Hi all, I'm working currently on a Tanto with a foot long blade. So far, I've forge and ground the blade down to the point where It's ready to be hardened. I want to clay harden it, or whatever the real process of called. The blade is 5160, and I really don't know what to use as a quenchant, or how to temper it after Its been hardened. I figured I would temper in the oven for an hour or so, but i'm saddly unfamilure with claying.
I've also started working on the habaki. Its made of copper, I need to close off the joint at the top if it, I bevled the edges of the joint. Should I sodder, braze, and how?

-I'll try to post pictures soon so you can see what I mean exactly. Thanks

-Bjorn

im sorry to tell you Bjorn, but a Hamon line will not show up in 5160 steel.

-andrei

I've been unable to get hamon on 5160 myself. Have seen pic of a hamon of sorts on 5160 - mostly just a straight line. I'd forget the clay - 5160 seems to through harden in spite of it. Austenize at 1550f. Quench in oil. 3 1 hr temper cycles at 400f - 425f (guess you could go as low as 350f, depending on what you want). I use silver solder on the habaki.
KSB

You can get a hamon to show up on 5160, but it's not easy. I finally got one to show from a clay quenched blade and it wasn't striking at all. I'd say try it if you already have the blade forged and ready, but be prepared for disappointment. On the habaki, Jesus Hernandez has a great tutorial on his website. Do a google search on his name and you'll find it.