bobinbama

I'm with double_edge2 - I would start with a flatter then file, sand, buff, polish to your heart's content!

I know two people that can not ware a ring to work, a welder and a police officer. Both have a ring tattooed on their finger. They ware the real ring when they can, but the tattoo is there when the real ring is not. Just remember, you can't just take the tattoo off. Always found it ironic that a police man can not ware a wedding ring on patrol but a tattoo is okay.

Thanks everyone for all your help!

Bob

Don't know if this should be in tools or not but I'll give it a go here first. Does any one here have a source for the flat sided handles for the Hofi style hammers? I've got two hammer making classes with Brian Brazeal coming up and I would love to find some good handles. Thanks

Welcome Dave! Great to have you!

How good you are at scrounging materials.... and how accessible the materials are that you need make a big difference in price. In my area if you can scrounge most everything parts could run $1000.00 If you have to buy retail for most everything $1500.00 or more.

There are several tools out there that I feel are worth endorsing and informing others of their availiability, and this, definately was one of them.

Anyone have any experience with a #30 or #35 Kerrihard hammer? This one is for sale and is in really good shape. Any thoughts on the limits of what I can work with this size hammer and / or on the hammer in general?
Thanks,
Bobinbama

Fantastic! Making me re-think my next anvil!

Very Nice! I'm looking for an old rasp now!

Absolutely Awesome!

MarkC -- splitting lengthwise about 4 1/2 inches, folding it over, shaping the shank, shaping the heal band. I weld the open side of the shank and split it with a cut off saw for the rowel.

Try contacting Bob Alexander in MO. He took over the treadle hammer plans from Clay Spencer. Check your PM's


In-Line Treadle Hammer

You didn't say what your budget was, but here are some ideas.

Shipping containers. Set a couple apart from each other and roof over the space created. Storage, workspaces in the containers.

I look forward to the day that I have something to use in the place of my #110 - HF ASO but it'll have to do for now.

Cool, nice work.

I finally got my fittings right and fired up the propane forge. Made a snake out of 5/8” re-bar and started a knife blank.

You are both correct! The hammer is a half scale Clay Spencer model built by John Wayne Taylor. Two were built, one to be acutioned at the SBA conference and the other to be auctioned at the AFC conference.

Go out and buy a copy of the Machinery's Handbook. You don't need a new one, in fact, an older edition may be preferable. There is a HUGE amount of information related to metal working, mechanics, welding, metal and alloys, processes, etc, etc. The book is not cheap but well worth the cost.

If your son will be working with you, it does not mean you will be doing the same thing at the same time, I would suggest just one work station, having helping hands is great, so area to move in is a premium with 2 people. And if no one has told you yet, most of the knife work does not revolve around the forge, but rather, the grinding and finishing area. My son and I work well together because I can be there when he is forging to assist and encourage, and he to hold things for me when I forge. I applaud your efforts, it is wonderful to have your son in the forge, and when the 1st knife is done, then the fun begins , because if he is anything like mine, oooooooo lookout!!

Hope I posted this in the right place. I've been temporarily using a post vice mounted on a drum. It is time to upgrade and I'm looking for a sturdy and moveable post vice stand design. Any pictures or ideas would be greatly appreciated.
bob

Do you have any info on where to purchase new bear traps?

BP,
I have a forge that resembles yours. I made a super sucker hood to fit just inside the angle iron edge and it works great. On yours you might need to let some of it hang over the back to give it the right dimensions. As far as putting it together goes I went to an AC duct work shop and used their Pittsburg Machine to roll the edges and make all of the connections then I used a 12” round duct connector screwed to the top to attach the chimney pipe. For outside use I would just make a 5’ or 6’ square chimney that tapers a little to make the top smaller than the bottom.
Good Luck,
bob

Hi everyone, I guess I should quit lurking and introduce myself. My name is Bob and my home is just outside of Montgomery Alabama. I