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Welding problem

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I've did a good bit of faggot welding today. I am trying to really hone in on the best way to do it. However, I have a problem, I cannot for the life of me get the tiny seams to disappear completely. The welds are very strong. I just sheared two welds I made, and actually broke the stock before I broke the weld.(in a vice, beating on one end with a hammer.)

I know the problem has to be in my technique somewhere. Any solutions would be greatly appreciated. I guess the very small seams don't matter in the long run very much, but they are really a pain in my backside.

When you prep the weld are the edges pretty thin? If not, then the mass of the edge will crease the main beam and this is what you may be seeing. All outer edges on faggot welds need to be pretty thin.

The seams on the sides perpendicular to the weld surfaces can be helped by using EZ Weld because it contains iron filings. It also helps to upset the material a bit so you can reduce the stock without going undersize.

I use a fagot weld to double the mass on the end of 5/16" square stock when making eating spoons. I was having the same problem until I started bringing it back to weld temp and laying it on its side and hammering there. Now, I can do it all in one heat. No seams left on them, now. I guess it just took a lot of practice, for me. Hope that helps. :)

  • Author

I use a fagot weld to double the mass on the end of 5/16" square stock when making eating spoons. I was having the same problem until I started bringing it back to weld temp and laying it on its side and hammering there. Now, I can do it all in one heat. No seams left on them, now. I guess it just took a lot of practice, for me. Hope that helps. :)


Thank you, I'll try that. Just an annoying type deal. Like I said, I know I could get by, but the perfectionist in me wants to do it correctly. BTW, I'm welding 1/4 inch square stock.

You can hit the hot shuts, and they sometimes go away. Quarter turns while fagot welding are desirable. You can take more than one welding heat over the same area provided that the heats are non-sparking (sweating) heats.

  • 4 weeks later...
  • Author

Just wanted to say thanks for all the advice. I'm getting the hang of it and it's working well!

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