I weld a vertical weight made of scrap to the opposite end of the clinker breaker handle. It's usually a 1/2" round M.S. protruding in back of the firepot. In that way, the handle returns to vertical when released, and the tuyere valve centers itself. Most tuyere valves are triangular in cross section and allow most air to the fire from two sides. This makes for a more uniform fire than if the handle was left cattywampus.

I have started turning the clinker triangle V up. It seems to push the air to the center and make for a smaller fire! About 50% of the time I dont need the large fire the big pot produces. But you are right, I keep it all the way up or down not the the one side or the other.

I think it depends on the pot...Centaur's round pot breaker is tightly fitted when new and if you turn the small edge up (upside down "V") then there is a good chance the edge will melt away. That pot seems to work best with the flat side facing the fire. OTOH, my old Buffalo pot has the breaker set low enough and on a large enough eccentric that it will lift the clinker but not burn if left in the wrong position.

I do agree with Frank's advice on adding a weight so the ball has a tendency to settle in the same position.

The old Buffalo rectangular firepot had a slightly elliptical valve with a rectangular hole through its center. This was a good design, but again, the valve must be centered.

The old Buffalo rectangular firepot had a slightly elliptical valve with a rectangular hole through its center. This was a good design, but again, the valve must be centered.

Mine might have been replaced at one time but the entire forge was unused Army surplus when I bought it - so I think it the entire structure was original. The breaker ball is egg shaped with a hole thru the middle and the small end of the egg flattened so it's flush with the bottom of the pot. The ball can be rotated upwards to restrict and widen the blast or left in the lower position to increase the opening and center the air flow.