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I Forge Iron

JeremyP

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Posts posted by JeremyP

  1. Yes indeed, thanks mike! Thanks everyone, this helped me a lot in getting my rusty gears of creativity going! I'm grabbing some material today for it so I'll be making a few prototypes to see what Im actually capable of doing outside of my various sketches lol.

  2. Yea my main concern with the legs is that they appear in proportion to the table top (door). its 75" long x 35" wide and 2" thick
    Unfortunatly, with the way the office is layed out, I'm pretty much stuck with a straight up and down leg but I plan to gusset the corners with some scrolling. Another thought came to me though. How do you think four 1" square tubings forge welded together would look?

  3. Hey guys, well I finally got my first request in for a mostly forged piece! Its going to be a gift for the wifes best friend and she wants some wrought iron looking legs to attach to her church door-come desk top. She plans to ceramic tile the top of it so its going to end up fairly heavy and I'm wondering how beefy i should go with my legs so it remains sturdy. I plan to use square stock going straight down with a midway twist and forged footings on the bottom. My original plan is to forge 4, 5/8 or 3/4 square stock in a bundle to give it a substantial look while still being able to produce an attractive twist on it. However 1.5" of solid square will make those legs quite heavy. So my new thought is to maybe use 2"x1/2" flat bar for legs, then again those will be some heavy legs. Does anyone have any ideas how I can make twisted square legs in a better way?


    Thanks!

  4. 6011 is definatly an improper rod to be welding cast to steel. Like previously stated a stainless rod with lots of nickel alloyed in it will be much more successful for you. You can buy small packages of 'nirod' or 'tricast' smaw electrode at welding supply stores easily. Most salesmen will be able to help you choose a rod that will work if you ask, since each company uses different trade names for their products. If you have access to a torch and brazing rod you can also braze it which can be just as effective as long as everything is super CLEAN. Good luck!

  5. How big is your anvil? why not simply stick weld the hardface onto your anvil? I think you might have better luck that way whereas tig welding a hard material to mild steel might result in spalling (the hard surface peeling or chipping off) while a hardsurface stick electrode I think will dilute into the mild steel to larger degree and prevent spalling. You can produce a 60-65 RC with hardfacing rod which is actually harder than most anvil faces (50-55RC)

  6. Fabricating is the cheapest simplest way to build most things. Casting is good if you want a lot of the exact same thing. but to build a casting mold, work out all the bugs in your design and to build the provisions to actually be able to cast your metal is both labourous and expensive compared to the relativly cheap tools needed to cut form and weld aluminum (or steel) by hand.

  7. Hey guys well I googled champion blower and forge co and came up with a person who is selling a cataloge of products they used to make where one could probably determine the approx year my style of forge was built. However its $30. Yea its nice to know the history of some of this old iron. I fired it up the other day and I was surprised how much that blower puts out. The pan doesn't say anything about lining it with clay for use but do you think I should line it anyway?

  8. I just found a coal forge at an auction the other day, paid a premium for it because something told me to get it. I'm curious if there is a way to tell the approx age of this piece? It has a champion No. 40 gear blower and the pan is cast iron. The pan has a bit of pitting in it but no cracks, it either looks fairly new or only moderatly used. The blower still turns nice and the gears are in really good shape. here are some pics! :D

    15333.attach

    15334.attach

  9. Yes, my bad, my fingers got away with me!;)
    Also, I think the tungsten ichudov may be referring to is Tungsten Carbide, that you can TIG, as applying it to saw blade teeth for an example. Not quite the same stuff as what is coming out of the lamps that Sam has.


    I dont believe so. I've only seen tungsten carbide being brazed on to the tool base.
  10. I agree that he's asking way too much for that damaged piece. I wouldnt be surprised if he sold it though. Anvils are going for big bux lately it seems. I was just at a local farm auction, a peter wright 80lber, which wasn't in very good shape sold for $500!
    Another chap on kijiji near me is trying to sell his 142 lber which was chiseled heck on the soft face, and he wants 1300!

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