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I Forge Iron

willowbilly3

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Everything posted by willowbilly3

  1. Thank you bigfoot, that is very useful information. I think I will just throw that knife in the box and keep it as a reminder of my beginnings. I do have a couple other file knives in the works and will attempt to temper them as soon as I have a better control of the heat. Non-magnetic maybe but that seems rather subjective. Has anyone here ever heard of or used molten salt? That is how Stanley tempered their cutting tools. It is supposed to become molten around 1500f
  2. Forged from a file. The metal seemed very soft, easy to file by hand but won't hold an edge at all. I did attempt to reheat the blade to about a straw color and water quench. Uniform heat is a little hard to obtain and I got it blue in spots and redid the process 3-4 times. I have not done anything more to see if I realized any success at all. thanks.the handle didn't burn.
  3. I am a wood scrounger. I find good wood in old pallats, dumptsers and many other places. I recently found some old ironwood at the feedstore. It was for electric fences. I bought scrap purple heart several years ago and have used it to handle many things including my favorite draw knife. I have fround some very dense (unidentified) reddish wood in pallats at a saddle maker. These came from Mexico Most recently I picked up a couple large chunks of mesquite at a flea market. I find bleached cowbones on any local ranch but you can go to a butcher shop and they will give you some. Take them home and boil them good.
  4. Nice one, a little larger than most of the Peter Wrights I run into
  5. I didn't mean to hammer it anymore. Maybe I used the wrong term. What I was thinking, or hoping to hear was maybe something like a quick heat back a bit from the edge until I see straw color at the edge and then quickly quench. Or a case harden of sorts.The ironwood is pretty resilient and will give off odor quite a bit before it actually chars. After reading a bit on saw blades I realize the Ulus are probably just junk because the saw blades were the carbide tipped kind. My daughter loves them for cutting pizza anyway.
  6. I have been thinking of some Stellite treatment on my blades. $75 seems high, I get really good blades from John Deere for much less than that. BTW, my favorite mower is a 111 JD rider that I put an 18 horse twin into.
  7. Hi, new here and a rank ametuer. I have made scant few knives but do have a little backyard savvy on welding ect. Recently I have decided to make some knives in the spirit of the old trade knives and buffalo skinners. My first two were from files. One is finished but I didn't temper it before I handled it. I used ironwood for the handles and now I am wondering if I might be able to draw that edge out a little without ruining the handle. Any suggestions? I also have another file blade hammered out and have not put a handle on so it should be easier. Oh, and I also have a couple Ulus I made many years ago from skilsaw blades and they wont take an edge either, didn't treat them either. I do not have a forge, I use my oxy/acetelene with a small rosebud clamped in the vise for a forge and a 4x6x12 block of D2 steel for an anvil. thanks
  8. Hi, new here. I am a semi retired mechanic welder and I am dabbling in making some reproduction 1700-1800s era knives like trade knives, fur trapper or buffalo skinner knives. I am no blacksmith, I use my rosebud for a forge and a huge chunk of D2 for an anvil. You may have seen me on other forums or ebay, I always use the same username. I dabble in vintage car parts and have a roadster pickup under construction.
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