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I Forge Iron

s meyer

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Everything posted by s meyer

  1. I use vet grade minral oil. you can by it at feed stores. works great. I heat to about 140 deg.
  2. Thanks for the patent info very interesting. I was wondering whare you found your serinal #? I have looked an can't find one.
  3. I forgot to mention that the spring pack needs to be reveresed of that found in a car or truck. There is also good information over at anvilfire in ther JYH hammer section. A good drawing and explanation of how to set up this style spring.
  4. Hi here are the specs on my spring and toggle set up. The spring is 16 1/4 between the center of the pins and 9 1/2 from the tup pin to the top of the spring pack. There are 6 springs in the pack starting with the top, they are the following lengthes; top one is 5", the next is 29" to the loop of the eye, then 22" then 19 1/2", then 18", and finally 13". The main spring in the pack is about 5/16" thick and the others are around 3/16". The toggles are 10" long and they are adjusted to around 8" long. Hope this helps Steve
  5. If bladesmithing is your mane goal I would look at scrap yards for a square of 4140 and make a post anvil. My faverat bladesmithing anvil is 5 1/2" square by 20" long pece of 4140 set on end in a 6" sqare tube welded to a 1" by 22" plate for a base. The hole thing cost about $ 135.00 and works great. I have several nice standered anvils I use for genral blacksmithing but the post anvil gets used aloght.
  6. I would love to have the patent info. I hope you get this I am still figuring this out

  7. Francis I would love to have the patent info on the champion hammer. I hope you get this I am not shure if I am doing this the right way

  8. Francis Ya the overhead frame and pullyes are big. I thought about doing away with them but when I bought it we test ran it on a 1/2 or 3/4 horse motor and with all that rotating mass it actualy turned it over with little efort and the clutch worked real smooth. So I figured if it isn't broke why fix it. I like your hammer I saw the video you posted. Great job fixing it up. I think mine is about the same vintage with the same old style tredal. I tried responding to the mesage you sent me but I couldn't figure out how. I couldn't find a serial # but the pat. date is 1902.
  9. I reinforced where I cut the rafters and I will be replacing the section I cut away. I didn't want to cut them but there was no other way to get the pullyes into the frame. once I replace the cut out section the pullyes won't hit. I spent more time with the rafters and removing the wedges for the dies. than moving and making the foundation.
  10. Hi I thought I would post my new hammer. It's a #1 that I bought off of Clyde. It's the hammer that he and monstermetal talk about earlyer in this thread. I just go it monted to the foundation and the overhead pullys back on. I had to cut away part of the rafteres to make it all fit. The foudation is 40" square and 3' deep I made a reebar box and used 20 80# bags of concreat then there are 6x6 beems that are bolted together with allthread and sucured to the foudation with 3/4 allthread the hammer is fastened to the beems with 3/4 allthread that is screwed into plates that atach to the underside of the beems. I am working on combination dies and wating for a belt for the motor. I hope to have it running next week. Steve
  11. I've made a few and what i did to make welding easier was to attach the chain onto both sides of a old file with baling wire. Then you can hold onto everything easier. it takes more than one chain to make a average sized blade. good luck Steve
  12. Great vise I love old wilton vises. I enhareted half a dozen frum my grandfather. Never seen one broken. I have a big printas and a erwin that are big but I don't think thare that big and a asortment of others. I just can't pass them up if I see them at a good price. congrades. Steve
  13. My grandfather passed at the age of 96. He told me that he used to go to the gun shows and fle markets and he would see things he wanted real bad but the price would be outragus. Then a few years would pass and he would see the same item again and think wow I should have bought that one I saw a few years ago. He then told me If you really want sumthing and your planning on useing it than Look for a good deal and get it if you can. But if a good deal isn't available pay the going price and don't worry about it. I have paid what I considered grate prices for sum of my blacksmithing equipment and what I consider only fair prices for a few things. But in the end I have the things I want and need.
  14. Francis I saw your hammer photos and video and hope mine turns out half as nice. I cant find the serial # on my hammer. whare on the frunt of the anvil is It? I just got the hammer bolted to the base and need to get a moter and belt. My hammer is the one larry frum monster meatel talked about in th champion thread. I was luky to purchas it frum Clyde.

  15. Hi all I got for christmas was this old champion #1 power hammer My wife usaly gets me sumthing I can use like socks. I don't know what she was thinking this year allowing me to get sumthing so unnesasary like a big chunk of iron. You just can't figure wives out. Steve :D
  16. Hi all ~ I have been lurking for a while and this is my first post. I recently picked up a coal forge and have never seen a blower like this before. It has a Hamilton Beach motor that I think is DC. It has a coil to preheat the air and is variable speed with settings of hi, second, third and low along with the warm. It all looks factory and works. I'm hoping someone can identify it and let me know a little more about it. Up until now I have only used propane and this is my first solid fuel forge. Thanks, Steve
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