Mark Wargo New2bs

A few weeks ago I stopped by a railroad and talked to a workman about legally aquiring a piece of rail. He told me that a fellow took a piece last year and was prosecuted and warned me not to pick any up. He did give me a number I could call to inquire.

Mark

I came across this picture of a Champion Blower mostly disassembled. From reading I have noted several folks wondered what they looked like on the inside. I hope this helps those who are interested.

Mark

I believe that I have identified the anvil as a SISCO Superior Anvil from Sweden. The logo is badly pitted, but I think from doing a web search that the legible marks match. I've inlcuded a picture if anyone familiar with the anvil could verify it. Thank you much.

Update: After some elbow grease I can make out "Made in Sweden" stamped just above and to the right of the weight. There is some type logo above and to the left of the numbers, but I think it is going to be too badly damaged to make out completely. I will continue to sand on it until I get it relatively clean.

The anvil has been welded onto it's stand, so looking at the bottom is out I'm afraid.

Mark

I would appreciate any help in identifying my anvil please. The only markings that I can see so far are 156. I've attached several photos. The anvil in the back is a 155# Fisher Norris from 1899, sadly broken at the hardy hole.

Thank you for your help.

Hopefully I've figured out how to attach photos...Here is the forge setup, work table with vice, and my two anvils. I'm told the table is the piston from a steam locomotive. It weighs about 640 lbs. My forge and tools are modest, but I've cobbled them together since I started in October of this year.

Mark

Thanks Nakedanvil. I guess in my mind I thought it might try to squeeze down into the hardy rather than upset if that whole end remained hot.

This is a very informative thread. Nakedanvil, in order to upset the middle of the hardy hot cut after tapering the end, did you heat the center, cool the tapered end then use a sledge on it while in the hardy hole?

Mark

Definitely start with stock that is long enough to make both halves of the tongs and work one end at a time. I bought 4 feet of 1/4 inch by 1 inch stock and cut it in half, that way I could work both havles at the same time to keep them similar while having plenty of cool handle to hold on to. In my brake drum forge, I have no problem heating just the end that needs to be worked. I haven't cut out slots on the side of my forge, so to heat the center I have to pile the charcoal in there.

Check every flea market and antique shop you come across and ask people at work. (Carry pictures of what you are looking for, because we are two generations removed from people who actually did this stuff and most folks look at you funny when you say your are looking for blacksmith tongs). Also, everyone at work who "goes yard saling" has permission to purchase tongs sight unseen for around $10 and I will buy them no questions asked.

For me, a distant relative found one set in his barn and donated them. I bought 1 set of bolt head tongs that were hanging on a fence for $2. I bought one set of tongs for $12.50. I'm making my first set now. Trying to use channel locks and vice grips got frustrating really quickly for me. Good luck with your own tong search!

Mark

That is absolutely fantastic!

Neat! Nice use of the old hammer.

Very Nice!

I use charcoal (natural hardwood, not briquettes) in my brake drum forge. I get the air from a $5 oscilating fan from Wal-mart and that gets it plenty hot. You will go through quite a volume of charcoal relative to coal.

Thanks much. That was very educational!

Mark

Thank you guys for sharing your time and knowledge with me this weekend at the craft fair in Jackson. I really appreciate getting to pick your brains regarding hammers. Thanks also for talking with me about the forge welded cable knives and heat treating.

Mark

Thank you all for your insight. I went looking around this weekend for blacksmithing tools at flea markets and antique shops. By pure luck I happened upon a demonstration by the Mississippi Forge Council. Those folks were very informative and discussed hammers with me and allowed me to get a feel for each of the hammers they had available. A big thanks to those guys for their knowledge and hospitality!

Mark

congrats!

I too have started out in similar fashion a couple of months ago. I started with a dug hole and a 1" steel pipe blowing air with a fan. I moved up to a brake drum off of a 4x4 that is now mounted on a portable expanded metal serving cart with black pipe plumbing. I've started my search for blacksmithing classes and I thank you for your testimonial regarding the benefit of such. It's really helped push me in that direction. Good luck on the road of smithing!

Mark

Also, Arftist, my thinking was along your method. It feels more natural for me to hold the material and the hammer at 90 degree angles. That places me closer to the work, and helps me better see what I'm doing.

Thanks for the perspectives. As a novice, I just wanted to get some ideas about what might work best. I don't want to develop bad habits, or use shortcuts when I need to be learning something valuable. Up to this point I've been using re-handled pawn shop hammers. My wife is ordering me a 3# cast hofi hammer, so I can look forward to using that when it arrives next year. In the mean time, I'll develop the skill I can with the cross pein and improve my muscle development and hammer control.

P.S. I drive a Toyota Tacoma and shoot a Tikka T3 .270 Winchester Short Magnum. :D

Very nice!

I've been using RR Spikes to work on my blade forging. Plenty of internet research and youtube videos has helped. My interest is in forging historically acurate weapons (though not necessarily with historically accurate methods /hug grinder). I've mainly forged bodkin arrow points and RR spike knives to learn the feel of moving metal. So from a complete novice perspective, you can begin learning on blades. I think the major concern many would have would be the exacting standard most people expect from blade work and the frustration that might develop from not getting it right in the early stages. A less than perfect hook will still hold things, a less than perfect knife might not function correctly.

I learn best by absorbing a lot of information and forming a cognitive schema, then jumping in to gain practical experience, then returning to the information to adjust my construct based on what I learned hands on.

I have been very fortunate. My great uncle was a rancher and did his own smithing out of necessity. He has since passed and his property was recently sold off. The new owner graciously gave me the only remaining piece: A 600 pound work table made from a complete piston from an old steam locomotive. My uncle had hand drilled and tapped the side to accept a steel vise. Our county judge donated an 1899 Fisher anvil that used to weigh 155 #, but which had the end with the hardy hole knocked off. This week, I was the proud recipeint of what appears to be an all steel anvil of 156 #. I've yet to find any identifying marks. both anvils were used in farm shops, so have some damage from welders and one has some melting near the step (I suppose from a torch). Both are far superior to the 30 # railroad track I was using, as you can imagine.

Very nice. Realy like the way you drew it out.

Thank you folks for the information. It would seem I might best be served by the purchase of a Hofi hammer and learning to use his technique for drawing with the edge of the face and relying on the pein for fish tails, etc. Do most people find the 3 pound cast hammer fairly easy to use? I have read that Mr. Hofi recommends that particular hammer. I've been using 2lb shop hammers for lack of blacksmith tailored equipment. Would the transition to the Hofi be relatively easy?

As my screen name implies, I'm rather new to blacksmithing and I have a question regarding moving metal with the pein. I notice that the hofi hammers all have cross peins. I have a cross pein hammer, but I find it difficult to control the hammer with the metal held out straight in front of me with the tongs in front which places the hammer well out in front of me. Would a straight peen hammer be easier to use so that I could stand beside the anvil and hold the tongs perpindicular to the long axis of the face of the anvil? that seems like it would allow me to keep both my elbows close to the body and strike straight down more accurately. then, rather than pusing and pulling the hot metal with my arm, and trying to adjust my hammer arm, I could move the metal by rotating my hips and not have to adjust my hammer arm much at all.

Any experienced thoughts would be appreciated.

thanks,

Mark