Tubbe

Looking good! Hard to tell the size, I think I made my pair a bit too small. What diameter spring did you use?

Thanks for all the kind words. Really appreciate it!

Hi,

A couple of weeks ago I made a scroll jig, mainly for creating touching c-scrolls... apparently it can do other stuff as well :).

I made this trivet as a Christmas gift and I think it came out ok. I'm not 100% happy with the chunky collars though, but I used the stock I had around...

To help the assembly I tack welded the tree pieces together before adding the collars. To be totally true in regards to traditional joinery I should probably have added collars to the three touching parts in the center as well.

Forging and adding collars for the first time - check.

Stock used: 10mm square and 25x4mm for the collars.

Nice! Might be a project later on...

What's the definition of a "fire pit"? Anyway, for inspiration you could check out my old thread and little on how I made my "fire basket". :)

http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/23301-fire-basket/

Hi,

I made new doors for my smithy/forge this summer and decided to forge new hinges as well. This is the result.

Stock used: 30x5mm, 12mm round and 30x10mm

Tubbe that is gorgeous work!

Fun times, I can tell! Thanks for the videos.

Nice set of pictures as always!

Awesome job. Did you use a Flatter to smooth it out, or just hammer control? Definitely some fine work!

Hi,

Today I set up a small challenge for my self, as I (we) often do, to make a swan's neck hardie tool. Sooner or later I want to try out some more serious scroll work and thought a tool like this could be helpful.
Started off with about 7" of 1" square stock (mild steel), made a slight upset about 2" in from the end and forged a shoulder and the hardie post to fit. Then it was time for the swage block and some bashing with the sledge. I worked it all down to a block about 1,5"x1,5"x2,5" , then made the taper and finally bent it to shape. It's not perfect but I think it will do the work.

Here it is. I may have to grind the tip a bit sharper, what do you think? A sharper edge means a weaker tool, but I doubt one actually forge on the tool, rather bend and form, right?

Back to drawing some scrolls....

Cheers

Hello every one, just a quickie; when you write : 3/8 square, and 1 3/4" ect, what is that in cm/centimeters?
kindest regards.
Sweden. Karl

Stunning work! Your "round top" collar stock looks so smooth as if it was mill rolled. Is that the case or do you make it yourselves?

Sweet! How did you make the first original piece? Not the most trivial shape to forge, I assume. Was that also 4140?

Hi,

Sam Salvati's tongs really caught my eye the other day, especially the flat bar tongs. The design was totally new to me, but looked really handy. So... I decided to try and forge a pair. Started off with 1"x3/8" flat bar stock. The finished pair grabs 3/16" thick bar with a width from 1 3/16" to around 2". I added a slight offset to the reins to make them parallel. Lets hope this can encourage someone else to make a pair!

I found the best way to punch on your own is to get some chain (chainsaw chain is best, but normal chain works). Fix it to your anvil or anvil stand at one side, drape it over your anvil and attach a weight to the other end. Take your piece off the fire, put it under the chain and the weight will clamp it down like a vice, freeing your hands!

Hi,

This is my go on the scrolling wrench described by Mark Aspery in his first book. An interesting an rewarding exercise really. Only difference is that I used spring steel and made them slightly more light weight. Wrench size 1/2" and 3/4" (12mm and 20mm).

Good to see some pictures of the bottom fullers being made. Those half round set hammers used to form the radius on the fullers would be nice to have... a real challenge to make one, I assume.

Thanks Brian and you all for the feedback. Most welcome!

Made a flatter today. I adjusted the eye punch before starting today and I think it improved the result. I filed a smoother surface on the punch part and made the V grind a bit more acute.
Started off with yet another piece of axle, about 1 5/16" in diameter (33mm). Went ahead a bit too optimistic about the upsetting, forged down just a small shoulder to make it fit a 30mm square hole... it slipped quite a bit initially, making the actual square flatter part a bit smaller/thinner than I first calculated. Still learning....




Upsetting done!


Forging done!



Grinding/filing done!

The striking end may be a bit too long, but that's easy to fix.

Don't know if I dare mentioning heat treatment on this one :) This is not a tool that is supposed to get hot, so hardening it would just make a better tool, right?

I wonder... would a small drilled pilot hole help getting a perfectly straight hole when punching, or would that just mess things up/make no difference at all? Could be worth trying...

Brian, another thing, if you don't mind... For your top fullers, approx. what dimension stock do you use? Looking at some images it looks a bit bigger and you flatten it down to a more oval/capsule type section before punching, right?

Ok, no heat treatment then :) I'll try to use them HOT, and not hardened they are really easy to regrind/file if necessary. The only problem I can think of is when you cut through against a mild steel backing plate. Maybe I should get hold of a good piece of copper or even aluminum for backing.

Thanks guys! Really appreciate your nice words.

Made two handled hot cutters. Struggled a bit punching the hole straight i these. I had to start over and punch from the other side when it didn't go as planned from the beginning. It turned out ok, but not the cleanest hole I've seen...

Used slightly larger axle stock, 1 1/8" I think it was this time.







I'm going to harden these for sure. Wonder to what color to draw the temper, purple/blue?

Hi,

In this tread I want to show the tools I have made, hugely inspired by the tools Brian Brazeal makes. I've tried to suck up as much information as possible from all posts Brian has made and all the images that Lyle Wynn has posted. I'm really just a beginner, but with all that info, some thought and trial and error, it's actually possible to do some pretty ok stuff.

First thing I made was an eye drift with a punch grind on the end, then I made the hammer tongs to be able to hold hammers/top tools with an eye in a secure way.
Then today I made my first handled tool, the eye punch. Both drift and punch were made out of 1" car axle stock, and neither one has been heat treated.


Punching the hole. This is actually the hardest part when you work alone. I used a half round bottom swage to help me hold the piece. Then it's just a matter of getting the hole straight and in line.... :)



Hole drifted and cheeks forged out using the drift as an anvil, from both sides. Has to be worked quite fast as these thin parts cool real fast, even with a drift up in temp. Striking end fixed up.
I'm a little curious how thin you actually can make the cheeks, after all it's made to be hit by a sledge hammer....


Round taper


Finished. Flattened taper and V shaped punch end.


Simple handle



My plan is to add some other tools to this thread in the future.

Hope all this can be some sort of inspiration for you all....

Made myself a pair of these tongs yesterday. This is the result.



The reins came out a bit short perhaps. The total length is 16".
Lets see if they're any good... :) Planning to do some handled top tools to start with.

Hi,

I just had to try these as well. Good exercise for both brain and body