cavala

I don't agree with people dogging flux-core, skyscrapers and bridges are built using it. I can lay down just as good of beads with flux core as I can with mig (just more spatter).
That said I mostly run shielding gas but I keep a roll of flux core around when im in a bind. Also a stick welder is very versatile, I keep a wide variety of rods around pluses a lot of machines can be set up for tig.

I second the pancake, that's what they're made for.

If it were me I would cut the cylinder in half length wise then make a tapering pie and weld it together. Hope that made sense.

That unfortunately would make an elliptical shape.
Cutting the v wedges out does work. I use to make cones out of two inch pipe to slide over anchor bolts. Sort of acted like a spud bar when setting the power poles.
That said I worked with two inch pipe which was cake compared to what you want to do.
Use a rosebud to bend em in. Its a doable project. Hope you have a good grinder.

I really like that sphere, not to hijack but could you describe how you made it.

I looked into it, its very expensive (was told up to $1000) especially for one off light fixtures. If you're planning on mass producing it maybe worth while.

Bronwells, sur-fin and google are good starts for metal bluing/patinas.

When I sand blasted we used medium grade black beauty. Gets the work done fast. I also liked to stack all the railings, the overspray does a lot of the work for you. I couldn't stand wearing that space suit.

The pompous sanctimony and self adulation aside, there is so much good information available here. Sometimes I think I might drown in the condescension though

Amen brother.

Ph down pool cleaner will make it shiny as a new penny. Mix with very hot water.

Looks like an outrigger to me but a lot heavier.

That is really cool, I'm blown away, not ideal but good in a pinch. I may try to find one of those electrode holders.
I remember asking one of my welding instructors about carbon arc welding and he said it was sort of like tig welding and I'll probably never see it done anymore.I didn't know about the two rod method. Are the electrodes consumed at the same rate as the gouging operation or less.

My Dad lived in his warehouse in east Oakland right next to the Mothers Cookies factory. I hated that smell.
I hope your neighborhood is better than his was (one block off east 14th)

**** I'm far from an expert, but I'll further explain my reasoning...
 
Say you have a useable portion of the anvil that isn't damaged... In my specific case If you have a near mint useable portion of of the face, and one edge is heavily damaged running along the entirety of the face... I want to build up the edge without taking the temper out of the usable face... So the t-shirt in a way enables you to keep the usable face cool and under the critical region of the possibility of annealing the hardened steel.
 
By my understanding, preheating the anvil allows for a better weld deposite, eliminates moisture contamination, and is a preventative measure when it comes to HAZ cracking. I'd leave it up to the mass of the anvil to post heat, wrapping it in kaowool to further the post heat if need be... The balancing act of manipulating the form without manipulating its existing function..
 
Hopefully a more knowledgable source can shed a bit more light on my vague understanding on why it's necessary, but the above mentioned is my layman's understanding.

If you got near mint edges you should use them. The low-hy rods you mentioned are good I've used them a lot but i dont think you're gonna get what you want out of them. As for the T-shirts you're wasting your time, I actually chuckled when I read it.

I'd preheat enough to keep the moisture out of the weld joint... use temp sticks (300- degrees) for the area around the weld in check (face). Remember the HAZ will heat up the anvil as well. I'd keep the area you don't want to heat up as cool as possible within that 300-400 degrees, I used a wet t-shirt to keep it cooled...

Correct me if I'm wrong but preheating is to increase the HAZ and slow the cooling process, why would you want to speed up the cooling?

It sounds like you're trying to light it like a cutting torch. When lighting the rosebud crank the acetelyn on the torch first until it burns free of soot then start adding oxygen.

Waste of time and gas.  You will need to wait for the welder to cool between passes, and you'll blow a lot of gas.  It's not even fair to do with someone else's gas.  Although I know those who would do that.  This is an ideal job for a big stick or mig welder.  The amount of filler you can lay in with a 650 amp 3 ph stick welder running iron powder rods is just awesome in comparison to one of those little 120V MIG's.

Lol abit overkill don't ya think,"650 amps 3 phase 7024 rods" it's a fire pot not a bridge.

If I'm understanding what you're doing it sounds like a plug weld of sorts. You should chamfer the whole, use a countersink or a much larger drill bit and then fill it up.

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This product is the exact same thing I've been buying at my welding suppliers for 20 years.

I'm sure it probably is the same, and for what you're doing its fine. Heck I'm gonna look into it for my home shop (I like to save money too),

The use of an argon mixture helps stabilize the arc and reduce splatter. As you get into the spray transfers you have to use at least 80% argon (but you're probably not using spray).

As for using co2 from a gardening store I wouldn't personally. Thats why we have welding grade gases medical grade etc. The purity for growing plants is not nearly as important as for shielding the arc and the weld puddle. Just my professional opinion.

Of course the arc will emit a magnetic field, but it's minimal. Arc instability or arc wander is caused by a magnetic field often gets worse welding in corners or or the top portion of a butt weld in the vertical up position ( why we use run off tabs to reduce this). Moving the ground often helps reduce the magnetic field, keep it close to where you're welding.
So in my opinion there couldn't be much of a magnetic field or you wouldn't be able to control the arc, but of course ask your doctor. Safety first!!

Good trout fishing up there, welcome aboard.

I have a 7x12 Wilton, I've been happy with it. I bought the saw scratch and dent from a dealer in Nashville for a good price. They weld the saw blades for me when I need new ones but I've had great success silver soldering ones that have broken. I've considered buying a roll or spool(whatever they're called) and just doing it myself.

I was also thinking copper. I use ph down (pool cleaner) and water as a copper pickle. I used a piece of steel to pull out some parts and noticed it looked like copper fairly quickly. I did a little research and basically the pickling solution becomes copper sulfate which can plate steel.
Just a thought but copper has allot more color possibilities than steel. I discovered this by accident but have used it several times since.

I've used Mcnichols in the past. They sell screen perforated, expanded metal etc, but I think they may have a 100$ minimum. I remember having to by a lot more fire screen than I need at the time but paid off having it on hand in the long run, something to think about.

A modern machine shop would be able to cut a nearly perfect square hole to your specs using a electically charged thin brass wire machine that is used to cut intricate shapes ... Not sure the proper name and dont want to butcher the proper name. I plan on this winter to have several holes cut for a homemade stake anvil holder. rough stock is 1" X 12" x 24" mild steel plate.

EDM