yllowcreak

On the point. Forge it first using the upper spine of the knife placed against the anvil and start forming the point. As the metal expand, hammer the sides of the blade to draw out the point. The point doesn't have to be perfect from the forging. If you want a false edge, sharpen the knife without the false edge, the cut down the spine for the false edge, file the false edge and you will have a fine point. If you do not want a false edge, use a belt grinder to sharpen and as the pull the blade across the grinder, pull the blade a slight bit back towards you as you get close to the tip and it will make sharp tip. If you pull the blade back towards too much, it burns off the tip....so practice with something useless.

Also, forgot to add...a reil burner is good for 250 cu inches, not 350.

First make sure you have no wool in the way of the flame as it can cause fluterring of the flame. Next thing to check is the depth of the nozzle into the wool as you might have to move it in or out to develope the best flame characteristics. Seal off the back of the forge totally. The opening in the front of the forge will handle all the exhaust. What I have always found is the forge design is what determines the heat of the forge. Once you have a good flame characteristics (neutral), that only leaves the forge. More than likely, the front of forge will need to be reduced as well, sealing the top down as heat rises. Fire bricks, wool, even metal will work.