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I Forge Iron

Tate Roth

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Posts posted by Tate Roth

  1. Does anyone know of a good place near the twin cities in mn to get a good deal on an anvil sized chunk of steel? Any good scrap yards you'd recommend or a good place to get plate I could build up on end like the iron kiss hammers? I really don't want to drop a huge amount of coin on new steel since the place that originally quoted me $300 now upped it $650. Thanks in advance.


  2. Should be a number of people locally, that own a tire hammer. I am not one of them, but, the Guild of Metalsmiths had a tire hammer build last year (if my memory serves me right) and they built at least 10 hammers. Most, if not all, were taken home by local smiths. I live in Eagan and own an Anyang 33 lb. hammer that I am currently in the process of build a stand for and putting it in service (after sitting for 4 or 5 years :-( )... or I would invite you over to try it out.

    Anyway, good luck. Contact the Guild and you should have no problem finding someone with a tire hammer.


    Thank you all so much for the responses. I might take you up on that offer, depending on funds I was considering an anyang 33lber. The new ones come with the base right from the factory. I'll try to contact the guild of metalsmiths to see if they can put me in contact with an owner of the tire hammer.
  3. I'll try get back out to measure it soon, getting back in shape after a cold. Overall, love the titan. The face isn't as hard as some of the old school anvils, but she won't chip either. I also have sea robin single billet anvil, the face is harder, but I use my titan a lot more. I may actually sell my sea robin this spring, I hate having it sit in the corner while someone else could be putting it to good use. I'm not a collector, I'd rather see something used rather than say its mine.

  4. This one is a little more rare, haven't seen too many around. The guy's asking too much of course since it's on ebay, but it is interesting.

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270587297924&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

    There's also a 50lb Moloch on ebay right now too.

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=150450208742&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

  5. I have a Carlisle Imagination Xpress, and the cylinder seems to have developed a leak. I got it used, and have emailed the maker, but haven't gotten a reply. I live near a hydraulic repair place, but am unsure about getting it fixed if the cylinder itself is leaking. May be easier to replace the cylinder. If I remember right, it's a 5" diameter with ~8" of stroke, the rod looks like 1.5". Any recommendations?

  6. I have one of these anvils acting as a lawn gnome helper. When I told my parents I was starting to blacksmith a few years ago, they ordered one for me and had it delivered to my house. It's funny since they are in ND and they had northern tool deliver it to my house, which is two blocks away from one of their shipping centers. Luckily, I already had picked up my Nimba. The northern tool anvil is cast iron, had a huge casting seam down the face, and little or no rebound. I ground the face flat and set it outside, and sometimes I let my boys bang around on it with copper to be like daddy.

  7. Congrats on the purchase of the new hammer. I for one would love one of the 75's from John. Never got a chance to meet him, or any of you in person, but am struck by the respect he commands. To me, it indicates he's the one to do business with. I'm just a hobby bladesmith, but as long as fortune continues to smile down upon me, I plan on ordering one later this year, or early next year, sight unseen. Respect mean's more than flashy marketing and hype. :)

  8. I was just wondering if anyone knew what kind of rubber the Bradley hammers used. I've found an old scan on line that lists dimensions for the different hammer sizes, but haven't seen any info on the material itself other than someone mentioning it was some kind of vulcanized rubber. I don't have a bradley (maybe some day), but have been wondering about it, or a suitable modern day analog.

  9. From the specs the Rhino should be in the low to mid 50's hardness, while the euro anvil is in the mid 40's. Filing the euro is definately an option, but the Rhino would be a PITA. I have a Nimba and so far have left the edges alone, waiting to modify it until I know how I want it. I usually use the middle of the face anyway since I'm a bladesmith, and use a Sea Robin single billet anvil too. That's a nice anvil, with 5 1/4" square and 8 edges to play with since I got both sides hardened. I'd say play around on a hunk of steel with various radii, to see what you like before you commit to something on your Rhino.

    Eventually I'd like to get a bigger Refflinghaus, with 59 hardness to 1", they sound real nice.

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