping a 1" ball bearing. BTW the weight may be a guess by the seller...that is impression I got. Meanwhile I didn't get any impression it was overstated...If I had "guessed the weight" I probably would have guessed "at least 300#" it is much much larger than my Hay Budden (about 29" w horn)...IIRC (not certain I looked at it several weeks ago) but I think the the 5" x 30" of this anvil is the width X length of the "flat" (and does not include the horn).