shiftless

I have made several socket bayonets for my display rifles (I display the rifle by installing the bayonet and sticking it in the ground) The easiest way I have found is to start with a bicycle top or down tube. Cut a length sufficient to form your socket (preferably as large or larger than the barrel you want to mount it on but it doesn't need to be). Locate the weld seam on the inside of the tube and cut the length of the tube eliminating the seam. File the edges of the cut so as not to mark your barrel. Cut a parallel cut to the first cut so that what remains of the tube will just fit your barrel when the tube is squeezed down on the barrel.(If your tube is too small, squeeze it down and measure the gap and cut a piece from the remaining bicycle tube to fill the gap as needed. Don't make it too tight!) If your barrel has a bayonet lug or a front sight one side of the first cut can be used for the bayonet locking slot using the bayonet lug or front sight for locking. The slot will need to be cut in a squared "Z" shape to allow the socket to turn and lock on the locking stud. To reinforce the socket a cut a thin ring of metal from the remaining bicycle tube to wrap around the base of the socket. I may have to add some metal to the ring to allow it to be bent to form a bridge for the lug/ front sight to go under sliding in the locking slot. I generally take a file and bevel the forward edge of the ring for appearance purposes. You my want to add a second ring to serve as a support for a locking band to keep the bayonet from sliding down the barrel when the bayonet is withdrawn from it's target. Locking band and second ring were not found on older bayonets. I use a wire welder to weld the cut in the tube where it is not required for the locking slot and to secure the ring(s) to the bayonet socket. The bayonet itself is easy. find a "T" post made of as thin a steel as possible and grind the edges of the "T" until they reachg a point. (preferably find a "T" post that does not have knuckles!) Bend an electric fence post to for a 90 degree corner and cut the bend off. Put the socket on the musket in the locked position and mark a spot on the hammer side of the action about half way between the ramrod side and the front sight side and about half way between the front of the locking slot and the front of the socket. This is where you weld one end of the 90 degree corner and the other end is welded to the Pointed "T" post. I use a chain saw file and a dremel to make my welds "flow" into the connected parts and to cut the locking slots. I heat blue my finished product with a propane torch. Early military guns were issued in the "white" and kept that way by rubbing the serface of the guns with the bayonets. The shiny guns and bayonets along with the tall hats that were popular about the time of the Revolution was an early attempt at psych-ops. The sun's reflection off those guns and the tall appearance of the marching troops must have been terrifying! I know the people on this forum are more interested in making a proper, forged bayonet and I salute them for it. My way is quick and dirty and it works for me. I have recently been gifted a home made forge and may try to make things like you artisans but I'm a long way from making anything I'd care to show anyone.