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I Forge Iron

mike-hr

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Posts posted by mike-hr

  1. Thanks Glenn for helping me with the pictures!
    Thanks for the replies, I'm starting to come down with that old iron endorphin buzz, you guys know what i mean, it feels good rescuing equipment from a slow death as a yard planter.
    I got lucky and scored a tech manual this morning, buy it now on ebay. Has this hammer right on the cover!

  2. Drove by the local auto salvage place and saw what looked like a little helve hammer in the parking lot. Price was right, now it's in my parking lot. Using Grant Sarvers logic, 'buy the darned thing, then figure out what it's good for'. The casting says, 'High Speed Hammer #3A-HD'. We fiddled with it a bit, got the clutch working, and got it de-goo-ed and re-lubed so it cycles easy by hand now.
    -It has a wood beam helve design, with rubber cushions that are in good shape.
    -It has about 5/8 inch throw, from bottom to top of cycle.
    - There is a secondary pulley from the main driven crankshaft, that runs a small belt to the hammer guide, the belt turns a gear gizmo that slowly rotates the top die as the hammer runs. (Why?)
    -The bottom die table sort of rachets down,with some bolts in tee-slots, to accomodate different stock sizes, with such a short throw.
    -It appears I could use it like a pullmax demo I saw at a conference, maybe make a mushroom top die and generate bowl-shaped widgets with it.
    -Anybody know anything about this little thing? It needs a driving motor and pulley, I did some math, and with a 1750 rpm motor and 2.5 inch driving pulley, the beats/minute would be around 800. I guess the High Speed moniker was aptly named.
    I'll try and post some pictures, might take a few trys to get it.
    Thanks, mike

    post-1-12717458597006_thumb.jpg

    post-1-12717458651261_thumb.jpg

  3. Dragon's lair got the handle to this shovel. Depends on what we're doing. I've heard said, and said myself, the human brain is the best tool in the shop. Keep it out of the lacquer fumes.
    I've been promoting my shop as a waystation for regional smiths, stop by on your way thru, stay for a week if you want. One of our club elders, Dick Fedder, stayed with us last week, we were busy 14hrs/day plus re-hydration once the forge cooled off. Okay, re-hydration started before the forge cooled off, but Uncle Dick's 71 now, he re-hydrates with o'douls NA brew, keeps us on track. It's interesting visiting other's shops, and more interesting having career smiths come to my place, and see what they take a shine to in my digs. Some of the stuff Uncle Dick liked was: my 54x72 inch platten table, it's machined flat within a couple thou's, so everything that's clamped to it stays flat. The 12 inch verticle pedastel gringer with 40g PSA disc, and adjustable angle table, and 1 hp farm duty motor.I'm envious of the belt grinder crowd, and I will make one soon, but the pedastle grinder has a firm foot in the door in my shop. I have a lathe and vertical mill. I'm good on a lathe, but i'll toot my horn and say I'm darned friendly with the milling machine. I machined all the parts for an H-Frame guillotine tool one afternoon, 1 inch thick base plate, and 1 inch sq slide rails with 1/2 inch slot for the dies to ride in. Makes a darned near indestructable guillotine, but hard to nest all the chunks together without a mill. Dick liked using mine, and he gave my wife one of his copper roses on a steel stem, in my opinion,the flowers he makes are among the best on the planet,( Dick's flora is given mention in Aspery's book) so an afternoon of slot milling is worth it for a buddy. My old mechanical power hammer makes me available to work bigger stock than hand hammers do. We made some beautiful splitting wedges from a chunk of 3/4 x 3 inch agricultural leaf spring I found in my kinfolks scrap pile for a client of Dick's that makes split rail fence products. It was hard seeing those wedges leaving my shop. I didn't think to get a picture, but they had an old world feel to them that you can't get at the local farm and feed store.
    To summarize, after all the jibberish above, my favorite shop tools are:
    Coffee maker
    Beer cooler
    Satellite radio, and 4 big speakers, focusing on the forge.

  4. Be careful hammering on the thin end of the wedge. A little too much hammering, what do you know.. it's now the thick end, and won't drive thru, no matter who's your uncle. I've done Grant's slide hammer bit, works good. I got tired of slide hammering, ( had a fairly stuck wedge), so I drilled a 3/8 hole in a bit of scrap, welded it to the wedge, tightened a nut&bolt thru the hole, and used an air chisel against the bolt head. bu-bu-bu-bu-bu-shoooo! Out she popped. I immediately made a new wedge, but this one is a good 4 inches longer than it needs to be, with a bygod 3/8" hole drilled by the fat end, ready for the air chisel next time.
    Whoops! This was on my bottom die, the thread's about the top die. Don't know of a proud wedge will crash into the top guide workin's or not, feel free to ignore!

  5. One of my buddies built a portable rig like that for a big ranch in the area. He used a chain going to a cable overhead and back down, and a small boat winch to control the tilt, working on the theory that each wood fire is unique, and more heat control is better.

  6. Thank you all for the information! It's hard for me to imagine 1952, it seems like most of the name brand anvils i've seen are 1890-1920. Can I assume the base was still wrought iron this far along in the century? The base is arc welded together at the waist, it looks to be a 2-pc construction from the factory.

  7. I really like the piece. I'm aspiring to push my imagination that far. I've been stuck for decades on the addage,' It's real pretty if it holds cattle in' ag mentality. I just gotta ask, did you sketch this piece before making it? 3 views doesn't seem like enough. I would have trouble drawing it from your pictures, which are pretty good. Way to stretch the envelope, thumbs up!

  8. A new student scored 2 anvils last weekend, one of them is a little Fisher, with a few features that's got me puzzled. It weighs 20 or so pounds, by my right arm reckoning.
    - It has a legible '2' cast into the base lip under the heel
    - It has a big '4' cast under the bick, in the curve of the waist
    - It has an eagle cast into the near side, bick to the left
    - Underneath it has two round casting divots, approx the size of beer can bottoms (riser, sprue?)
    - Here's the strange part, under the bick, on the base lip, 'FISHER' is cast in, but in mirror image..REHSIF, but with backwards letters.
    - The edges are beat up bad, but I can almost make out a 1/4" to 5/16" thick plate on the top. It has approx 60% rebound with a 1 inch ball bearing at 15 inches drop. At first I suspected someone recast this thing, using a real fisher as a pattern, but the rebound suggests it does have a tool steel top.

    any hints?
    Thanks, Mike

  9. A new student scored two anvils last weekend... The bigger one is a 100 lb 'Trexton', stamped inside a diamond, farrier pattern. Had a brain numbing ring till we bolted it down to a stump with some belting in between, it's workable now. The serial # is 224976. Good rebound, really crisp edges. She's pumped up about starting forging, I told her I would ask you folks about the date of manufacture. I think I heard somewhere that Trexton was made by Trenton, is that true? Also, when did Trenton stop making anvils?
    Thanks, Mike

  10. I guess I could add one semi-entertaining tidbit... we would let our chickens out into the yard every morning to range around. Our son was 5 at the time, and had a hen he decided would be a good pet. Well, he was chasing it across the driveway so he could give it a ride in his Tonka truck. I was watching, the hen had a heart attack in the middle of the driveway, died right there.

  11. I took a power hammer workshop a couple years back with Frank Trousil, Czech smith working in CA. What he did,is weld a piece of H-13, (1/8" x 7/8") to the bottom of a removable plate, Clifton Ralph style, that sat on the bottom flat die of the hammer. He also welded some bump stops to this plate that he could push the blank in( North-South), and locate center with another bump stop(East-West). Bang, bang, turn over, bang, bang, and out popped the slug.

  12. I'll step out on a brittle limb here, and say that Steve (IronWolf) is THE GUY
    on the west coast that I trust implicitly for Gunter process anvil repair.
    I did an old trenton anvil with the stoody rod 10 yrs ago, I got so tired of
    working on that thing, I could have made out mowing lawns until i had money
    to buy a new Nimba. It seems every year Steve brings a Peter Wright to a hammer-in
    that's honestly good-as-new. Then he shows the pictures of the before, boy howdy!
    I don't know where he gets the patience to do that kind of work, but I'm glad he
    enjoys it..

  13. Howdy Poleframer, I spent an enjoyable summer in CJ in the mid 1980's as a cave guide in the big hole up the road..seemed appropriate, I was a geology major for a while. I like your set-up, I'm also on the verge of exploring what hydraulics can do. A couple years ago, I helped a contractor buddy develop a system that lifted a complete house 3 feet in the air, so he could pour a footing underneath. Six big rams that all ran off of his bobcat skidsteer hydraulics. I hadn't thought much about hydraulics till I bought my 1964 hyster 4000# lift truck. I'm just amazed how my back doesn't hurt anymore now that I can just pull a lever and pick stuff up.. Anyway, I'm over the Cascades in Klamath Falls, feel free to look me up if you get in the area. Looking forward to seeing more of your ingenuity on the forum.
    Mike Hricziscse

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