skunkriv

I agree with BT. There was almost definitely a big flywheel on there. There is also a cam follower that rides on an eccentric to advance the auto feed. Can't tell from your pic if it is there or not but these are one of the most easily broken pieces on there and often are. I don't know what part of the country you are from but here in the heartland or any rural area that drill wouldnt be worth much. They still turn up often enough at auctions around here and if you go to any sizable gathering of blacksmiths you should find a complete one at a reasonable price there.

It wasn't just blacksmiths that had post drills (or post vises or hand grinders and pedal grindstones). Many farmers and city folks had these also so there are still a lot of them around.

I'd pass. Anymore I'd probably pass on it even if it was free.

Jacob, that is one heck of an idea. And I just let a pallet go at work last week too....Will be grabbing the next one.

Welcome to the forum Paul. Sounds like you are on your way. See recent post on "So you want to be a blacksmith"

Well this topic came up in another thread today. I did a search and didn't find anything on it so here goes. My apologies to anybody who may have already offered this.

Clifton Ralph spent his working career as a smith in the forge shop of a steel mill. Now he spends his time teaching others from hobbyists to pros the ins and out of power hammer forging. A great guy and great friend. Here's how he told me.

"So you want to be a blacksmith. Buy a BIG bag of marbles. Every time you buy or make a new blacksmith tool you take a marble out of that bag. When all of your marbles are gone CONGRATULATIONS you are a blacksmith!"

Rocky Mountain Smiths, Colorado Blacksmiths

Roy is right. Show up at one of their meetings and you will be warmly welcomed. You will also soon find most of them are trying to sell you tools!
You will learn the use of "tailgate" as a verb. Thats where the tool deals are done. Good Luck.

Link removed at the request of anvilfire

This addy will take you to the original article and gives credit to the inventor Ed Halligan. They say the original drawing is lost but you'll get the idea. WARNING... a lot of smiths got started just "wanting to make a few tools" for woodworking or whatever. You may already have turned down the path to becoming a blacksmith. Welcome. Remove one marble after completion of your forge.

It was just a thought that came to me as I was answering that post so the blueprint is in my (sick) head. After writing that though I think I am gonna make one...probably non-functional, though I may hang a squirrel tail on it next chance I get. You shoulda seen the one that got away....:D

There was a guy a few yrs ago that came up with a "bean can forge". I saw this in a newsletter. He took large bean can (I guess about 4" in diam, not gettin up to look) and lined it with refractory blanket (kaowool, durablanket etc).
He then stuck the tip of a plain jane propane torch (not the smaller, self igniting kind) through a hole in the side of the can. You could have a 3/4" hole in the opposite end of the can to pass longer lengths through but that end should be covered with a layer of the isulation also. This would get your rod hot enough and heat up quite a bit quicker than brick. Brick would work just fine too.

All good ideas above. You can also make a stand, hanger, or something for one of those colored glass gazing balls or big rocks and if she REALLY wants her yard not to be boring ya just can't beat a guillotine for squirrels ;)

Something else I do sometimes, may or may not work in your situation. On stuff I make for buckskinners etc I just leave things unfinished. I give them one of my old waxy rags that has got so much on it its not good for wiping things off anymore and let em wax their own stuff. Really no better way to heat big stuff like tripods or grates than over a campfire. I even give them a 0% discount.

Dr Dean, I think it's looking great! Have a friend in MN who wanted a double horn anvil and built it from scratch with plates. Turned out real nice too. Great job on fitting those rounds to get what you want.

Welcom mrs irn

There is cheap spray canola and also olive oil in the "Pam" cooking spray section at wally world. Used this on a bunch of weenie roasters.

Evidently the folks that make these think there is a LOT to it, $400 to be exact!

All it is is an air jet hooked to that hose blowing downstream at high velocity to create the venturi effect that pulls more air in behind it. Same principle as used in an atmosheric forge burner. This unit requires 17CFM of air which around here would require a lot of waiting on the compressor.

A good source of tubing for this is a drive shaft from a pickup truck. They are heavy enough to weld on the tab that the pivot bolt goes through and a mounting flange on the blower end if needed. Some drive shafts have a layer of stuff sprayed inside of them to deaden any sound/harmonic vibration. Easy to burn out. If you don't have a welder the pivot point can be made with a piece of 1 1/4" or 1 1/2" angle iron about 3/4" long and clamped to the tube with a muffler clamp (best) or a hose clamp.

Well I am at work and my book is at home but near as I can remember the "Solid Wrought" in a circle dates it as being made after 1850 something. There are probably some numbers on the feet to date it closer.

It definitely needs some work but it is better to wait and do it/have it done right than do it poorly. There's lots of info on rebuilding edges and I am sure you can find some on a search here or on google. I use "build up" rod that I cadged from a rod salesman one time or 7018. Enough carbon will migrate into the weld zone from the steel face for the hardness. Don't use hard facing rod...too hard and the chromium in it tends to crack out in use. For now I would just use it.

FYI-something that stuck in my mind (hey it happens sometimes, really)

Was once told that 'merican pennies up through 1989 will work for forge brazing. So you don't have to search out your old wheat pennies (they work good too!) Always keep a few pennies and some borax in my travelling box.

I'm guessing so he could lever the back of the tool against the upright of the tool rest. Have seen softer metals spun but have been told spinning steel is hard work.

Welcome Daniel. In my experience there are several strange blacksmiths about anywhere you'd care to look. Am meeting up with 80 or so of them this weekend.

Every time The subject of safety glasses comes up I remember this story told by Clifton Ralph (which is why he uses this particular story...so people will remember)

Clifton worked in the forge shop at a steel mill, making and repairing large type things a steel mill needs. This was many years ago when pretty much nobody wore safety glasses (or hearing protection etc). Well there was one man who always wore his glasses. Always. One day this same man was sitting in a break area of the mill, having some coffee and reading the paper. Something happened nearby and BAM, he lost an eye. On break, no glasses.

Wear your glasses.

Heya Ten Hammers, thanks for the welcome.

"We met at Haverhill (I rode up with Larry Crow)"

I won't hold that against you ;-) Hoping to see Larry in IL this weekend. I saw a pic in the gallery here that included you and J. Teslow. Haven't seen him I bet in 15 yrs, last I knew he had moved to CA. I see there is a hammer-in down your way the same weekend as our spring conference in Haverhill. Sorry I'll miss it.

When I run my flat bottom rivet forge out doing shows I run the coal a good 6-7 inches deep. 4 inches would be about minimum. On this kind of forge it isn't long before a lot of what is right at the bottom is stuff that won't burn anymore. If your fire is deep enough my next guess would be your air gate is leaking by.

Next time you make a grate make one with slots as mentioned above. When things start getting cruddy in there you have to find all 9 holes with a poker or pick (without seeing them). With a slotted grate you just pull your pick the length of the three slots and you're good to go. Slots are a lot easier to find.

Been lurking and enjoying iforge for awhile. Figured it's about time I said hello.

I'm Steve White and I live an hour east of Des Moines, Iowa. Been 'smithin since '86 but playing with metal/junk/old tools for 35 yrs or so. I run Skunk River Forge as a verrrrrrrrrrrry small business making my special line of "trinkets and junk" and whatever else comes my way. Tractor parts, tools, sign brackets, whatever. I have been setting up at the IA State Fair for 16-17 yrs. Have made a few nice ($)pieces but mostly I just play and learn, oh, and bullxxxx alot with the 100's of friends I have made over the yrs.

I belong to the ABANA and the Upper Midwest, IL, And MO "affiliates". I am currently the editor of the newsletter for UMBA but am in the process of retiring from that after almost 7 yrs. 2yrs in one stint and 5yrs in the 2nd.
When people ask if I am a full time blacksmith I tell em if I was I would be a lot skinnier. To stay fed I work at a city water treatment plant (drinking water).

Just checked...it's 5 below out. Goin out to light the gas forge and then come back in for some more coffee while the shop warms up. Enjoy the iforge site and the format.

Take everything I say with a grain of salt and even if it ain't funny it probably seemed so on my end.