Agita

Quite Nice, I would have never thought to use one outside of an anvil. Looks like it works well.

Hi all, Got some new goodies at a flea market.

Flatter,


Cutting Hammer of some sort,


And a Stake,


Any Idea what the Cutter is and What does the symbol stand for? Anyone know of J.Wilcox ? History?

-Thanks

I second the Mark Aspery Channel

http://www.youtube.com/user/MarkAspery


As well as the ed caffrey DVD collections

@Downsfish

That is a really cool vise. Congrats

I'll try it in the morning. Thanks

Sorry bout that, I meant a Hold Down. We called them a third Hand but what you say makes sense.

I have worked for almost a year now without one and Now I find myself in need. Made two. One springs back up and the other I needs to reform.

I know its probably simple yo most of y'all but How do you go about making a Third and for a pritchhel hole ?

I can form it perfectly but what about tempering to get it not too springy but not too Stiff?

I wish my original teacher was around to ask.

Thanks to anyone in advance.

Finds from this past few weeks.

BTW anyone know what the symbol on the 20# sledge is ?

Wen't down to a flea-market and found some shop that specialized in old tools.

$39 for a unused flatter. Don't know the name but had a symbol like a arrow. Green paint but not a marr on the surface very old looking.
(just wanted to get an idea if that is too much, was to my first impression)

Had a drill press there for what I took as an amazing price. Was freed up but had no chuck or the hand cranking bit. No markings painted green. apparantly a long time ago.
Found a picture online but don't know if it's ok to post a pick thats not my own. looks like on of the buffalo drill presses that are hand cranked, but the only thing that turns it is the 12" round thin wheel. (for a belt??)

Also I saw no adjustable bit on the top like I've seen on others.

$50$ for the drill itself. Will I be able to find a way to turn it by hand? Good buy ? What kind of chuck would I need.


If its ok to post a pick I'll edit it and circle the bits that are missing or diffrent.

Thanks in advance.

Now those Welding spats look ok. I might invest in a pair.

I wear a pair of yellow ballistics grade glasses form watching a piece of yellow slag hit a fellow in the eye. They are made for shooting but correct me if I am wrong, I think they will stop a piece of slag. ( theyr spose to take a 22 at point blank, but I wouldn't test it )
They fit like sports sunglasses. ALSO being yellow I can see colors run while the metals still in the fire. Take the glasses off and you can't see jack for the heat.

I also hate gloves, I don't have the dexterity when they are on. But... I do always wear a t-shirt, soooo.. I wear Long welding gloves
when I am forge welding. Not a month ago I hit a large billet and spattered my left arm with flux leaving around 30 or so small white blisters. The size of a grain of sand.

I'm thinking of wearing sandals from now on, 2 months ago I had a welding hot piece of metal the size of a dime melt thru my pants the top my boots, tongue ,strings, socks and 1/2" of my skin on the top of my boot. Took at least 5 seconds to get the boot off and dig that crap out of my skin. Still YELLOW hot. LOL. Still can't feel all of the top of my foot.

Cool. So how much were the big pliers?

Frosty the Lucky.

25 was steep for pliers to pick up hot junk so $5 had to do.

Call'em tongs and they ask 25. Call'em pliers and they're 5.
Hammer was free lol.

What do you think those "pliers" were originally made for ?
They are even a bit big to pick up a 15# rock hammer.

"How much for the big pliers"

and a large hammer.

I love the flea-market.

That vid is mark
http://www.iforgeiron.com/user/3586-mark-aspery/

All credit to him


I love seeing stuff like that. great for learning.

I'm doing it just like this b e a utfull video here.

http://www.youtube.com/user/MarkAspery#p/u/12/pxTdbC5MLRQ
http://www.youtube.com/user/MarkAspery#p/u/12/pxTdbC5MLRQ

only thing is I don't have a swage block.

I also thought of welding a collar to the stake.

Might take that Idea of a 3x8x8 piece of steel. Wonder If I could weld a square to hold it in the hardie.

Hope this should go here

So I have a 110# anvil I bought when I first started into blacksmithing. Happens to be a probably crappy to very crappy anvil from harbor freight.They apparantly stopped making it a few years ago.



I can't really afford what I want so of course I'll use this as long as I can.

My question is I'm upsetting some hardie tools and a stake now sooooo... how hard do you think I can hit the tail without breaking it.
Using a 6# hammer to pound on the end to upset just as if I had a nice swage block (something Else I would love to have)

Any other methods of forming hardie tools without using the one on the anvil?

THANKS

Speaking of that hammer is that 2 holes drilled and then forge welded on top?

@bigfoot
-Thanks for the advice I already started making a pair of giant hammer tongs,
might have just saved me a bunch of trouble. I was planning on cutting first


Anyone know if this would do for making a flatter? Or would it be a ton of work upsetting ?

I can't find the stupid packaging that it came with. still got the case tough it has no name. Its not Mitutoyo it was some English name. I have a pair of Mitutoyo calipers though. I bought this stuff a mouth or 2 ago, I just can't find the packaging or the pdf I DL'd. Might be at the house.

For anyone that might know though... it was in pink plastic bag that had a white lable with spectromity readings. Red oil on surface.

Wow thanks, guess I'll be making some after all. Need a hot cut pretty bad not to mention a few other things. I just got to figgure out how to cut the stuff I havn't bought a band-saw yet.

It is a '05 Peterbilt that it came out of, lucky he had a few spares lying around.


What kind of stuff like that would be Ideal for tools like hardie cutters and Dies ? I hit the scrapyard and junkyards all the time: as well as parts like this axle floating around. What should I look out for in the massive piles of xxxx. :D

So My stepfather decides to break an axle on his tractor tailor last night ..., as he is taking a load to Florida, thats bad.
I end up with a ~2"+ thick ~3' axle,.. thats good.

But just last night I was reading in a Blacksmith book that one should not make things that need to be tempered hard out of such an axle.
Says they have low carbon content and won't temper hard at all.

I was thinking of making a hammer and some hardie tools out of that thing. Should it be done? or will I be wasting my time and make a hammer that will mar, and a hot or cold cut that won't hold an edge.

Thanks in advance.

It wasn't actually a tool. It was a piece of metal for a tool. Apparently it was to be used in the making of an 18" caliper.

There are about 4 or 5 more pieces of varying lengths over at my supplier's place. He never charged me for that first piece, I think he wanted to trade some work for it every once in a while we work on their systems. Maybe I need to get the rest of that. I'm pretty sure there was a length of 2'.

Also there are other types of steel I can't remember that come in those cases and packaging. Anything I should look for W-something, O-something, S-something. All of them had papers with them form where they bought out a small metal working shop.


BTW I just bought a nice 13 amp angle grinder that works wonders. Just need to invest in a good belt grinder and band-saw now lol.

THANKS

Where are you I know of a couple of professional black powder makers a but north of me. I could get the contact info if you were interested. They make everything from the barrel to the lock.

The book FOXFIRE #5 has a large chapter on how to make gun barrels. If a person had enough Damascus made up I don't think that it would be a problem to weld up 2 pieces together. Kinda twist welded around a static pole.

about 10 bucks

http://www.amazon.com/Foxfire-5-Inc-Fund/dp/0385143087/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1277492420&sr=8-1

The packaging is at home I don't know who right now.

Agita, are you possibly making a knife out of a precision mesurement gauge?

Actually back when I got it I looked up the company that made the steel to see if I could order more (more that the place that sold it to me had no Idea what to charge me and I wanted to know),.. And..........

They didn't sell it but they did manufacture precision measurement stuff and the piece I have was for a 18" caliper.

Why ? You guys got some too? wanna get rid of it. I might be able to get a few more like it. ~ 12" - ~ 2' (1"x0.5")


EDIT: Forgot!!! is shale white looking coal in the forge? Not until its burning can I see small pieces that look stark white ,

It's bar stock with a guarenteed .001 tolerance on the thickness.

Wasn't good enough for my thickness lol.

My Goodness please forgive me for not seeing my own thread was getting more replies. Thought it got lost. Yes it is a blade. Got a piece of fancy O-1 that looked perfect size just not in thickness. Didn't want to destroy it by making it uneven. I knew if I hammered it it would be a tiny bit too thin and I would have ruined it. I do have plenty of steel butt,.. this piece came in a case with spectrometry measurements packed in cotton soaked in some weird red oil in a bag then in a plastic case. Darn piece of paper telling test results. Thought it would make a perfect piece to go all out on my favorite style of knife.

Edit: BTW it makes a long straight spark with a brilliant fizz at the end.

I ended up hammering it and using a flat fuller?? (I don't know what those are called, looks like a spring swage for the hardie) got it a little above where I want the thickness. basic shape cut out but still lots of work left.

I've never worked with a piece of metal that has this little scale fall off. I've had some weird yellow plasticish popcorn-looking stuff mixed with my coal (My forge has no clinker breaker) that has never been there before. Looks kinda like the "Great stuff" insulation in a can. Just 2 or three golf ball sized pieces.

Thanks for the suggestions keep'em commin.