K A Willey

Happy hammering you will enjoy it, what is the serial # on the lower brass tag?

That hammers been for sale for quite awhile looks like the ram guide was broken and repaired and looks to be a good repair,  I'd buy it and run the hell out of it

They both serve a purpose and I use both but for MEamd MY situation I tend to use my hammers so much  more and alot more than the press when drawiing thin stock, If I were you find someone that has both and see if they will let you try them out and see which works best for the work YOU do. 

That suck least you found another one, the slippppppppppppppppppry soap would be good one. ya document the rebuild.

Neaves, did you ever get any of the parts back for your Beaudry? 

it needs no nut at all, as long as the crank pin nut is tight and you have tention on the bolt it will not come loose, all the bolt it for is to adjust the stroke , Pm me your email and i will send you some pics to you.

Looks good , Your hammer is based off the utility Beaudry as Will stated with the rollers externally, looks like you getting a nice action out of it and when you get it on a foundation it should  hit solid I saw one of your videos the other day on you tube, Beaudry's are a diasease  with me.

I built the rollers in my #4 and a spare set for the #7 out of 4340 and through hardened them  the tested out at 46 and are holding  up very well, a real easy way to check to make eure the rollers are turning is to put a paint pen dot on the end of the rollers facing you , if your tracks in the ram are smooth and egg shaped as they are suppossed to be they wont affect the ram till they start to rub on the axle  if they are rubbing you will see the wear on the ram you can get inside the ram through the hole or in the top with a small angle grinder or a die grinder if you have one and smooth it up with a cone stone then a flap wheel or disk , you may just need to feather the edge back, looks like they rusted pretty bad once. those rams were fit as cast with no machining and had to wear themselves in, there is alot of beef there,  if there isn't any humps and bumps in the egg shaped path or  to circle shaped  you shouldn't  need to do any welding on it, if you do weld on it normalize it for bout 2 days in a oven or you may end up cracking the ram down the road. I don't think I would mess with the pitman. If you true the saddle in the spring end, true it before you build the rollers , then build ther roller to match, got to be pretty careful there because whatever you take off effects everything else on the spring and the ram. clean and lube the ram constantly, oil the rollers with a light luberacateing oil everyday sometimes twice with heavy use,(same with the crank pitman and main bearing) stuff a sponge in the ram to soak up the oil ( a sponge if fittin the bottom of the ram tightly wount come out of the ram as when the ram really get to working a rag will come out some time an make a hell of a fire) I clean my rams once a month with brake clean to flush everything. dont lube the rollers with grease either it will get gummier than hell after awhile, if the rollers are always free and rolling that hammer will hit extremly hard and quick when you need it. These are some things I have found to work on my machines well , once you run your you will find what works for you.

Willey

I built the rollers in my #4 and a spare set for the #7 out of 4340 and through hardened them  the tested out at 46 and are holding  up very well, a real easy way to check to make eure the rollers are turning is to put a paint pen dot on the end of the rollers facing you , if your tracks in the ram are smooth and egg shaped as they are suppossed to be they wont affect the ram till they start to rub on the axle  if they are rubbing you will see the wear on the ram you can get inside the ram through the hole or in the top with a small angle grinder or a die grinder if you have one and smooth it up with a cone stone then a flap wheel or disk , you may just need to feather the edge back, looks like they rusted pretty bad once. those rams were fit as cast with no machining and had to wear themselves in, there is alot of beef there,  if there isn't any humps and bumps in the egg shaped path or  to circle shaped  you shouldn't  need to do any welding on it, if you do weld on it normalize it for bout 2 days in a oven or you may end up cracking the ram down the road. I don't think I would mess with the pitman. If you true the saddle in the spring end, true it before you build the rollers , then build ther roller to match, got to be pretty careful there because whatever you take off effects everything else on the spring and the ram. clean and lube the ram constantly, oil the rollers with a light luberacateing oil everyday sometimes twice with heavy use,(same with the crank pitman and main bearing) stuff a sponge in the ram to soak up the oil ( a sponge if fittin the bottom of the ram tightly wount come out of the ram as when the ram really get to working a rag will come out some time an make a hell of a fire) I clean my rams once a month with brake clean to flush everything. dont lube the rollers with grease either it will get gummier than hell after awhile, if the rollers are always free and rolling that hammer will hit extremly hard and quick when you need it. These are some things I have found to work on my machines well , once you run your you will find what works for you.

Willey

I built the rollers in my #4 and a spare set for the #7 out of 4340 and through hardened them  the tested out at 46 and are holding  up very well, a real easy way to check to make eure the rollers are turning is to put a paint pen dot on the end of the rollers facing you , if your tracks in the ram are smooth and egg shaped as they are suppossed to be they wont affect the ram till they start to rub on the axle  if they are rubbing you will see the wear on the ram you can get inside the ram through the hole or in the top with a small angle grinder or a die grinder if you have one and smooth it up with a cone stone then a flap wheel or disk , you may just need to feather the edge back, looks like they rusted pretty bad once. those rams were fit as cast with no machining and had to wear themselves in, there is alot of beef there,  if there isn't any humps and bumps in the egg shaped path or  to circle shaped  you shouldn't  need to do any welding on it, if you do weld on it normalize it for bout 2 days in a oven or you may end up cracking the ram down the road. I don't think I would mess with the pitman. If you true the saddle in the spring end, true it before you build the rollers , then build ther roller to match, got to be pretty careful there because whatever you take off effects everything else on the spring and the ram. clean and lube the ram constantly, oil the rollers with a light luberacateing oil everyday sometimes twice with heavy use,(same with the crank pitman and main bearing) stuff a sponge in the ram to soak up the oil ( a sponge if fittin the bottom of the ram tightly wount come out of the ram as when the ram really get to working a rag will come out some time an make a hell of a fire) I clean my rams once a month with brake clean to flush everything. dont lube the rollers with grease either it will get gummier than hell after awhile, if the rollers are always free and rolling that hammer will hit extremly hard and quick when you need it. These are some things I have found to work on my machines well , once you run your you will find what works for you.

Willey

Thanks Andrew, for the meausurements yours is identical to mine, mine is cast steel and also uses a wedge like yours heres a couple pics of the breaks they have been weld more than one time little hard to see cause off the sand blasting when I have time I will fix this one for a spare,grind on it allitle you'll be able to tell if yours is steel should throw a lot of sparks.

Yes, as I said above in the first post he does not have the correct part, had a couple close but not the right one

thanks
Willey

IronWolf, fabricating, the part is NOT the problem it is finding an original casting to finish the restoration of the hammer to it original state is the problem. As I stated in a previous post I can run the hammer with a different springbox but if it will hold out is the problem, If the previous owners of the hammer would have run the hammer with the ram in correctly ( ram was in the hammer backward and put severe strain on the part) the part should have never failed under normall useage.

Macbruce, I talked with Sid quite awhile ago and he didn't have anything,
I am probably going to have to have one cast off the original meausurements.

Thanks for your guys comments, not trying to sound like an ass just trying to explain what I am looking for
Willey

Bob, I can fabricate the part if I have to but I am restoring this hammer and would like to have an original to complete the hammer I have alternatives also just need to stay in the same weight range to keep it in balance , I would like to stay with the original design.if I can i can run the hammer now with an alterate set up but would rather not if I can .

Anybody got a springbox for a # 7 Beaudry Champion its a 200lb hammer the spring box of this hammer is past the point of repair it was broken when I got the hammer Didn't know it till i tore the hammer down I have complerely rebuilt this hammer and need a good spring box, this is my last avenue other than having one cast, if anyone out there has one or knows of one let me know , welding this one is not an option as it is past the point of return, the casting # on the front of the sring box is 24 a 34 may work if the meausurements are right, PM me if you have some thing, Wallace doesn't have one, I need to get this hammer running, I have a lot of work for it. It a long shot but it all I have at this point other than to have one cast.

Willey

Looks good , now you gotta get some scale on it!!

Looks like you had fun!!

Looks to be in good shape should be easy to clean up, should make somebody a nice little hammer.

That ones been on there awhile now, its only worth what someones willing to pay pretty good looking hammer seems alittle high but you never know they are a good machine when run properly ( as with all forging hammers) there are alot of people that will go with are at that price.

Making it woun't be hard just thought I would ask incase someone out there had one, I have every thing to build one just need to find the time to make the whole assembly, the whole thing is gone. thaks again

Thanks

Anybody have a screw for a 7 inch jawed leg vise?

That is a pretty neat hammer pretty close to a Beaudry it would be fun to see one up close if there are still any out there.

I took some pic last night but they didn;t turn out to good, PM me and I make a template for you and send it to you.

Willey

Beaudry made a Strap hammer that was a helve but it wasn't like the Bradley guided helve, I would bid on one the Bradley too they would both be a good hammers.