PNW_Sparky

The only caution I would have when using the POR15 high temp paint is to follow the instructions exactly as they are written. You should use their metal etch product and cure the paint as per the instructions before exposing the parts to full temp. I used a combination of an outdoor wood stove, a Mr Buddy heater, and a campfire, to cure the various pieces which if I recall correctly was 2 to 300° for an hour.

For what it's worth, I started with electrolysis, because that's how I restore my cast iron pans too. But soon I realized that my parts were so rusted it was going to take forever. 

Try submerging the rusted fastener in evaporust if able to do so. I have found that it breaks down some of the rust in the threads and really helps removing stuck nuts and bolts. The problem is that sometimes you have to get creative on what type of container to use on large or awkward parts.

Shainarue, your forge pan looks very similar to mine that I just got done restoring. What model number is yours?

BTW I highly recommend POR15's high temp paint. I had the first fire in this thing recently and it held up great. I even painted the inside of the fire pot just as an experiment. Surprisingly it did not burn off.

Have you checked with McMaster Carr? They have all kinds of stuff. 

Look up my post on the buffalo forge restoration. I used a furnace draft inducer blower with similar specs. It works great, except I have to keep the draft gate almost all the way closed or it will blow the coke out of the fire pot. I am going to wire in a speed controller for it soon. 

Yeah, a good of some type is probably coming the the future. I'd like to build something that captures the smoke and sends it back through the blower, similar to how some buffalo forges were sold. 

Picked up this old Buffalo forge a couple months ago, it was in rough shape. I snapped off every fastener except the set screws for the legs. I removed the rust from all the parts with a combination of evaporust, electrolysis and mechanical methods. I then coated it all in POR15 high temp paint, which by the way, I am extremely impressed with. The wheelbarrow handles I made from Alaskan yellow cedar. I used that material due to the rot resistance and strength.

The tuyure had a piece broken off at the flange where it connects to the fire pot. I fabricated a "repair flange" with a sleeve that went down into the tuyure a couple inches. This allowed me to build up weld on the areas missing material. Finally fired her up today for the first time.

Thanks frosty, I am pretty excited about the post vise. I have the small parts soaking in evaporust right now. I have never used it before, figured I would give it a try.

I did some research and ran across the same article about chas parker. Pretty interesting. I wasn't looking for a bench vise as I already have a big Morgan, but for $40 I couldn't say no. This parker weighs 105lbs and dwarfs my Morgan no. 40.

Finally found a good deal on a post vise. Been looking for a few months, but around here, people regularly ask 2-300 for a beat up 4" vise that is usually missing parts. I found this iron city vise for $60 about an hour drive from home. Soon as the add popped up I jumped on it. Turns out the guy I bought from does stock removal knives and didn't have a use for it. When I got it, it was covered in rust and seized up tight. I started cleaning it up today, and it works great and all the parts are accounted for.

Bonus pic of the chas parker 975 I picked up at a garage sale the day prior for $40. 

Micheal, do you know what CFM your set up is?

Thanks for the info frosty. I definitely plan to use it. I think I am going to use the POR15 high temp paint on it after I run all the parts through my electrolysis tank. 

Can any of you find gents recommend to me a common item that can be jerry-rigged into an acceptable forge blower? Other than a hair dryer of course. I have an old Buffalo forge that is missing the blower, I would like to locate a period correct hand crank blower for it, but in the meantime I would like to be able to just get it working. I was thinking something along the lines of a 120 volt electric leaf blower or possibly a vacuum cleaner motor. 

I recently acquired a buffalo model 240-h forge. I have looked through all the various catalogs for Buffalo that are available on the internet and so far I have yet to find one with that model number. I will be restoring this unit, so I'd like to find an original catalog page or sales brochure that shows what the forge would have looked like in its original configuration. Hoping one of you experts can help me out. Thanks.

On 11/11/2016 at 12:33 AM, Pac said:

 

 

It looks like the one in this picture 

Ring is loud and clear, rebound seems good. Havent had a chance to test it out yet. 

Finally picked up a London pattern anvil to replace my ASO. I believe this 164lb anvil is a Trenton based on the serial number format and general shape. However, it is missing the logo. Can anyone confirm my suspicions? Also curious what members think this is worth per pound based on the condition. Thanks!