cavala

Just moved to west Virginia anyone know any scrapyards near the wheeling area Ohio valley.

By the way Mr. Sells there was never a question. I had written a post about something new I had learned and hadn't seen discussed here before.

since the question was about dry ice in tempering, . I use dry ice and acitone for cryo, to force the conversion of retained austinite, for some of my steels also. but thats not tempering. Hard to get correct answers if mis using tech terms. So I asked what he was talking about. He is honest tho, at least he knows he dont :D

Well I was hoping someone else had more iinfo. what I got from the article last night was tools steel will have have an increase of 50% wearabilty. You keep the steel at subfreezing temps for up to 24 hours which does something to the grain structure, and then slowly bring back up to 300 f to aneal.
I'll try and find the link today it's pretty interesting.
I by no means know what I'm talking about.

A man at work was talking about aguy he knows who uses dry ice in his tempering process. I have never heard of this or seen it discussed on here. I did some reading on it last night,it's apparently very effective.
I guess you could call it cold treating.

B and p lamp supply has everything.

Wow thanks that was very thorough. I think I may give it a try. I should just take one of your classes but I don't really know where you have them. If you're ever in the southeast (Louisiana) giving a class maybe I will.

How is the dishing tool made? I'm sure you use a rounding hammer, but let's say I don't have one. What would you recommend ? Perhaps a ball bearing but what radius? Or do you have different radiuses for different sized hammers.
Thanks, Marc

I was just at a pottery store over the weekend, got some koawool for 2$ a sq ft (score) and three in some used bricks for free. The guy was very knowledgeable about castable refractory he uses fire clay sand and Portland cement, he said bentonite is really just a binder and makes the mix more plastic, not necessary fir heat resistance. The perlite is actually a volcanic material and could be a good filler.

Drill holes and set poles, highlines and substations are our bread and butter. We've got some big stuff. Did a job down town New Orleans and a guy walks by and says "wow that's a huge auger!" I laughed it was only 24" we got a twenty footer
Anyways it is solid wire I think I may unwrap it a little and see if the rust is only on the outer portion. I'll prolly end up sitting on it for awhile then giving it away too. Who likes too barter?

It's crc2 wire and I didn't have any plans just saw an opportunity. Most hardfacing we do is with a stick welder on our augers and core barrels.
Btw old and rusty I just recently moved from Nashville to the baton rouge area.

I recently was given a 25lb spool of hardface wire. It has a little rust. Is it junk or can it be salvaged. I've only used the stick rods so I'm curious how well it works on a mig.

I was told if you have documentation of ownership you can scrap em.

So would a 50 lb anvil mounted securely to a 500 lb block of iron perform as good as an anvil of equal mass.

Wow that sounded very complicated. Have you thought of silk screen. It's fairly simple to burn an image on a screen. A dark room and a lightbulb (and by dark room I don't mean photography).

The tips are usually brazed in you can't use em. As for the rest of the tooth it forges well. I work for a drilling company and I have hundreds of em at home. We use them on our rock augers and core barrels. Like Mark said I haven't found a use for them yet but I salvage anything I can

Ph down and hydrogen peroxide. When done pickling alot of copper you can use the solution to plate steel, duel purpose

It looked to me like he had plenty of energy left as he walked away. A good radius on the anvils corner at the far edge in the anvils center of mass should be able to provide like the horn does. Not an argument nor any pursuit of one. I'm just honest enough to admit I'm so darn out of shape and my technique so unpracticed I couldn't come close to matching that right now. Makes me wonder how many people on this forum CAN actually do that. Not pointing or taking a shot at you Cavala, but sometimes there tends to be a lot of criticism come out of the woodwork on these forums. Maybe some of those "armchair" blacksmiths might stand up and show us all how it's really done. As for me I'm going home at least a couple of nights this week and practice hammering because it looks to me like the benchmark is quite a ways out. Thanks for the video Dave. Spears.

Use the horn you're wasting energy.

I bought a half barrel at jack Daniels after going on the tour. Forty bucks I felt was a good deal, it still smells of whiskey and the logo on the side makes it cool to me. Someday I'm gonna get me a Makers Mark barrel of course after going on the tour and dipping my own bottle. Also anything can hold water if you put some time and caulking into it.

Looks like a death metal album cover

The coupon is your weld test wether it's two pieces of plate or pipe beveled, and welded in the flat vertical or overhead position. It's then ground smooth put in a vise or press and try to break it, or non destructive test X-rays and such. If you pass your certified if you fail practice more

You don't need school for welding certs. Go to an accredited place pay the money weld the coupon and you're a certified welder. More than likely any company you hire on with will make you take their own tests, they don't want a piece of paper they want you to weld. That's just my experience. To make any money welding you would have to travel and work a ton but you could easily make up to 80 to a 100 grand a year. I know because I'm sitting in a travel trailer in Louisiana while my wife and kids are in Tennessee.
Ive had my own shop for five years and made a ton of money but when things are slow it's nice to fall back on other skills. I was telling my wife it's nice to settle on a job that pays well.
You're really young you should be bank rolling some cash right now if you're not going to school.

Like you said it's got to be electricly conductive.

I've got mechanic friends you have wrenches that cost more than my anvil, I know I use the anvil more than they use those hi dollar wrenches.
I asked a a friend who had a real nice snapon tool box how much he paid for it, he said considering there's about a hundred thousand in tools in there all garanteed for life not that much.
If you want nice things and want them to last then you got to pay for em. You're not worth anything without tools and the more and better your tools the easier the work becomes.