blindviper
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Posts posted by blindviper
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6'4" all my tables are 38" - 38 1/2". It works very well for a standing height and for the bar stools I use.
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i would not go with sand if you can, i think the best would be casting lead into the thing, lots heaver and it will not settle at the bottom like sand will
Good dry sand is self compacting he might be ok. But as he said lead would be a better. You could use some small lead shot pellets. -
I like it....how much?
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You don't need much current or amps. I use a modded computer power supply at 12v it works fine. With the small of a current and amps I can stick my hands in find. Just make sure you don't have any open cuts. :)
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viper the e/r bill would overshadow the price for that bad boy! and where in the heck is this at ?
no he said pick up and you can have it didnt say how far it would have had to move :) -
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If you are going threw the trouble and expense to have it machined. I would at least put some hard facing welding rod on the face.
P.S how much was the paper weight? -
My fears were well realized then. I thought I might have similar problems just getting a thicker piece of plate. I have a 3' x 8' by 3/16's piece of steel. Fairly heavy and I laid it ontop of wooden desk. The steel I glued down with PL industrial adhesive. Unfortunately over time whilst using torches and welding I'd accidentally transferred heat into the steel top and thus created warps or seperations where it has pulled up from the glue/wood desk.
So I am curious do people usually use those granite tops to fabricate and setup or layout materials on and then get their tack welds and such in place? The more fabrication I do the more I realize having a flat surface that you can clamp to or use a square upon will be necessary.
You could get some 1/4-20 machine bolts with a counter sunk head. Drill and counter sink the holes the threw bolt the steel top too the wood. You could even drill the holes in the wood to say a 3/8 size and use a 1/4" fender washer to a allow for expansion and contraction. -
I personally would pick it up and get it for free
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Since the holes are square use a carriage bolt :)
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I used this to clean up a 75 lb columbian vise.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Electrolytic-Rust-Removal-aka-Magic/ -
I use a carbide tipped scribe, then use hit it with the soapstone.
Stopping Rust
in Anvils, Swage Blocks, and Mandrels
Posted · Edited by blindviper
You could paint the sides.
Here is the link
Here is a pdf that is more towards what you want too do anyway
http://myfreefilehosting.com/f/7f3284c696_3.24MB