BlackSmithBear

I have a guy who wants my 186 lbs Peter Wright (pic below) for a 100lbs anvil (dont know the brand yet) a 80lbs bag of coke and $400, i payed $300 for my anvil and love it dose it sound like a good deal to u guys have only been forging for 4 months and have a small coal forge
thanks
Josh

That 2L might just be "21" with a "scar" making it look like an L...in which case it would be 245 Lbs.
Bear

Is there a slight "step"or "ledge" across the feet? If so it may be a Peter Wright as suggested above.

Ramsberg's idea may not be too far off. A pommel nut on a sword is only a few ounces, but changes the point of balance significantly.

I have tried using a ball peen hammer that came with a severely shortened handle, and just found it clunky.

Blacksmiths swing their hammers a LOT more than a warrior swings a sword, I wonder if anyone ever tried pommel nuts on hammers in antiquity, and was just told "We don't do that here."

Peer pressure is a real force. An Americanized carpenter went back to his old home town in Europe, and his cousins laughed and threw nails at him until he put away his black Titanium hammer and nylon toolbelt, and used the old style.

$400.00 for a 149 lb anvil is $2.68 /Lb. A bit steep in my mind. Try making an offer, and/or arranging a payment plan. Taking pics and posting them will give us a better idea of it's condition and help us to advise you.Be sure to get a good pic of the "Label" side, as the markings tell a lot about when it was made.

It's a HENRY Wright, Peter's brother. The fact it's stamped "ENGLAND" shows it was made on or after 1910. The "141" is in Lbs, as the highest the middle number in Cwt can go is 3. Not a bad anvil at that price. It's possible that it was intended for the American market and was marked in pounds for that reason.
Anyone out there with AinA that could check this one out?

I agree with Phil and ken. It sure has a "colonial" shape and the pritchel hole was probably added later(possibly placed where it is because they couldn't/wouldn't drill thru the face).

"ENGLAND" was added in 1910 at the behest of the UK Govt.

I used a wire brush in a drill to remove rust and then rubbed my 278 lb PW with an oily rag. It gave a nice black finish that almost looks like it was painted black. After use, I rub down the surfaces I used with the same oily rag to prevent further rust. It has worked very well!

Look at Sask Mark's photo again. In addition to the anvils the kids are posing with, lurking behind the pile, just waiting to STRIKE it's own anvil, I see a "Western Giant" power hammer....See how far his malaise has progressed...he resorts to hiding the really good stuff from the rest of us....typical with advanced cases!

Your Peter Wright anvil is PRE-1910. In 1910 the British Govt. required exports to be marked with "ENGLAND" stamped into the anvil on the same side as the name.

That is what I would like to do. Although I have been unable to find a pattern for tongs or some basic instructions on how to make them, and I do not know whether or not the blacksmith that may be visiting my school will teach me how, so just in case he does not do you know where I can find a scetch of a pair of tongs or instructions on how to make them? If you could that would be amazing.

A wooden box type forge would probably be just right for the time/situation you are looking for. The box is built, filled with rocks and sand around the fire pit with a piece of pipe coming in from the side, fed by a bellows on the outside. I could get dimensions and draw up a sketch if you like.

In the third pic, the rear foot seems to have a slight PW style "step", but the front foot does not show a step. There does appear to be a "parting" line on the front of the anvil(Horn end). Perhaps a casting made using a PW for the pattern, with poor quality pattern sand that causer a larger horn and no front step to the foot? Does the face seem harder than the body? That defect on the side could possibly also be from casting sand slumping.

2 2 4 would be 284 lbs (112x2)+(28x2)+4 Nice size anvil.

I was going to comment on your not leaving tabs to bole thru the anvils built in lugs on the base plate, then noticed you ran a strap underneath it to do so. Wouldn't it have been a stronger build to have bolted anvil direct to the bottom plate? Did you have a reason for not doing that?
Bear

I'm using a stump with my 120# Trenton,fastened down with a forged clamp on two ends of the anvil Lag bolted into the stump.

I copied this hold down from the one in the historic shop I work in.

I work in a "Period" Blacksmith shop 1890-1920 and would be happy to send some pics to you, Here's some for a tease...





Bear in mind that this park is a recreation of a logging camp, way out in the woods type. Accordingly the forge is a wood box type that could be constructed in the woods, with the available materials. It was originally a "Side Blast" forge, but has since been converted to bottom blast, without being visibly apparent.
BlackSmithBear

120# Trenton, good condition, $100.00, 2009, bought locally. $.833/Lb
278# Peter Wright, Fair condition, $350.00, 2010, 1 hr drive. &1.26/Lb
BlackSmithBear

Chris,
First, thanks for your service! Second, email me your mil address, and I'll mail you out a cross peen hammer. Good luck with the smithing, and come home safe and in one piece!
BlacksmithBear@ymail.com

Bear, US Army '67-'74

Have you given a thought to specializing in Anvil Repair? That's a beautiful job you did, and there are many of us who lack the skills to do such a job! Many of the older anvils out there could use some repairs, I know my 278 PW needs some work, but who to trust with "my baby"?

So I've been keeping an eye out for blacksmith related equipment, here's what I've collected in the past month:

The post vice is 5", pretty decent shape. Post drill has one broken gear, might use it for parts. The blower is very nice, the firepot and forge table are close to junk, unfortunately. All free from my local classified website.

The jackhammer bits were all free from Home Depot, I stopped by my local store and asked them after reading other posts here..

The hammer is 32oz and basically brand new, the file is in pretty good shape just a bit rusty. Paid $7 for the pair.

It's been a good month!

Wow...I had no idea...wonder if Mr Postman knows how valuable his book is?

http://cgi.ebay.com/Anvils-America-Signed-First-Edition-First-Printing-/320543986550?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4aa1e91376#ht_500wt_1011

Good looking PW, very low starting price!
http://cgi.ebay.com/EXCELLENT-PETER-WRIGHT-ANVIL-201-POUND-BLACKSMITH-TOOL_W0QQitemZ120578785310QQcategoryZ13869QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp4340.m8QQ_trkparmsZalgo%3DMW%26its%3DC%26itu%3DUCC%26otn%3D20%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D8045589822361353098#ht_500wt_1154

The local scrapyard owner was at my work to discuss a project that will involve him pulling out about 400 feet of railway track. When I told him I was a blacksmith, and asked if I could check out his yard, he said sure, look around and help yourself! When I went there yesterday I noticed a fair size pile of what I recognized as rifle barrels, in different degrees of completeness. I asked where they came from, already knowing the answer, as I had worked for Green Mountain Rifle Barrels in Conway, NH. I was told I could have anything that was not already drilled and rifled. Got some great drops in 3/4 to 1 1/4 dia, 18 to 24 inches long, all 4140! FREE! Also got a 1 ton chain fall that came out of the now defunct paper mill, only thing is, since I don't have a 20 foot ceiling in my shop, I have to shorten the pull chain just a bit...

I just cleaned up my recently acquired 278 Lb PW, using a wire cup brush. After that I rubbed some hydraulic oil on it. It looks like I had painted it black...amazing how the wrought iron reacts that way. So when your shoe polish wears off, lightly use a wire cup brush on it and oil her up...the oiling seems to last a long time, especially since I give my anvils a wipe down with an oily rag after a forging session.