Agita

Makes sense. I'm going to the supply house this Saturday to see what I need for insulation and the roof. I keep checking for input before I finalize my build.


Possibly there will be pictures. ;)

"If your beating cold metal, your not charging enough" -Richard (my first teacher) (*@dollywood)

I didn't know as an average person. Good thing you guys are around to keep me straight.

Didnt mean to stir the waters this much :D

Ah, didn't know. makes sense though.

I've seen smiths bid against each other many times at meetings and conferences without guile.......An auction is an auction, we're all big boys here..................mb

Considering I still want to use my current forge would ya'll see a way to take my hood off and make a side draft unit for it? Just googled it and found that they look nothing like my setup.

Would anyone be kind enough to sketch out a rough sketch or small design, or show a pic of a setup they think would apply to me. (ms paint maybe)


"Have ye pen and pad"

First off I don't know if this is the correct place to suggest something like this, but... (admonish me if it isn't)
I searched for something like this but I didn't find one.

Could we get an EBAY thread going long term? A sticky or something?

I bid on multiple blacksmith tools online, all the time! Would it not benefit us if we know we were fighting each other?

This for example
http://cgi.ebay.com/LOT-4-BLACKSMITH-HAMMER-FORGING-TOOLS-/370496847790?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5643553fae&autorefresh=true#ht_3955wt_1139
(It would be nice to know if I'm bidding againt a friend or a COLLECTER)

I'm bidding on it at this moment. If I knew that another member needed something, and I didn't. I wouldn't bid on it.
Say like an anvil , and a new member needed one but I already had a few and could have done without. I wouldn't bid.

-Respectfully
-Agita

Thanks for the replies ,.

I don't know much about my forge I would love to get some history on it but alas I have found none. The blower is marked Lancaster geared blower NO40. ALSO, Champion blower & forge CO Lancaster, PA, U.S.A.

Point being I think its decently old (poss before exectics, at least in a BS shop), do you think it was made for a powered exhaust. If so I would get one. I LOVE OVERKILL lol.

Would anyone think that I should take the cover off and get a hood and a 10" or 12" pipe. If I'm spending money I might as well go deep lol.

some pics.


Bad pic of building. Before I started cleaning it out.

I don't know about a code for a shed, lol. I'll ask at a stove store down the road. (I've checked about insulation there before , nice stuff but expensive)

My forges chimney in the top measures 6" X 4". thats why I have a 6" pipe. But I can buy larger.


Thanks

I am almost done fixing up a building I will be doing my work in. The only thing I have left is to make a place for my forges exhaust. I have my forge but Want to know where to put the chimney. Should it go through wood with insulation or the tin roof? What kind of insulation do I need between the wood and stovepipe or roof tin, and what kind of material do I need for the pip itself?

If you didn't know, I love stainless when I can get it, so I do have some stainless pipe. Would that be ok? 6' is all I have left but I can get more (It would get me to the wall or roof)

Opinions?

Its small I know. it does have a 35# rock hammer on it lol.

I completely love the Idea of putting a flawless model on display for learning purposes. But most of the time it seems a giant waste.
I shudder to think that a cone mandrel would sit unused. I say we get a mob together and liberate it from is artsy prison!

Possibly a stupid question here, but...

I do have a 2" thick 4' ,- an inch or two, piece of 3 series stainless.... would that work?


IT HURTS IT HURTS

http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=7401&step=4&showunits=inches&id=255&top_cat=0

Why bother with the Tee at all? why not forge or turn the taper in appropriate size stock and then bend in an Ell?
One other point, be careful about putting to much leverage on the hardy hole with a tool like that.

Turn? as in a lathe? I wish I had one.

I'm currently making a hydraulic press like a gas powered wood splitter just bigger. Thought when I finished it I would Make a die or something.

I'll talk around, maybe someone would let me borrow a lathe in their shop.

Thanks

I want to make a Stake tool for my anvil. Specifically a small diameter mandrel. Going mabey from 2" down to nil over 12" or 16" or so. The other side would be Square or something else.
I've attached a picture of something like I'm looking to achieve. Normally I'd just by the thing but they are hard to find and expensive. I've got time to waist coming in the next few weeks. so.... Some Ideas please.

-How to get it even, Any Ideas or would y'all just work it out by hand?
-What would you make it out of , I can find just about anything, Got a very large piece of stainless to fool with too.
-What would you put on the other side?


All help is always appreciated ,everyone has been awesome in the past.

-THANK YOU.

Anyone get it for 338?

Looking at it my grandfather has an anvil that looks just like that. He bought it from a little tool shop that looked like a harbor freight, just a smaller outfit.
Looked just like that... Cast-iron, Tool steel top, shape minus the wielded base, and no name on it. Almost identical.

Anyone recognize it as something else?

Well maybe I'll bid on it if you two don't..


Ken, I'm in Fairview also. Assuming you're in Asheville area Fairview, and not east of Charlotte.




Cheers!

I might bid on it if Dragons lair docent beat me to it.

Anyone know what that might be?

I think I'll do another take on that hammer. I had and old, very old hammer in my collection. It was from early on in factory made hammers and the face looked something like that one. While I did grind off all the old face with it's chips and pits the story was not happy. The main reason it was not happy is that the steel was very soft under that awful surface I ground off and got all nice and shiny again,and no I didn't grind it till it turned blue. Almost dead soft in fact, worthless, in no time it was smooshed out and I had to do all that work over. I took it to a friend that had a good heat treating oven and he fixed it up right proper like but it wasn't any good without this re-heat treatment. The face of your hammer almost looks like another old hammer I once had but traded for a planishing hammer. This old hammer had a "steeled" face. This is where a superior piece of steel is forge welded to an inferior piece of steel to make a better and longer lasting hammer face. Your hammer may be just fine for a cross peen hammer but I don't think it will last long as a straight forging face, it will be just too soft under that old hard face.

I am now making a shop out of an old tool shed, just have in fact had a yard of stone poured in to cover soft dirt. Anyone now advise against this? (Paving stones sound nice)

I think I would have died if I found those in Smiley's. One of the flea-markets That I don't know the name of in SC. Right south of spartanburg. Has something like 10 large rows that are all covered. about the size of smiley's outside area.

Picked up a Full pein Hammer this Sunday after church. Normally don't go to the flea market on Sunday but I'm glad I did.(Straight Pein, first teacher always called it a full pein)

Don't have one and have never seen one to buy so I picked it up, although it was in rough shape. The face isn't even and neither is the other end but still. Brushed off some dirt expecting to see made in china and to my supprise found a horseshoe with an "A" and ATHA below it.

Now, all that to ask this....., Grind or forge straight.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

@John McPherson

My apologies for my run-on sentence. I May Have caused some confusion. The J.Wilcox was on the small "Candle Stick" Stake.

The only thing on the Hot Cutter was the Symbol I don't Know yet. What I can make out as "VERONALLOY" and "OFGA"


& @ROBAR

!!!!!!!!!!!! Beautiful !!!!!!!