dan

Okay Bill, You got me here. A large scale Garver and carve the relief into the stock??? What do you mean exactly? Is this operation done cold or hot.? What is a large sclae Graver? Dan

Not a bad idea. Where can I buy some lazer cut letters? I am not sure how you then fit them( incorporate) them on the stock. That might actually have a very clean look. I like it Dan

I agree in order to get the proper definition I will have to work both side but I was not sure if free hand I could actually succeed by punching the back when the stock was so thick. I guess I will get a 1/2" scrap stock and practice to do at least one letter an see how I feel about it first Time is not an issue I will work it out one letter at the time Thanks Dan

Yup, I already though of either using copper or Steel for that matter and rivet the whole thing together but If I actually can do a repousser directly on the steel stock that i am using, I feel that it is more of a challenge and the pice will have a greater life and value

I am making a ski as a monument for a friend of mine that passed away. I am using a 4" stock 70" long and 1/2 " thick. I will thin out the stock at the tip and the back to have the sideway shape than an actual ski. I will then use rollers to give the ski it's camber and then make the curl tip. I want to do some repousser on the back side to write down RIP with the dates as well as write his name on the actual ski. Can I do some repousse with the stock that thick? The tip where the RIP and date will be is 1/4 thick and the name will have to be on 1/4 to 1/2 thick A36 steel. I figure that if I go hot enough my metal should allow me to have this done but I have never done it. Maybe I should think about using acid to chew up the steel around the letter to allow the letter to be in relief. Not sure if thier is any acid strong enough to do this. If so what kind of resist should I use in order to protect the rest of the metal from the acid Any suggestions would be gretaly appreciated Thanks Dan

Thank you all for your input. I guess the full size Jig is a good idea as well as the fork. Back to basic... Practice makes you perfect. Thank again Dan

I am working on a desing to build a chair that requires to bend some of the rod in a specific pattern. I see that i could build a fork to for my hardie hole but How precise can i get with this tool? if I need to make a few of the exact same shape i am affraid that it will be hard to duplicate. Any suggestion on how to systematically re create the same bend or shape? Dan

Awsome Idea to try from old files. Cheap way to practice I will also get some proper steel to make the chisel when I get better at it Thanks again Dan

Any book or DVD on the subject of where to start. Do I use A36 steel, how to I shape them etc... Thanks in advance for your input Dan

awsome responses and suggestions. I did carve yesterday a hardwood block with a diameter of 8" with a 7/8 of an " deep as a cavity for my concave shape. I will try to use a shere shape that I will weld to the end of an old hammer to get my desired shape I will then make a male mold of the exact same shape out of soft wood that will be 8" in diameter and 7/8 " high .The idea here is to have my new shape facing down on the soft wood to the form my sunflower texture. So I guess I will use both idea of a shere for the curve and the Ball pen hammer for the texture on the other side. I will keep you posted on the results. I cannot thank you enough for your brain storming. Dan

I want to make some sunflower. My center can be 4" 6" or 8" made our of 14 gage Mild steel circle. How do I go flat to my slight concve shape? Any ideas? Thanks in advance