Drq Posted February 23, 2011 Share Posted February 23, 2011 What temperature would you want the bronze blank to be ? I really don't have much tool and die experience which is kinda the territory we're getting into here. Casting is always another option. I've poured 70#s of bronze before at my shop, if you where to do the same, make a male up with the 0.010 clearance and then cast around that. I wonder if you would be able to get it out afterwards ? I'm wondering if some sort of release would work ? Maybe smoking the shaft like babbit ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fciron Posted February 23, 2011 Share Posted February 23, 2011 casting would be iffy, the nut will contract onto the shaft as it cools. Very hard to get out. Maybe if you made a dry-sand core... but you'd still have to make an internal spiral in your core box and sand-casting is less precise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver Posted February 24, 2011 Share Posted February 24, 2011 Cast it in two halves, just like I outlined for forging. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drq Posted March 14, 2011 Share Posted March 14, 2011 So I'm seriously considering trying this. I've dug out the change gears for the old mill at work and I think I can come up with something for a thread. Might not be too standard with the gears I found, but I'm not exactly worried about interchangeability. I've got a fair bit of Aluminium bronze kicking around, what do you think of using it as the nut material ? Also any ideas on making sure the bronze doesn't stick to the steel mold ? I was thinking smoke it like babitting but not sure this would work for such high heat. And now the real question. What the heck am I going to to with the thing when its built. I already have a fly press..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver Posted March 15, 2011 Share Posted March 15, 2011 Change gears? Mill? What exactly are you going to mill? And how? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drq Posted March 17, 2011 Share Posted March 17, 2011 I'm planning on cutting the threads using a helical milling set up on a mill. The change gears go from a dividing head to lead screw on the machine. Rough em out square with an end mill and then just go back and throw the thread angle on after. Way easier than trying to cut a four start 2" lead thread on a lathe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpotter Posted June 12, 2011 Share Posted June 12, 2011 I have a K&T universal mill with the thread milling attachment and the dividing head with the outboard power takeoff to sycronize the feed and the cutter so that you can mill threads like this I have made one and it was a big pain. I think you should forget this and move on with your life. This is a tough job for even a very skilled machinest let alone a hobbiest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver Posted June 13, 2011 Share Posted June 13, 2011 Sounds more like you're talking about milling the screw, I thought we were talking about the nut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fciron Posted June 13, 2011 Share Posted June 13, 2011 Grant, you're the one who suggested forging the two-piece nut onto the screw. You even told him to make a second, oversized male part ( ) as a mandrel. You're losing it, man. That was only four months ago. :P Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver Posted June 14, 2011 Share Posted June 14, 2011 What was?:blink: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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